If gooseberries have been growing at your dacha for a long time, you got the bush from your grandmother, and she once took cuttings from her great-grandmother, most likely you are familiar with the problem of powdery mildew firsthand. This whitish coating on the leaves and stems, brown spots on the berries, which can be cleaned off if you try, but it’s still not very pleasant. Old varieties are good because they are tasty and definitely have not undergone any modifications, but the problem is that they are not at all resistant to various diseases.
I don’t want to get rid of a tasty variety, but I don’t want to defeat powdery mildew. At the same time, it would be nice to do without toxic pesticides. There are effective folk remedies for the prevention and control of powdery mildew. And they have been tested in practice.
The gooseberry disease, which everyone calls powdery mildew, is called spheroteca. It affects all parts of the bush: leaves, shoots, ovaries, berries. At first, the plant is covered with a white coating, and over time it turns into a brown coating, reminiscent of felt. The affected shoots are bent, the leaves are curled, and the fruits are poorly filled.
The disease is caused by a genus of fungi with the same name, which release spores twice: in spring and summer. Therefore, in a good way, you need to carry out three treatments of gooseberries against powdery mildew: before flowering, immediately after flowering and before leaf fall. In this case, it is better not to spray the bushes, but to wet them, trying not to miss a single branch. In addition, it is important to remember that the fungal spores overwinter in the litter, that is, it is necessary to spill the same product on the soil around the bush. It is recommended to carry out the treatment in the evening.
Folk remedies for powdery mildew on gooseberries
Ammonium nitrate 50 grams of ammonium nitrate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Gooseberries are treated after flowering.
Aspirin + Soda 1 tbsp. soda, 1 aspirin tablet, 1 tsp. dishwashing detergent or liquid soap, 1 tbsp. vegetable oil is dissolved in 4.5 liters of water. The bushes are treated with this composition once every two weeks during the season.
Water Water should be brought to a boil. In early spring, before the snow melts, gooseberry bushes are doused with boiling water directly from a watering can.
Gaupsin or trichodermin (biological products) 150 ml. The drug is dissolved in 10 liters of water. Spray gooseberries during the growing season at intervals of 2 weeks.
Ash Option 1. One kilogram of ash is poured into 10 liters of water and left for 7 days, stirring occasionally. Then carefully pour the infusion, leaving sediment at the bottom. Option 2,300 grams of ash are mixed with 10 liters of water, brought to a boil and boiled for 30 minutes. Then cool until sediment appears and carefully pour into a clean container. Option 3.3 kg. ash is poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 24 hours. Then filter. Spraying is carried out at the end of May - beginning of June three times with an interval of one day. The ash sludge is diluted with water and the soil under the bushes is watered with this mixture.
Soda ash 50 grams of soda ash are dissolved in a small amount of hot water, then the water is brought to 10 liters and 10 grams of liquid soap are added. Gooseberries are processed twice: before flowering and after flowering.
Kefir or sour milk 1 liter of kefir or sour milk is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.
Mullein Mullein is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 and infused for three days. Then dilute again with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Onion peels 200 grams of onion peels are poured with 10 liters of boiling water and left for 2 days. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Whey 1 liter of whey is mixed with 9 liters of water. Treatment is carried out three times every three days.
Tansy 30 grams of dry tansy is poured with 10 liters of water and left for 24 hours. Then cook for 1.5-2 hours and filter. Tansy decoction is used to treat the ground around the bushes in spring and autumn.
Rotten hay or forest litter A bucket is filled one third with hay, topped up with water and left for three days. Then again dilute with water 1:3 and filter. Gooseberries are treated before flowering, after flowering and before leaf fall.
Soda 2 tbsp. soda and 50 grams of grated laundry soap are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The bushes are treated twice: before flowering and after flowering.
Fertilizers For 10 liters of water you need 20 grams of superphosphate, 50 grams of potassium chloride, 30 grams of urea, 5 grams of potassium permanganate. Gooseberries are sprayed once after flowering.
Fitosporin Take 100-150 ml. drug per 10 liters of water. The bush and the soil under it are treated in the spring before flowering and in the fall after fruiting.
Horsetail 1 kg. fresh horsetail is poured into 10 liters of water and boiled for 2 hours. The broth is cooled, filtered and diluted with water 1:5. Spray gooseberries during the summer season at intervals of a week.
In conclusion, I would like to say that powdery mildew, like many other fungal diseases, loves moisture, thickened plantings and soils poor in organic matter. Therefore, firstly, you need to try to regularly cut out old, poorly fruiting branches so that air can freely penetrate inside the bush, and secondly, to heal and enrich the soil with organic matter. Instead of digging under the bushes, weeding out all the weeds and removing the litter (what if there is a fungus lurking there?), it is better, on the contrary, to put tops under the gooseberries (the tops of nightshades are especially good: potatoes and tomatoes) and generously spill them on top with a solution of EM preparations . Beneficial microorganisms will quickly get down to business and “chew” organic residues along with pathogenic fungi. We wish you success and great harvests!
Mint is susceptible to various diseases, the most harmful of which are rust, powdery mildew, downy mildew, fusarium, ascochyta, septoria, sprouting, etc. The strong development of diseases on mint leads to a decrease in yield and a decrease in the essential oil content in the raw material.
Rust.
The disease is widespread in all areas of crop cultivation, with the exception of the Issyk-Kul depression. The causative agent is the basidiomycete Puccinia menthae (Pers.), which goes through 5 successively alternating stages characteristic of rust fungi. Edidia appear in the spring on stems in the form of orange pads. They are formed from diffusely overwintered mycelium in the rhizomes of mint, which continues to develop in the spring at a temperature of 9... 10°. 15-20 days after the formation of aecidia, pinpoint brown, dusty uredopustules appear on the underside of the leaves. During the growing season, uredostasta produces up to 8 generations. Severely affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. In August, telytospores gradually form in the uredopustules, causing the pustules to take on the appearance of black raised dots. Teleitospores overwinter and in the spring they germinate into basidia with basidiospores, giving rise to the aecidial stage. Consequently, mycelium of mint rhizomes and telytospores of plant residues can serve as sources of infection.
Crop losses, depending on weather conditions, are 25-50%, the yield of essential oil is reduced by 75-84%. Particularly severe damage is observed after the 1st mowing in conditions of long-term use of plantations. When mint is slightly affected by rust, the oil content in the leaves increases.
Mint varieties are not equally susceptible to rust. However, resistant varieties retain this property only in certain areas. For example, the variety Vysokomentholnaya 1 is affected in Ukraine, but in the conditions of Primorye it is not affected. The variety Krasnodarskaya 2, resistant in the Moscow region, is affected in the conditions of the North Caucasus and Ukraine.
Powdery mildew.
The disease is significantly widespread in the Krasnodar region, Kyrgyzstan, and Ukraine. It develops poorly in the Non-Chernozem Zone. Absent in Primorye and Latvia. It is caused by the marsupial fungus Erysiphe cichoracearum f. menthae Jacz. A characteristic whitish coating appears on the leaves, consisting of mycelium, conidiophores and conidia. In the 2nd half of the growing season, fruiting bodies - cleistothecia in the form of black dots - are formed on the surface of the plaque. When the leaves are severely damaged early by powdery mildew, they fall off prematurely.
The source of infection is plant debris on which the marsupial stage is formed. Secondary infection is carried out by asexual sporulation conidia, they are easily carried by the wind and cause further infection of plants throughout the growing season.
Mint is most severely affected by powdery mildew in years with hot weather and relative air humidity of 75-80%. With an average degree of disease development, the yield is reduced by 13-25°/o Epiphytotics lead to even greater yield losses. The yield of essential oil is reduced by 10-25%.
VILR employees have found that mint varieties that are resistant to rust are more susceptible to powdery mildew. Conversely, varieties that are very susceptible to rust are more resistant to powdery mildew.
The disease occurs in Ukraine, in the Primorsky and Krasnodar territories. The causative agent is fungi from the genus Fusarium.
Plants are stunted in growth, lose turgor, and the stem at the root part darkens. In humid weather, the affected area becomes covered with a whitish, and later pinkish, coating of sporulation of the fungus. In dry weather, such plants dry out, and in wet weather they rot.
The disease is severely manifested in years with low air temperatures and insufficient soil moisture. On soils with heavy mechanical composition, it is focal in nature. With the strong development of Fusarium wilt in some areas, up to half of the crop dies. The source of infection is contaminated soil and plant debris.
The causative agent is the imperfect fungus Phyllosticta menthae Pers. When infected, small, rounded white spots with a convex brown rim form on the leaves. In the middle of the spot, pycnidia are formed over time in the form of black dots. Severely affected leaves drop prematurely.
The source of infection is the affected plant debris, on which the fungus overwinters in the form of pycnidia. The optimal temperature for the development of the disease is 23...28°.
Anthracnose.
The causative agent is the imperfect fungus Sphaceloma menthae Jenk. from the order Melanconiaceae. At the end of May - beginning of June, small brown spots appear on the petioles, leaves and stems. On the leaves in the center they gradually turn white, dead tissue often falls out. On the stems, the spots take on an oblong, depressed shape. With severe damage, the leaves fall off, the affected stems become thin and twisted.
The main source of infection is crop residues. Secondary infection is carried out by conidia.
Mint grown by seedlings suffers more from anthracnose. This disease, like phyllostictosis, does not affect mint every year, so it does not cause noticeable harm.
Ascochytaosis.
The causative agent is Ascochyta leonuri Ell. et Dearn. Small spots with scattered brown pycnidia appear on the leaves and stems. On the stems they sometimes merge 2-3 together. Leaves dry out prematurely and fall off, shoots become bent, and if the infection is severe, plants are stunted in growth.
The infection persists on the affected mint leaves and stems in the form of pycnidia, in which spores form. The causative agent of ascochyta blight in mint also affects the leaves of motherwort and catnip, so these weeds can be reservoirs of infection.
The causative agent of the disease is the fungus Septoria menthae Oudem. Round or angular spots with a dark purple, almost black border and a lighter center appear on the leaves in June. In the center of the spots, as with all septoria, pycnidia form in the form of black dots. The fabric of the stains cracks and falls out over time. The infection persists in the form of pycnidia on fallen leaves.
The disease is more common in floodplains and lowlands, i.e. in places with high humidity, at a temperature of 22...27°.
The symptoms of septoria blight, ascochyta blight and phyllostictosis have much in common, so microscopy of sporulation is required to identify a specific disease.
Downy mildew.
The causative agent is a fungus of the Oomycete class - Peronospora stigmaticola Reunk. The disease is very harmful. Affects inflorescences and leaves. A delicate, barely noticeable loose coating of grayish color with a pale purple tint develops on flower petals, stigmas and stamen filaments. Light green blurry spots appear on the upper side of the leaves; on the underside the spots are covered with a faint coating of sporulation of the fungus. Severely affected leaves become deformed and fall off prematurely, the inflorescences become brown and dry out, and they rot in rainy weather.
The source of infection is mycelium and oospores on plant debris and mint plants during its long-term cultivation. Reinfection occurs due to asexual sporulation conidia, which form en masse on the affected parts of mint under conditions of high relative humidity and moderate temperature. The disease develops more strongly in poorly ventilated areas and in damp, low-lying areas.
Overgrowth.
Overgrowth is caused by mycoplasma microorganisms. Sick plants can be noticed already at the beginning of mint regrowth. They noticeably lag behind in growth and acquire anthocyanin coloring. Rhizomes do not form or appear densely sprouted, but with shoots that do not reach the soil surface. Another sign is the formation of a large number of thin shoots, the inflorescences of which in most cases are hypertrophied with overgrown sepals. In some varieties, these shoots extend from the base parallel to the central stem, while in others, abundant formation of shoots occurs in the upper part of the bush.
System of protective measures against peppermint diseases.
Mint is grown only in crop rotation. The best predecessors are winter grains, leguminous crops, root crops and perennial grasses. For planting mint, flat, low-lying areas with fertile soils of light mechanical composition, free from weeds, are allocated. Before planting, create a loose arable horizon up to 27-30 cm deep. The addition of borate and zinc superphosphate under plowing reduces rust damage to plants.
Healthy planting material is used for planting. Mint is propagated by seedlings and rhizomes, the best of which are segments 15-18 cm long. Recently, it has been practiced to plant mint with seedlings, which are first dipped in 1% Bordeaux mixture for 10-15 minutes.
It is important to form an optimal plant density. Mint is planted in a row with row spacing of 60-70 cm, burying the rhizomes to a depth of 8-10 cm. Thickening leads to more severe rust and spotting.
Caring for plantations in the 1st year of growing season consists of early spring harrowing, cultivating row spacing to a depth of 10-12 cm until the rows close together with the simultaneous destruction of weeds.
On transitional mint plantations, during autumn thinning of plantings, a 20 cm wide strip is left. Spring care of such plantings consists of spring harrowing in 1-2 traces, subsequent cultivation and application of mineral fertilizers.
When rust appears on the leaves, they are treated with fungicides: 1st - at the beginning of mint branching, the next two - with an interval of 10-14 days. Liquid consumption for ground spraying is 600-800 l/ha. To protect against powdery mildew, sulfur preparations or fungicides are used to suppress the development of the pathogen. In case of strong development of rust or powdery mildew, as well as other diseases such as spotting, it is advisable to begin harvesting at the beginning of budding, which prevents severe shedding of leaves.
When post-harvest mint grows more than 10-15 cm, it is mowed down and plant debris is removed.
The healing properties of mint are used in folk medicine, the cosmetic industry and pharmacology. Gardeners grow the fragrant plant for culinary purposes. Fresh leaves can be used to make refreshing drinks and add an original taste to summer dishes. To enjoy a healthy and aromatic spice even in winter, you should know how to properly grow mint at home.Varieties for growing on a windowsill
To grow mint as an indoor flower, it is recommended to choose varieties with compact shoots and root systems. Growing spicy herbs at home on a windowsill is possible with the following varieties:- Vegetable fun. Perennial bush that can grow in partial shade. The leaves of the plant have a menthol aroma and a refreshing taste. The height of the shoots is 50 cm. The variety is demanding on the composition of the soil; the volume of green mass depends on the amount of nutrients.
- The Spike Ceremony. A medium sized mint bush with deep green foliage. Needs good lighting, stretches out in the shade and forms few shoots. It has a high menthol content and a pronounced aroma. Mainly used in cooking.
- Pennyroyal. Suitable for growing at home due to its compact size. The shoots are densely covered with miniature leaves with a purple tint. The drooping stems have a distinct minty aroma. Tender greens are used to make drinks.
When purchasing seeds, it is necessary to take into account the agrotechnical requirements of the species. Ways to grow mint in an apartment
In order to grow fresh mint at home on a windowsill, you need to choose one of the possible propagation methods. A perennial crop can be obtained from seeds, cuttings or using root cuttings from the mother plant. Knowing the features of each method will help even novice gardeners cope with planting.Seeds
A universal way to grow mint at home. Planting material is sold in flower shops or prepared independently. Growing mint from seeds at home produces delicate greens with a menthol aroma. At the same time, the young shoots of the first year are slightly inferior in taste to the adult plant.Mint planted on a windowsill from seeds produces the first harvest of greenery in 2-2.5 months. A lengthy and labor-intensive method of cultivation is used when it is necessary to obtain a certain variety of plant.
Root layering
A new mint bush is grown at home from the roots of a perennial growing in the garden. The culture has developed superficial root processes with nodes of dormant buds. In open ground, fragrant grass quickly takes over the territory due to the formation of new bushes from cuttings. To get a new mint bush at home, you need to separate a section with 3-4 buds from the root system at the end of summer.It is advisable to treat the harvested material with a growth stimulator according to the instructions. The root should be buried 5-7 cm into the soil. The soil in the container should be moist and nutritious. At the bottom of the container there must be a drainage layer or holes through which excess water is drained. After 2 weeks, the first shoots should appear.
Using cuttings
Perennials growing in the garden can be propagated by cuttings. This is the fastest way to get homemade mint greens from a garden plant. The vegetative method of propagation by cuttings is carried out throughout the summer, when there is enough green mass on the mother bush.Part of the side stem is cut with a sharp knife at an angle of 45°. A few top leaves are left on the mint cuttings, and the bottom ones are carefully peeled off. The shoot is placed in a container of water in partial shade. As soon as the mint produces roots 1-1.5 cm long, the stem is transplanted into prepared soil. For several weeks, the seedling is protected from the scorching rays of the sun penetrating into the house.
Step-by-step instructions for growing mint on a windowsill
Garden culture has simple agrotechnical requirements. It is more difficult to grow fragrant mint on the windowsill at home. It is necessary to choose the optimal place for the plant, provide it with nutritious soil, and properly care for the seedlings.Landing place
The microclimate of the house for growing mint should be close to the natural growing conditions of the variety. First of all, you need to take care of a well-lit place. Containers with seedlings should be placed on western or eastern windows. Scorching rays can burn young greens, and a lack of light will lead to stretching of shoots and a decrease in essential oils in the greens. In the warm season, it is recommended to plant mint on a balcony or loggia.
The culture is demanding on humidity levels. During the heating season, it is necessary to spray the plantings daily with warm water. During active growth of shoots, the temperature regime for the plant should be maintained at 22-25°C. In winter, when the bush is resting, it is recommended to lower the temperature by a few degrees. Which container to choose
The root system of mint lies close to the surface of the earth. The development of new shoots occurs in width, so the pot must have a suitable height to depth ratio.Remember! The plant takes root well in a ceramic pot. It has the property of absorbing excess moisture and letting in the air required by the roots.
Before transplanting mint into a pot, you need to take care of the drainage layer at the bottom of the soil and holes for draining excess water. Plastic containers should not be used for planting. In such bowls, the roots do not receive enough air.
What soil to plant mint in?
You should plant mint at home in light soil with a loose structure. Adding peat and sand to the soil mixture improves air access to the roots. To maintain soil moisture, it is recommended to add hydrogel to the soil.A mandatory requirement when growing mint is the acidity level of the soil. The optimal indicator is 5.6-6 pH. A low level of alkaline composition leads to a decrease in the concentration of essential oil in the leaves of the plant. Mint is not demanding on soil fertility; the lack of nutrients can be compensated for with complex fertilizers.
Preparation of material and planting mint
Mint seeds are purchased at flower shops. Self-harvesting planting material requires experience and often does not lead to the desired result. The seeds of the aromatic crop are pre-soaked for 1-2 days inside a damp cloth. The procedure is not mandatory; in this way, the period of emergence of mint shoots is reduced. Planting is carried out in several stages:- The soil in the container is moistened and large lumps are removed.
- In the bowl, grooves are made in the soil to a depth of 1-2 mm.
- The seeds are planted in the soil and carefully sprinkled with a layer of soil.
- The crops are sprayed with settled water and covered with a transparent lid.
Seedling care
Sprouts appear on the surface of the earth after 2-3 weeks. The seedlings need diffused light, so the protective cover is removed. The soil is moistened so as to prevent the top layer from drying out. Surface roots dry out quickly and the plant may die.
The temperature for growing seedlings at home is maintained at 18-20°C. Two true leaves appear on seedlings after 22-25 days. At this time, it is recommended to pick the seedlings into individual cups. Caring for mint seedlings at home involves moistening the soil and air around the plantings. It is advisable to place a container of water or a tray with wet expanded clay next to the bowls at home. The nutritional value of the soil can be replenished with fertilizers.
Attention!. Mineral fertilizing is applied 14 days after diving and repeated a month later.
Main diseases and pests of mint
The pronounced aroma of menthol repels many harmful insects from mint. The mint flea beetle and leaf beetle are dangerous. Small pest larvae can get home along with garden soil. Insects feed on young shoots and roots of mint, weakening the plant. Regular inspection of foliage and ground surfaces helps identify hazards early.The mint flea beetle is a yellow beetle, 1.5 mm in size. On the affected plant there are round holes that are gnawed by the insect. The dangerous beetle is destroyed by spraying with the drug Aclectic.
A leaf beetle attack is recognized by a cluster of green bugs with a glossy sheen on the stems and leaf axils. Pests draw out the sap, causing the shoots to dry out and die. An effective means of control is to treat the plantings with Chlorophos solution.
At home on a windowsill, with high humidity and cool air, mint can be susceptible to fungal diseases. The appearance of red or brown spots on the back of the leaves is a sign of rust damage. A whitish coating on the front side of the shoots indicates a mint disease with powdery mildew. At the initial stage of a fungal disease, the leaves need to be treated with fungicides.
Subtleties of mint collection
You can harvest spices grown at home throughout the year. The young leaves have a pleasant aroma and are used in cocktails, desserts or teas. The level of essential oil in them is lower than in older shoots. Early pruning allows the bush to form and promotes the formation of lateral shoots. After the shoots reach technical maturity, from the beginning of budding, mint is collected, prepared, and stored for medicinal use. The stems are cut at a distance of 7-10 cm from the ground. They are tied together in bundles and hung in a dark, ventilated room. Dried mint is stored in canvas bags or glass jars. More nutrients are retained in an airtight container.Fresh, vitamin-rich greens from the garden are available primarily during the summer months. By planting mint on your windowsill at home, you can provide yourself with a fragrant spice for all seasons.
Peppermint has been valued for many years for its amazing taste and medicinal qualities, which is why this plant is often grown in home gardens. Parts of this vegetation are successfully used for cosmetic purposes, as well as in cooking and traditional medicine recipes.
The green mint leaf beetle is most often found in European territory. He loves to enjoy essential oil crops, so he often chooses lemon balm or mint.
After a month and a half, mature females begin laying eggs on mint inflorescences - in one season, one individual can lay about 200 eggs. The breeding season of the green mint leaf beetle lasts from June to early September.
Both larvae and beetles usually accumulate on mint shoots in fairly large quantities, which ultimately causes damage and subsequent drying of the plantings. The second generation of leaf beetles appears in early October.
The larvae go through 4 stages of development and develop in the egg for up to 3 days. They are highly sensitive, so at the slightest danger or touch they curl up and fall to the ground. The larvae of the green mint leaf beetle cause serious damage to mint plantings: they skeletonize the leaves, make through holes in them and eat around the edges.
To pupate, the larvae go into the ground, going to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. A week later they turn into pupae, and in August new bugs fly out. During the season, 2 generations of mint pest develop.
Leaf beetles pose a real threat to many agricultural crops. To combat them, an integrated approach is used, based on mechanical, biological and chemical destruction of individuals.
At the first detection of individuals on the site, you can try to collect the adults manually. Preventive measures include timely pruning of diseased parts of the plant and their subsequent destruction, burning of fallen autumn leaves and any plant waste, deep digging of the soil after harvesting before frost.
The preparations Actellik and Fosbecid are used for spraying with insecticides, but it is strictly recommended to stop their use 40 days before harvest.
In addition, it is advisable to use folk recipes against insects - spray mint with an infusion of hot pepper or tomato tops. A good effect is obtained by treating plants with infusion of chamomile and dusting the soil with tobacco dust. In addition, it is recommended to promptly get rid of weeds that can attract the mint leaf beetle to the area.
Some amateur gardeners believe that mint does not need care: plant it and forget it. This is a misconception - like other cultivated plants, aromatic grass responds to care with high yields and does not create problems. If the plantings are not given any attention, they can get sick and be attacked by pests. For example, the appearance of a white coating on mint signals the presence of a common disease - powdery mildew. Only timely help will save the situation and allow you to enjoy the inimitable taste of a drink made from fresh leaves, as well as prepare them for future use.
People appreciate mint for its taste, pleasant smell and content of nutrients. However, this crop also attracts many pests and pathogens. Having planted herbs on your site, you should not leave it without proper attention.
Prevention measures:
- do not leave plants in one place for a long time;
- cut off the stems after harvest and burn them;
- reduce nitrogen content in the soil;
- apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Rust
A dangerous fungal disease is widespread everywhere. It is expressed in the appearance of orange pads on the back of the leaves, which become brown over time.
The occurrence of the disease is associated with cool weather, high humidity, and excess nitrogen in the soil.
Infected plantings need to be sprayed with fungicides, which is permissible only at the beginning of plant development. The degree of risk of the disease also depends on the variety of mint.
Powdery mildew cannot be confused with anything: a whitish coating on the leaves and stems entangles plants like a cobweb. This phenomenon is typical for adult plants. Subsequently, the appearance of black fruiting bodies filled with spores is observed. The disease is stimulated by the August cold snap, heavy dew and increased air humidity. The fight consists of spraying the bushes with a weak solution of colloidal sulfur and pollination with ground sulfur. In autumn, deep plowing of the site is indicated. Interestingly, mint varieties susceptible to powdery mildew are not affected by rust, and vice versa.
A fungal attack causes a slowdown in plant growth, loss of elasticity, and darkening of the lower part of the stem. In hot weather the plantings dry out, in rainy weather they rot. The risk of Fusarium wilt increases in cold or dry summers in the absence of watering. The source of infection is plant debris and contaminated soil. Without treatment, most of the crop dies.
Phyllosticosis
Infection is indicated by leaves covered with small round white spots with a brown rim. Later, black dots - pycnidia - form in the center of the spot, and the leaves begin to fall off. The fungal pathogen remains to overwinter in plant debris and is activated at a temperature of +23...+28 degrees.
Anthracnose
The disease is expressed by brown spots that gradually turn white in the center of the leaves, which cover all organs of the plant. Serious damage leads to falling leaves, bending and thinning of the stems.
In most cases, the infection is hidden in plant debris.
Mint grown from seedlings has a higher risk of anthracnose infection. However, this disease is not so widespread as to cause significant damage to the crop.
Ascochyta blight
During the disease, spots with brown pycnidia, grouped in groups of 2-3, become noticeable on the stems and leaves. The growth of the bushes slows down, the stems become bent, and the leaves dry out and fall off. Often, the fungus moves from catnip or motherwort, so the proximity of these crops should be avoided.
Septoria
The manifestation of a fungal disease is light spots with a dark edging, round or triangular in shape. Black dots with pycnidia form in the middle of the spots. Cracks appear in this area and the fabric falls out over time. The infection most often affects plantings located in wetlands and places with close groundwater, at an air temperature of +22...+27 degrees.
Downy mildew
A dangerous disease that affects leaves and inflorescences. Symptoms include a barely noticeable, gray-violet coating on the flowers and greenish shapeless spots on the outside of the leaves. The development of the disease leads to deformation and loss of foliage, a change in the color of the inflorescences to brown and their drying out. Rainy weather activates mint rot. Infection occurs by preserving the spores and mycelium of the fungus in the harvest residues. The chances of disease occurrence are reduced in dry, elevated areas exposed to wind.
sprouting
The disease caused by microplasma microorganisms manifests itself from the moment of seedling emergence. Plants are stained with an anthocyanin tint, are stunted in growth and do not form a root system. Otherwise, many thinned shoots with hypertrophied inflorescences are formed.
Mint pests and methods of controlling them
Insect pests, attracted by the bright mint aroma, negatively affect the development of plantings.
This culture has many dangerous enemies, including:
- mint flea;
- mint leaf beetle;
- mint mite.
It annoys mint plants from the moment they grow, making holes in the leaves. Yellow bugs and larvae become active in warm, dry spring. In favorable seasons they cause significant damage to the crop. To combat insects during leaf formation, the Actellica solution is used.
A small green beetle with a bronze tint and its larvae gnaw at the edges of the leaves and make holes in them. A large concentration of the pest can destroy mint plantations. For prevention purposes, planting plants on ridges with wide row spacing is recommended. Treatment with infusion of chamomile and hot pepper is effective. In advanced cases, Metaphos or Chlorophos is used.
Mainly covers the southern territories. It comes to the surface of the soil in May and feeds on the juice of the upper part of the stems until August.
Deep autumn digging of ridges, burning of plant residues, replanting mint every two years and treatment with acaricidal preparations help to cope with insects.
In addition to these types of insect pests, the following are dangerous to mint:
- Cicadas. They prefer to suck the juices from young seedlings.
- Weevils. The larvae eat the root system, while the adults gnaw off the edges of the leaves.
- Meadow moths. A single specimen can destroy an entire plant.
- Drooling pennies. The damage is caused by adult insects and larvae that deform the shoots of the crop. They reveal themselves as foamy lumps located on the stems and in the axils of the foliage.
- Wireworms. The larvae of the click beetle gnaw the rhizomes. They remain in the soil from potatoes or are transmitted from wheatgrass.
- Medvedki. They destroy the roots, causing the mint to die.
Caterpillars of burdock, round-winged moth, meadow moth and cabbage cutworm also annoy fragrant plantings.
General pest control measures include the use of insecticides if the damage to plantings is too severe.
One-time spraying is allowed a month before harvest. This method is used as a last resort!
If you follow agrotechnical practices, preventive procedures are sufficient to minimize the risk of mint being affected by diseases and pests. In addition to the methods described above, plantings can be treated with a decoction of celandine, prepared from 200 g of leaves per bucket of water (let it stand for a day, after which a soap solution is added, and the decoction is ready). Some insects are repelled by an infusion of pine needles and a decoction of bird cherry branches.
You can add infusions to the list of environmentally friendly preparations for controlling garden pests:
- onion;
- garlic;
- tobacco;
- dandelion;
- yarrow.
