Go to the Pushkin Mountains? It's very simple! Trip to the Pushkin Mountains.

Features of the place

Pushkin Mountains is not a single village or town, it is a large (in every sense) museum-reserve, which includes three estates and several more memorable places. All these attractions are separated in space by about 10-12 kilometers, so you need to be prepared in advance either for long walks, or stock up on personal transport: a car or at least a bicycle.

At the scientific and cultural center you can purchase a pass to the reserve’s parking lots, this will save time and effort for walking around the estates themselves. This is especially true for Mikhailovsky. In 2016, the pass cost 200 rubles. for any period.

What to see first

If this is your first time in the Pushkin Mountains, then you need to see the following:

1. - Pushkin's estate
2. Trigorskoye Estate - the estate of Pushkin's friends, the Osipovs-Wulf
3. Savkina Hill
4. Voronich settlement
5. Svyatogorsk Monastery with the necropolis of the Pushkins and Hannibals

If this is not your first time here

In addition to the places described above, there are many interesting things in Pushkinogorye that are worth visiting if this is not your first time here or if you plan to spend several days here:

1. “Pushkin Village” and water mill in Bugrovo
2. Velje settlement
3. Vrev settlement
4. House-Museum of Sergei Dovlatov
5. Petting zoo "Zoograd"

High points and observation decks

There are several high points in the reserve.

• In Mikhailovsky there is an exit from the main house of the estate to the river - from there there is a view of Sorot.
• On Savkina Hill there is a view of Mikhailovskoye in the distance and the same Sorot.
• At the Voronich settlement - views of the surrounding area from above.

Museums

Working expositions:

• Mikhailovskoye Estate Museum
• Trigorskoe Estate Museum
• Petrovskoye Estate Museum
• "Pushkin Village" Bugrovo
• House-Museum of S. Dovlatov in Berezina
• Scientific and cultural center in the Pushkin Mountains
• "Zoograd" - ornithological nursery "Argus" in the Pushkin Mountains

Neighborhood

Around the Pushkin Mountains there is a whole necklace of ancient cities: Ostrov, Opochka, Novorzhev. Unfortunately, in terms of monuments, only the Island is of interest, where an ancient cathedral, a wonderful stone bridge, and many ancient buildings have been preserved.

When is the best time to go

Pushkin was absolutely right in not liking summer in the village. The reason for this is not only the heat, but also the abundance of horseflies and mosquitoes, from which it is impossible to escape from these wet lake regions. That's why best time for a trip to the Pushkin Mountains it is, of course, autumn. In the spring, you run the risk of river flooding, although the spring Pushkin Hills are very beautiful. In winter, you won’t have enough daylight hours to explore all the sights, so it’s best to come here for a few days.

Routes to explore the reserve

We should start with Mikhailovsky. Of course, first of all people come here for the Mikhailovskoye estate. Be prepared for the fact that only a copy of the main house of the estate has long been left - it burned down and was rebuilt more than once, and the Great Patriotic War dealt him the most serious damage. Only the stone “nanny’s house” survived - this is the original one. And, of course, the groves, the river, and all the nature surrounding Pushkin remained authentic - no war could destroy them.

After visiting the estate, if you have the strength and the weather permits, take a walk (but be prepared - about 2 km one way) to Savkina Hill, to Pushkin’s favorite place here. If you don’t have the strength, you can drive up to Savkina Gorka from Bugrovo, on the way visiting Bugrovo itself with a water mill, which Pushkin mentioned more than once in his works, and the “Pushkin Village” museum, where the village was restored from the time of the first half of the 19th century century.

There, for lovers of not only Pushkin, but also literature in general, there is private museum Sergei Dovlatov in the village of Berezino, set up in the house where the writer lived when he worked as a guide in the reserve.

Next - to the Svyatogorsk Monastery, where Pushkin and his parents (as well as other family members) are buried. This monastery is remarkable not only for the necropolis of the Pushkins and Hannibals, but also for its antiquity. It is located in the village of Pushkinskiye Gory. All the roads of the reserve diverge from here.

From him - to Trigorskoye - “the Larins’ estate”, as it is called in connection with “Eugene Onegin”. Besides the fact that this estate really became famous literary prototype, it also belonged to Pushkin’s close friends, with whom he had many years of warm relations. Near the estate there is the Voronich settlement with ancient ramparts and an ancient temple. The most famous director of the reserve, S.S. Geichenko, is buried at the site. You can only get to the Voronich settlement by going around it, turning right at the estate gate along a dirt road. There is no passage directly from the estate; more precisely, it is a very steep path through a ravine, not for everyone.

If you have more than one or two days left, you can get to the fortifications of Velje and Vrev. And for tourists with children, “Zoograd” in the Pushkin Mountains may be of interest - a large petting zoo.

How to get there and what to see along the way

From Moscow to the center of the Pushkin Mountains - 640 km. The shortest and natural way- take the M9 to Velikiye Luki, then through Velikiye Luki itself - Loknya - Bezhanitsy and Novorzhev. In the center of Bezhanitsy, by the way, there is a good restaurant with convenient parking. If 640 km seems too long (for example, when traveling with children), you can stop in Toropets. This will complement the trip with a gorgeous day in an amazing ancient Russian city, but will add 40 km to the route. If you are not afraid of the extra 60 km of dirt road, then between Velikiye Luki and Loknya you can follow the sign in the village of Priskukha to the memorial erected on the site of the feat of Alexander Matrosov.

It’s closer to travel from St. Petersburg - 400 km. The M20 road goes through Gatchina - Luga - Pskov - Ostrov (also very interesting city with an ancient temple on an island in the center). But in the village of Ludoni you can turn to Porkhov (there is also something to see there), and then, before reaching Bezhanitsy, turn to Novorzhev and Pushkinskie Gory. It is only 40 km further, but there is practically no traffic (which cannot be said about the M20).

How to choose a hotel

In the Pushkin Mountains last years Several private hotels opened, to suit different budgets and different needs. In the center of the village of Pushkinskiye Gory there is the Druzhba Hotel, a Soviet-built building. In Bugrovo - hotel "Arina R." with private rooms and cottages. There is the Altun Estate Hotel, stylized as a Russian estate. You can find private cottages that are rented out entirely and are suitable for a large group.

The most interesting thing, according to the authors, is to stay in guest houses in the estate museums themselves - Mikhailovsky and Petrovsky. Rooms in Mikhailovsky are expensive - around 6,000 rubles. per room, but in the Petrovskoye guest house - only 2000 rubles.

Where to eat: review of cafes and restaurants

When it comes to food in the Pushkin Mountains, everything is uneven. Large hotels have restaurants. In the village there is a restaurant “U Lukomorya”, quite Soviet type. Cafes at museums are sometimes open, sometimes closed at seemingly announced times. work time. The quality of service and prepared dishes often causes complaints from visitors.

Therefore, it is best to stock up on your own food. In guest houses at museums and in cottages there are kitchens where everything can be heated or cooked, so as not to depend on catering outlets. In the village of Pushkinskie Gory, near the scientific and cultural center, there is a quite decent Magnit supermarket, where you can buy everything; after turning onto Mikhailovskoye, there is also a “Pyaterochka” in the village.

Places you need to know: choosing souvenirs

Souvenirs in the Pushkin Mountains are sold at the museum's ticket office - at the central ticket office in the village of Pushkin Mountains and at all estates. This is enough standard set magnets, bells, but there are also interesting crafts, for example, made from birch bark. There is also a wonderful souvenir treat sold at the Svyatogorsk Monastery - a very tasty and healthy Stolbushinsky sbiten, which is prepared here using various herbs and spices.

In the last article we talked no longer about the Pushkin Mountains Museum-Reserve itself, but about the Dovlatov House-Museum. It turned out to be a slightly emotional and practically useless story from a practical point of view. In this article I will try to fill this gap, although the emotions from the natural beauties I see are literally overwhelming.

How to get there

As noted in the previous article, Pushkin Mountains is not a large regional center or even a city, but an urban-type settlement with a population of just under five thousand people. Travel experience in Russia shows that getting to such places without a car (and sometimes even by car) can be very difficult. And the Pushkin Mountains, despite all the popularity of this destination among tourists, is no exception. So, if you are the owner of your own car, then the trip will not be difficult: from Moscow it’s about 670 km (a little over 7 hours of travel) along the repaired M9 highway, for residents of St. Petersburg it takes less than 5 hours (400 km), and for residents or For guests of Pskov, the journey is even shorter – 115 km, which means you can get there in a couple of hours. You can buy a ready-made tour. True, for example, when preparing this article, I was unable to find a tour only to the Pushkin Mountains. There is an application to Pskov and the surrounding area, but the choice is not too large and the prices are not too humane. I still managed to find one option, but more on that at the end of the article.

By bus from Moscow

The situation with public transport turned out to be (although there were suspicions that everything was not simple) extremely confusing. Railways does not pass through the Pushkin Mountains, and, of course, there are no airports here either. The only thing left is the bus. First, let's look at route options from Moscow to the Pushkin Mountains. On the website of the Mikhailovskoye Museum-Reserve there is a section “How to get there”, but there is no specifics, only a link to the Yandex Schedules service, where the route Moscow - Pushkin Mountains is absent in principle.

However, there is a viable option to take a bus to Opochka (there are many flights, the journey will take about 12 hours), from where the Pushkin Mountains are within easy reach - 38 km. and the easiest way to get here is by taxi, since there are no direct routes from Opochka to the Pushkin Mountains.

If a taxi is not suitable, then you can get from Opochka to the village. Novgorodki and from there to the Pushkin Mountains, but this is a very difficult and long maneuver.

By plane or train from Moscow

The first and fastest is to fly to Pskov by plane and then by bus to the Pushkin Mountains. To the flight time (2 hours 15 minutes) and the travel time from the Pskov bus station (2 hours 25 minutes), you need to add the time it takes to get from home to the airport in Moscow and the time from the Pskov airport to the bus station. As a result, we get about 8 hours of travel, which is quite comparable to what it will take to travel if you travel by your own car. True, the price of such a trip is not the cheapest.

Schedule and bus tickets from Pskov to Pushkinskiye Gory. Accordingly, a plane can be replaced by a bus - it will be much cheaper, but the travel time will take three times longer.

However, the most optimal route seems to be the “railroad” route: by train from Moscow to Velikiye Luki and then by bus to the Pushkin Mountains. Here the price turns out to be humane and night Train- it's comfortable.

St. Petersburg – Pushkin Mountains – St. Petersburg

With the route from St. Petersburg, everything is a little simpler and a little faster. There are only two options: train and bus or just the bus. That is, we choose the mode of transport and or just the bus. I would choose the bus route. It’s almost an hour shorter, but somehow calmer.

Where to stay

In this case, it is worth considering that the Pushkin Mountains were not a city, but an urban-type settlement and nearby large settlements No. That is, the Museum-Reserve together with the village is such a fairly isolated territory, formed several decades ago with an infrastructure that has already developed over the years. However, in Lately and mini-hotels and guest houses and apartments appeared here. The popular accommodation booking site booking.com provides 10 hotel options in the Pushkin Mountains. From the so-called Soviet times to the present day, the “Druzhba” hotel and the “Pushkinogorye” holiday home have been operating. From the more modern: Literary Hotel Arina R. (this is not a cheap, but very comfortable hotel, located in the heart of the Pushkin Mountains reserve), Guest House “Kamenets” (the main advantage is the view of the lake), Country House “Nest” ( You can take your pet here and organize a barbecue outdoors in the evening). For ourselves, we chose an apartment on Lenin Street (in other words, an ordinary city apartment) with two bedrooms and a kitchen and did not regret our choice at all. Clean, tidy, newly renovated, wi-fi, pleasant hosts, you can leave your car right under the window of the house.

Here on this map you can explore the infrastructure of the Pushkin Mountains, it shows hotels and cafes and parking areas (click on the map to enlarge).

Where to eat

There should not be any special problems with food in the reserve. There are fast foods, but not traditional ones major cities, but with local flavor, where you can buy pies, tea and ice cream and there are places for a more substantial meal. In the village of Pushkinskiye Gory there are four of them: Vityaz (Pushkinskaya St., 11); Lukomorye (Lenin St., 8); Svyatogor (Lenina St., 2, there is also a parking lot for tourist buses and the aforementioned pirozhki shops); Happy cuttlefish (Lermontov str., 3). Near the estates there is also one cafe: Berezka in Mikhailovskoye, Petrovskoye, respectively, in Petrovskoye and Trigorskoye, “unexpectedly” it turns out to be in Trigorskoye and the Korzinka cafe in Bugrovo. The most famous restaurant of all is Lukomorye, and the best according to reviews on TripAdvisor is Korzinka.

Excursions to the Pushkin Mountains Nature Reserve

It is clear that if you buy a ready-made tour, the trip organizer, as a rule, provides you with everything you need - from accommodation and food to an excursion program. If you have chosen the independent option of visiting the Pushkin Mountains, then there should be no problems with excursions either. Each museum has a tour desk where you can purchase tickets for an independent tour of the exhibition or purchase tickets that include an excursion program. Guides in the reserve are, as a rule, fans of their work, knowledgeable about the subject and history specialists. As promised, I will also give a link to the supplier of excursions to the Pushkin Mountains. This is one of the most profitable options, although departure only from Pskov.

The Pushkinsky Nature Reserve near Pskov is a very vast territory, because various museums and monuments are located at a distance of 3-5 kilometers from each other and from the village of Pushkin Mountains. The situation with public transport here is not easy: buses and minibuses run rarely and their schedule cannot be checked on the Internet. Driving in your own car eliminates these problems and allows you to see the most interesting things. True, if you are planning to visit the Pushkin Mountains, it hardly makes sense to specifically go here from Moscow for just a day; it is better to stay for the weekend and thoroughly explore the surrounding area. But if you are passing through these parts or have arrived in Pskov and are ready to devote a day to the reserve, our route will help you get your bearings.

When is the best time to go to the Pushkin Mountains

The ideal time to visit the Pushkin Nature Reserve is, of course, summer, when the landscapes here are pleasing to the eye, all the museums are open, and all the cafes are open. True, there are a lot of tourists in the summer. At the beginning of autumn, these places are also pleasant and picturesque. It’s beautiful here even in winter, but you won’t be able to take a thorough walk around the surrounding area; you’ll have to limit yourself to museums. The main thing: do not come here in April and November, because during these months museums and parks are closed for sanitary maintenance! It is best to check the current schedule on the website of the museum-reserve.

Parking and passes

Even a car will not save you from the need to take long walks: access to the museum-reserves themselves by car is prohibited, you will have to leave it in the parking lot - at a fairly large distance from the estate houses. But this should not scare you: after all, the beautiful surroundings of the estates are no less important for tourists than the house-museums of Pushkin and his neighbors themselves.

To get to the parking lots in front of the estates, you need to Pushkinskiye Gory visit the Scientific and Cultural Center museum-reserve on Novorzhevskaya Street, 21 and buy a pass for 200 rubles. Such a pass can be sold at the box office of museums and even in the souvenir shop near the Svyatogor cafe. However, the pass does not make life much easier: without it you can get to all the estates and leave the car on the side of the road in front of the barriers, and not in the parking lots behind them. There is also a free official parking lot “At Three Pines”, which you can drive into from the village of Voronich - it is located 1.5 kilometers from Mikhailovsky and a kilometer from Trigorsky. And the most picturesque road to Mikhailovskoye is still a walking path through the forest from Bugrov, and not a path along the highway to a paid parking lot.

Two ways to Mikhailovskoye

Most likely you will arrive to Pushkinskiye Gory from Pskov along the P-23 highway through Ostrov, turning left in the Novgorodka area. The journey will take approximately 2 hours. Motorists are better off starting the tour with a visit to the estate museums, and Svyatogorsk Monastery leave with Pushkin’s grave for the evening - after all, museums close to visitors earlier than the monastery territory. True, if you want to end your trip in Trigorskoye, perhaps it will be easier for you to immediately get on the road towards Pskov without returning to the center of the Pushkin Mountains. In this case, visit the Svyatogorsk Monastery immediately.

The first and most important estate for tourists is, of course, Mikhailovskoe.

But before you visit it, you have to decide which path to Mikhailovskoye to take: short and simple or long and picturesque? In the first case, leave Pushkinskie Gory along Lenin Street and follow the road towards Petrovskoye until you reach the checkpoint at the entrance to Mikhailovskoye. Here you can leave your car in the parking lot and walk 500 meters to the estate through the “Holiday Glade”.

The second travel option: move along Lenin Street until the turn to the camp site, and then at the fork in front of Lugovka turn right - to Bugrovo. Here you will have to leave your car in the parking lot, after which you can visit the museum " Pushkin village"and wooden mill(this makes sense if you have children with you) or immediately go through the forest to Mikhailovskoye. There is approximately 3 kilometers to go. If you choose this route option, your visit to Mikhailovskoye will impress you much more, but then you will have to return for a long time to the car to go to other estates. But if you want to limit yourself to Mikhailovsky and Pushkin Village in Bugrovo, this option is ideal.

Turn to Dovlatov

When you arrive in Bugrovo, you don’t have to leave your car right away: you can take the fork near the hotel “ Arina R.» turn right onto the dirt road and drive to neighboring village Berezino to visit house-museum of Sergei Dovlatov. True, it is best to arrange an excursion with the museum staff in advance - they are very interesting.

For other estates

After walking through the park in Mikhailovsky and visiting the manor house, you can return to the car and continue the journey. If you left your car parked next to the road on Petrovskoe, it is logical to drive further, to this quiet estate, which belonged to the descendants of the second son of Abram Hannibal, that is, Pushkin’s maternal relatives. It is very calm here, there are far fewer tourists and it is nice to walk through the old park with a grotto gazebo.

But more often tourists seek to see the estate of Pushkin’s neighbors and friends, the Osipov-Wulfs – Trigorskoe. It’s more convenient to get here from Bugrov: return to the fork where you turned right and go straight to Lugovka. After Lugovka you need to turn left onto Voronich and leave the car in the parking lot near Voronich settlement to walk past it to the estate. However, if you want to get closer to the Trigorskoye estate, you can drive here from Pushkinskiye Gory along the Pushkinogorskoye highway through the village of Sharobyki - the road will lead you to a parking lot not far from the main estate house.

After the estate, you can either take the road towards Pskov, or return to the Pushkin Mountains to visit the Svyatogorsk Monastery and lay flowers on Pushkin’s grave.

Children's route

If you have small children with you, it’s worth thinking about how to diversify the program so that they don’t get tired of visiting several estates. You shouldn’t take your kids on excursions to manor houses, but you can take a stroll through Mikhailovsky Park, where there are many interesting objects: turf benches, bridges, picturesque barns. Children usually also like “Pushkin Village” with a mill in Bugrovo. In addition, you can stop by the eco-park " Zoograd“- from Pushkinskaya Street, which leads to Trigorskoye, you need to turn onto Zapadnaya Street and from there turn right, towards the zoo. The eco-park contains mainly animals that were mentioned in Pushkin’s poems or are somehow thematically connected with him - for example, native to Africa. At the same time, the pets were mostly chosen as sick or crippled and could not survive in natural conditions, but here they feel great, many of them are kept in open enclosures or even roam freely around the territory, children are allowed to feed and pet them. So a visit to the park leaves a very pleasant impression on children and adults.

On the other edge of the village, on Sovkhoznaya Street, there is an apiary " Bee Manor", or rather, not the apiary itself, but the beekeeping museum, where visitors are interested in being told about the history of honey fishing and tasting honey. For an additional fee, you can organize a tea party with pies here, so this place, although not a must-see, is also quite interesting.

Where to eat in Pushkinskiye Gory

There are not many places to eat in the village and surrounding area.

• In the Pushkin Mountains themselves you can dine in restaurants " Svyatogor" And " Lukomorye"on Lenin Street. But you shouldn’t expect any special culinary delights or interesting ambience from these establishments - these are ordinary provincial cafes, perhaps with some pretension to pathos.
• A little better cafe " Basket» at the hotel “Arina R.” in Bugrovo, but it’s not cheap.
• In Mikhailovsky in the summer there is a cafe " Birch» near Prazdnichnaya Polyana with a very modest assortment.
• At the entrance to Petrovsky there is a cafe " Petrovskoe» whose terrace offers a picturesque view of the surrounding area, but it is also open only in the warm season.

I entitled this article with lines from a poem by A.S. Pushkin, which he wrote in the album of Praskovya Aleksandrovna Osipova-Wulf in Trigorskoye, before leaving Mikhailovskoye for the capital on August 17, 1817. This is how I begin my report on an independent road trip from Moscow to the Pskov region.
We were not going to Pskov at all in July 2014, when the city celebrated “the day, and the century, and one hundred centuries of its history” (c). We ended up there not thanks to, but in spite of. They canceled with sweat and blood and decided to go not to luxurious and crowded St. Petersburg, but to calm ancient Pskov. The reason for this was personal preferences, let’s leave them outside the scope of this presentation. Here we will outline the travel route and list the main attractions of Pskov and the Pskov region, which we managed to cover during a six-day trip from Moscow to Pskov by car.

Travel time frame: July 23 – 28, 2014.
Crew: Head of the Expedition and Flight Journalist. V.A. Navigator sadly stayed at home this time due to his very imported brains. We were accompanied by Her Imperial Majesty Map of the Pskov region and a diagram of Pskov.
Route sheet:

Departure from Moscow at 6.30 along the highway. Details about the condition of the route and the availability of infrastructure. In a nutshell, the road is good, sometimes ideal. The infrastructure is there. Not the German Autobahn, but not in Russia either, this is one of the best roads on which our wheels rolled.

At 7.50 we passed Volokolamsk, where the highway ends.

At 455 km, a fox was allowed to cross the highway without permission. She did not warn about her actions and did not order a photo session. Alas.
We turned onto Velikiye Luki, walked through the city and reached the road Velikiye Luki - Pushkinskie Gory at 12.30.

The road to Pushgory is quite edible, close to good. In some places the coating is completely fresh, in others it is new, very decent; in a few areas it shakes, but not critically and not for long.


There are few villages in the Tver and Pskov regions on the highway, and almost every one has storks!


I even took one, sitting on the ridge of the roof, as a decoration - he sat on the ridge like a picture. We wanted to film each of them, and we were significantly successful in this matter.

Seeing a noble estate on a high hill, they could not help but turn at the sign that was specially placed to disorient visitors.

We spun around on the sandy dirt road, cursed, got upset at the inability to get closer to the palace, returned to the road and turned at the next turn, in the village of Bezhanitsy.

We drove a few tens of meters and left the car in the shady park of the Philosophers' estate.

They didn’t go inside, although there was an opportunity, they hurried to Alexander Sergeevich.
In Novorzhev they paid their respects to Mother Catherine Alekseevna.

Trip to Pushgory. Svyatogorsk Monastery

At 15.15 we left the car in the parking lot at the scientific and excursion center of the Pushkin Mountains museum-reserve, reminiscent of the Palace of Congresses.

Reconnaissance revealed the impossibility of individual excursion services for two impudent Moscow mugs, but the opportunity to join scheduled excursions in groups. The indicated faces received this information with great joy. For 200 rubles we bought a parking permit for a day in all museums of the reserve and immediately paid our modest respects to the grave of the Great Poet.

We went into the monastery cathedral.

And we went for a walk in Trigorsky Park.

Trip to Pushgory. Trigorskoe. Walk in the park

Here the weaker half of the crew immediately began to strive for knowledge. It is reasonable to say that the next day three excursions in a row “will be too much.” But she humbly obeyed her husband’s “tsits” and looked with pleasure at the bench, where her literary namesake listened to her lover’s harsh sentence.

I walked along the alley named after her.

And she peeled off all the delicious, aromatic Trigorsky raspberries that grow untouched near the parking lot of the Trigorsky estate.
The day ended with checking into a room at the Pushkin Mountains tourist center with food and libations in the tourist center’s cafe.


The room is quite acceptable, the cafe is worthy of all praise.

Day 2. July 24, Thursday. Pushkin Mountains – Mikhailovskoye – Petrovskoye – Trigorskoye – Pskov. Trip to Pushgory

Mikhailovskoye Estate

We decided to start the day with a tour of Mikhailovsky. The purchased parking pass gives the right to enter the security zone museums. From the parking lot to the museum you need to follow the signs


across the field.

We arrived half an hour before the museum opened and walked around the empty park.

The first tour of the house-museum starts at 10.30. Initially, we planned to listen to our colleagues both in the house and in the park. But the kind museum manager, although she tried with all her heart to please her colleagues, honestly admitted that the bureau’s capabilities are very meager, the groups come in a continuous stream, all the guides are in great demand. At first we were upset, but when we entered the shady coolness of the park we became such a tasty prey for different types bloodsuckers that abandoned the original idea and decided to be content with the interior premises.

Looking ahead, I will say that if you visit all three estates (Mikhailovskoye, Petrovskoye, Trigorskoye), then there simply won’t be enough time for excursions around the parks. The excursion to Mikhailovsky is held in the house-museum,

in the outbuilding

and in the bathhouse, also known as the “nanny’s house.”

It takes about fifty minutes. After immersing ourselves in the life of the poet in Mikhailovsky, we could not deny ourselves the pleasure of wandering around the vast manor park again.

After Mikhailovskoye we went to Petrovskoye.

Trip to Pushgory. Petrovskoe

It’s a 300-meter walk from the parking lot to the estate. I can’t say for sure, but it looks like there are excursions there every hour. Luckily for us, a tired colleague was late and we managed to join the 13-hour session. It includes a visit to the house of Abram Petrovich

and the houses of Peter Abramovich Hannibals.

They didn’t miss the park either, although it is not as extensive as in Mikhailovsky and Trigorsky.

An attempt to take a lunch break was unsuccessful. The restaurant at the Druzhba Hotel did not promise to provide quick food. We gave a tip to the Svyatogor cafe. There, too, there was no chef in charge and we were honestly warned that we would have to wait 20 minutes until the chef took our order. Having not eaten too much, we went to Trigorskoye.

Trip to Pushgory. Trigorskoe. Excursion

There is no clear schedule of excursions in the Osipov-Wulf house; apparently, it is compiled daily depending on the flow of visitors. We were lucky again - there were no more than 15 minutes left before the next one started.

In Trigorskoye we received double pleasure. Firstly, from the opportunity to plunge into the life of Alexander Sergeevich’s owner and friend Praskovya Aleksandrovna Osipova-Wulf and her children.

Secondly, from the work of an employee of the Maria Museum. If there are any brilliant tour guides in the world, it’s her! On this day we assessed and compared the work of our colleagues. In Mikhailovsky they told us competently, interestingly, methodically correctly, slowly, with dignity. And without emotions. In Petrovsky - interestingly, but quickly, without pauses, chattering away the memorized text, at times with an expression like a good student imitating the intonation of a teacher.

In Trigorskoye it seemed as if Praskovya Alexandrovna herself was meeting us. And he tells us about the poet’s pranks, his relationships with Trigorsky’s household. It was a performance small performance one actor. She even thought out her outfit to the smallest detail. Not a modern skirt or trousers, but a dress. Plain, long. Hardly appropriate for the street - a little old-fashioned, but not pretentious, hardly appropriate for the era early XIX century, only vaguely reminiscent of the fashion of those days, but emotionally creating the atmosphere of estate life. With her appearance, she seemed to introduce her into the world of Pushkin’s era. And she told, or rather played, brilliantly! Fortunately, a photograph has been preserved where our “Praskovya Alexandrovna” accidentally got into the frame!

Many modern actresses should learn from her. And, even more so, for tour guides.

Trip to Pushgory. Household

After such pleasure, I didn’t want to immediately get into a stuffy car and solve the prosaic issues of satisfying my hunger. We still wandered around the park, stretching out the pleasure of what we saw and heard.

But hunger is not Praskovya Alexandrovna. We returned to the cafe, where the first and, thank God, the last disappointment of this trip awaited us. Not from the kitchen. There are no complaints about her. Both the interior of the cafe and the dining courtyard are very pleasant.

Here we were frankly shortchanged. We received a handwritten bill with the total amount - 922 rubles. Usually, we do not check the total amount. But in this case she aroused suspicion. Having performed simple mathematical operations in our heads, we came to another figure - 802 rubles.

I really didn’t want to make a scandal. We raked out change from our pockets and put in exactly as much as the waiter had indicated. Perhaps he earned 20 rubles more. With a bill of 802 rubles, we, out of habit, would have paid 900 for the cuisine and service we liked. But he greatly tarnished the reputation of this establishment. My hands are begging to write an article with the title: “Cafe “Svyatogor” in the Pushkin Mountains. Be careful, cheating!”

We set off on the road at 18.15.
A little upset, we silently drive to Pskov, at about 19.50 we park at the hotel. Still, it was impossible to avoid swearing that day. We are peacefully waiting for our turn when checking into “Rizhskaya”. But a boorish mug gets in front of us and discusses paying for parking with the administrator. The Head of the Expedition could not stand it. He barked at his face. The administrator caught herself and switched her attention from her muzzle to us. The boss was already a little nervous, he didn’t behave in the best possible way. For which I received a good moral slap in the face from the Flight Journalist. And an excellent corner room 729 with windows on the shady side, opposite the noisy hotel area, without neighbors - on the other side of the room there is a fire escape.

– 729? - the maid on duty on the floor asked, holding out the keys - yes, you have the best room on the floor! – she confirmed the administrator’s words.

Head Harm wiped the sweat from his forehead and sarcastically asked:
– And who was wrong?

The flight journalist guiltily and tenderly kissed her husband.
In the evening we only went to a nearby grocery store to replenish food supplies for breakfast. Because I didn’t want to pay extra 720 rubles (for two) for breakfast. And, judging by the reviews, he is very average at “Rizhskaya”. Having a travel kettle in your bag and a refrigerator in your room, the same yoghurts, curd cheeses and sliced ​​cheeses and sausages bought in a store cost much less than that amount.

I didn’t want to look for a cafe, and we had a good lunch in Pushgory; there was no hunger frenzy. Due to fatigue and inveterate drunkenness, we were content with “Vasileostrovsky” beer in the hotel bar. This drink could not stand comparison even with “Black Mountain”, not to mention “Bernard”, and its temperature was too bad. Warm, expensive swill.

At about 10 o'clock we dropped dead to sleep.

Let me pause here, to be continued in the next publication: . Conclusion of the article.

Last year, for the New Year holidays, a group of friends and I went on a trip Moscow-Peter-Pskov-Pechory-Izborsk-Pushkin Mountains-Moscow. While almost everyone from our company was in St. Petersburg, there were only a few in the north-west of the country, in Pskov, which made the trip arouse genuine interest. Moreover, to meet New Year It's always interesting in a new environment.

So, New Year holidays, a time when our entire country is relaxing and you can finally relax and not run anywhere. The first part of our trip took place in St. Petersburg, and it was also planned to spend the New Year there. Next, we planned to travel by train from St. Petersburg to Pskov. After living for several days on Pskov land and examining the surrounding area, we had to return to Moscow. This is the route we developed in a nutshell ( detailed plan trips to St. Petersburg and Pskov here).

Recently I have not liked sightseeing tours. How can I imagine this crowd of tourists, a guide who is always running somewhere, loading you up with unnecessary things and not always interesting facts. It’s much more interesting to travel on your own, to walk around interesting places, interesting to you. In addition, if you have free time and the Internet at hand, you can prepare well for the trip.

The group of travelers was quite large, so I acted as a coordinator, or rather the person responsible for purchasing train tickets and hotel reservations. As always before New Year holidays the choice of hotels was all tight, so we had to book hotels other than those that had availability.

Day 1. Arrival in St. Petersburg. Check-in at the hotel, Dinner at the Pharmacy, walk around St. Petersburg at night

We arrived from Moscow to St. Petersburg late in the evening, around 21, on an evening high-speed train. Some modern trains have become very reminiscent of European ones. So we were lucky, we were traveling in a seated carriage, where there were separate compartments designed for 6 people. These carriages have tables, which is especially convenient if you are traveling with a group. You can order something to eat from the carriage driver if you didn’t have time to do so in the city. Convenient and comfortable.

Several hours before St. Petersburg flew by without us even noticing. Coming out on the platform, we met our friends with umbrellas. It's Peter, baby. It almost always rains here, even if it’s just before New Year’s. There is absolutely nothing to do there without an umbrella.

Arriving in the city on the Neva, we went to check into the hotel that I had booked. It was a mini-hotel Egoist, located in the very center of St. Petersburg, on Nevsky Prospekt. Before this incident, I had never lived in mini-hotels that are located in residential buildings. It was an interesting experience, because apart from our company, no one else lived in the hotel at that time. The biggest advantage of the hotel is its location. It’s so nice to leisurely leave your room and walk to Palace Square, leisurely stroll along the Neva embankments and come back, and all this without public transport. The hotel also had its downsides. For example, the bathroom - I hate shower cabins without a tray when you have to stand on bare tiles.You can read a review of the Egoist Hotel Here.

In general, there are always pros and cons, but in the summer I would gladly come to the Egoist Hotel on Nevsky again.

After checking in, in the rain, we went for a walk along Nevsky. Nice Christmas trees appeared on the streets; in general, I love cities at night, because many of the shortcomings are hidden.

St. Petersburg was decorated especially, royally. Less rich than Moscow, but more stylish, in a palace spirit.

A Christmas tree appeared at Gostinny Dvor.

In the evening we had dinner booked at the unusual Indian cafe Pharmacy. secret place for the chosen ones. I wrote more about this in the story about first day of the trip.

After dinner we went for a walk palace square, which on the evening of December 29 was completely deserted, except for the saxophonist playing his melodies.

We ended the evening with a walk along the Embankments.

Day-2. Peter. Visit to the Yusupov Palace, the Museum of Russian Vodka, the Exhibition "Grand Model of Russia"

The second day of our trip fell on December 30, it was Monday. The plan was to devote this day to a cultural program, but as you know, many museums are closed on Monday, which limited our choice. In advance, I planned a visit to the Yusupov Palace (popular, but less known among tourists than, for example, the Hermitage), the Russian Vodka Museum and the unusual new project “Grand Model of Russia”.

The morning in St. Petersburg was, as always, cloudy, rainy and snowless. We left the hotel and went to breakfast. The place was chosen in advance along our route. It was a hipster buffet Reindeer Sweater.

In the afternoon, our program included a visit to the Yusupov Palace on the Moika. The palace ticket office is located next to the building. When purchasing tickets, there were two options: wait for the tour, which takes place every two hours, or purchase a ticket with an audio guide. We chose the latter and did not regret it, since there was no limited time here; we could admire the interiors of the beautiful palace to our heart’s content. Everyone was especially impressed by the premises of the private theater.

The palace has an exhibition dedicated to Grigory Rasputin, because as you know, Felix Yusupov took a direct part in the shameful event to eliminate Rasputin. We decided not to go to these halls, since we were limited in time, and we were pretty tired after visiting the halls.

On the same day we visited the museum: "Grand Model of Russia" (address Saint Petersburg, metro station Moskovskie Vorota, Tsvetochnaya st., 16). This is a new project for St. Petersburg; it includes a huge model, where various regions of Russia are presented in miniature.

The museum is located a 10-minute walk from the metro, on the territory of a former industrial zone. Children really like this place, so I recommend it especially for a trip with children, because the layout is not static, trains and ships are moving there all the time. In addition, individual scenes can be activated at the touch of a button.

Despite the fact that our group consisted of only adults, everyone really enjoyed the trip here.

Also in St. Petersburg we visited the Museum of Russian Vodka. It was just before New Year's, so we couldn't get the guide to tell us about the exhibits. But next to the museum there is the Ryumochnaya restaurant, where you could taste different kinds alcoholic drinks, but in a pleasant atmosphere. The museum itself is more designed for foreigners, but it will not make much of an impression on Russians.

You can read a detailed review of your visit to the Museum of Russian Vodka here.

The glass shop near the Museum of Russian Vodka.

Day-3. Peter. Walk to the Smolny Cathedral, New Year's Eve at the Literary Cafe

We decided to spend December 31st calmly, walking around the Liteiny Prospekt area. The weather calmed down a little, and it was decided to go to the Smolny Cathedral.

The walk to Smolny turned out to be picturesque, but we were not able to visit the Cathedral itself. They were preparing for an event here, so it was closed. In general, on the eve of the New Year, many establishments, museums, and cathedrals were closed in St. Petersburg. Apparently everyone had started preparing for the celebration, and no tourists were expected.

On the way from Smolny towards the station square we came across a wonderful establishment called Croo cafe. We had a great time here. The staff was very pleasant, the service was fast, the food was delicious.

The young student waiter was very sociable and told us about places in the city where we could go. For which we are especially grateful. I recommend the cafe, one of best impressions about St. Petersburg catering.

In the evening of the same day we were going to celebrate the New Year in one of the most famous restaurants in St. Petersburg - the Literary Cafe. The establishment is famous for the fact that it was here that A.S. vacationed. Pushkin before his last duel. Naturally, everything here is imbued with the spirit of that era, and on the first floor of the establishment you can see the “model” of Alexander Sergeevich himself.

We liked the interior of the place, but the celebration itself was not very good. I won’t say anything about the fact that they gave us expired champagne and tried in every possible way to hide it.

You can read how we celebrated the New Year at the Literary Cafe here.

Day 4. St. Petersburg. Party "Favorite Place 2113", "Terrace", Rossis

The first day of the new year passed almost in a fog. We walked along Nevsky Prospect and went into several establishments.

Day 5. St. Petersburg. Peter and Paul Fortress and Koryushka restaurant. Moving to Pskov

Last in St. Petersburg we left a visit to the Peter and Paul Fortress. We had to get on the subway and get there.

In the fortress you could walk along the fortress wall, visit the Peter and Paul Cathedral with a magnificent spire, and also visit the prison bastion.

Prison of the Peter and Paul Fortress. Of greatest interest are the stories of the prisoners of this fortress, which can be found at information stands near the cameras.

In the evening of the same day we went to Pskov. The journey took only a few hours, which flew by unnoticed.

Day 6. Pskov, trip to Pechory and Izborsk

It was the first time for our entire company, not counting the part that was from Pskov, to be in Pskov.

In this city, I booked standard rooms at the Kolos Hotel. Its advantage was its location - in the very center, not far from the Pskov Kremlin (Krom). The hotel rooms were large enough and the baths were cozy. What was unusual was that there were water heaters in the bathroom. Apparently there are sometimes blackouts hot water, and this is done for the convenience of visitors. Overall, I had no complaints about the hotel. The only thing is that the cleaning was not carried out very thoroughly, only when we hung a sign on the door asking us to clean up.

You can read my review of the Kolos Hotel in Pskov here.

So, on to travel. On the first day of our visit to Pskov, we immediately went by car to Pechory and Izborsk. A visit to these two settlements can be combined into one, since they are located along the way (the furthest is Pechory).

In Pechory there is the famous Pechersky Monastery, which is famous for its caves. The monastery is surrounded by impregnable walls, which more than once saved it from enemy invasion. Inside the walls there are several temples where miraculous icons. The main attraction is the holy caves, which are still in use today. if you receive the priest’s blessing, you will be allowed to visit them with an escort. We weren’t able to do this because it was Christmas Eve and everyone was busy with completely different issues - we had to decorate the churches and get ready for the holiday.

Even though we didn’t go to church, it was quite interesting and educational. We were very surprised that in Pechory, despite the large number of pilgrims and tourists, there are very few places to eat. The most popular place, the Old Tower, was full of tourists, so we had to go to the canteen nearby to warm up.

A detailed review of our trip to the Pechora Monastery, its history and legends can be read here.

Cathedral

Fortress wall of the monastery

After visiting Pechory, we went to Old Izborsk, the place where the fortress has been preserved. The nazhad underwent restoration for several years, so today it is a very worthy tourist site. The greatness of Izborsk lies in the fact that it is mentioned in the chronicles as the place where Truvor, one of the very first Rurikovichs called to the kingdom, came to rule. However, the city itself was located slightly different from where today's fortress is located. If you want to get to that very place, you will need to go to the Truvorovo settlement, where you can also see the two-meter Truvor cross.

We didn’t have much time, so we limited ourselves to visiting the Izborsk fortress, walking along the Malskaya Valley and exploring the Slovenian Springs and lake.

You can read more about visiting the Izborsk Fortress here.

Gorodishchenskoye Lake and springs.

After such a busy excursion program, we decided to have lunch at the hotel restaurant in Izborsk. The food was quite tasty, but the service was very long. After lunch we returned to Pskov and walked around the city at night a little.

Day-7. Trip to the Pushkin Mountains

One day we went to the so-called Pushkin Mountains. The road was long, since from Pskov it is about 120 kilometers one way.

First of all, we stopped at the Svetlogorsk Monastery. This monastery is famous for the fact that Alexander Sergeevich liked to spend his time here when he visited Mikhailovsky. He is buried here, next to the main cathedral.

After visiting the monastery, we stopped at Mikhailovskoye, walked there and looked around manor house(this is already the 5th house, the previous ones burned down). Further from Mikhailovskoye we took an amazing walk through fields and forests towards Trigorskoye. We got a little lost and couldn’t reach the second estate on foot.

I had to call friends by car in order to get to Trigorskoye.

In general, one day is not enough to explore the Pushkin Mountains; you should definitely come here with an overnight stay.

Day-8. Pskov, Krom, city tour, visit to the Mirozhsky Monastery, Pagankin Chambers, walks around the city

We didn’t walk much around ancient Pskov, just two days. During this time we visited the Kremlin, the Trinity Cathedral, the Pagankin Chamber Museum, and the Mirozhsky Monastery.

Fortress walls

Day-9. Pskov, walk around the city, buying souvenirs, departure to Moscow

We spent our last day in Pskov buying souvenirs and walking around the city.

I wrote in detail about what you can bring from Pskov here.

Late in the evening of the 9th day of our trip, we set off by night train to Moscow. Overall, the trip turned out to be eventful and educational. We discovered the city of Pskov with a great desire to return again. As it turned out, 4 days in Pskov is not enough.

Travel in numbers

Travel dates: December 29 - January 7 (mode of transportation - trains, taxis), number of days: 9.

5 settlements: St. Petersburg, Pskov, Pechory, Izborsk, Pushkin Mountains

2 hotels: mini-hotel Egoist (St. Petersburg), hotel Kolos (Pskov).

useful links

Hotels in St. Petersburg: reviews and booking

Hotels in Pskov

Hotels in Izborsk

Hotels in Pechory

Where to stay in the Pushkin Mountains