Diaphragm- a special mechanism that regulates the size of the hole in the lens. The diaphragm works like the pupil of the human eye. After all, when we go out into the light, the pupil noticeably narrows, letting in less light. When we are in the dark, the pupil dilates to allow as much light as possible into the eye. With the diaphragm - everything is the same. When lighting is poor, the aperture usually needs to be opened to allow as much light as possible into the lens. When shooting in bright light, the aperture closes. It looks something like this.
The aperture value is measured in fractional values, showing the ratio of the diameter of the lens entrance hole to the focal length. Aperture values are usually written like this: F/2.8, F/5.6, F/11, or like this: F 2.8, F 5.6, F 11. The depth of field is directly related to the aperture value. And the rule is very simple: the further the lens is closed by the aperture, the greater the depth of field (it is often written as depth of field - depth of field in the imaged space). At the minimum aperture, the depth of field is very small, and this effect is used to create portraits or to highlight an object in the frame (not necessarily in the foreground, by the way). For example, the aperture is fully open, the focus is on the central glass, and the rest of the glasses and the background are out of focus, creating the desired effect.
Another example of a sharp foreground subject and a blurry background.
This technique is also actively used when creating artistic portraits: sharpness is focused on the eyes, objects behind are out of focus and create the desired effect.
Here we used an aperture of F5 to make both the soldier and the boy sharp, while blurring the background.
When shooting architecture, landscapes, multi-faceted compositions (for example, people located at different distances from the photographer), it is necessary to use large aperture values, for example F 5.6 - F 16, to obtain the desired depth of field. Here, for example, is a multi-plane photo from Monserat, where an aperture of F 8 was used to obtain the desired depth of field. 
It should be borne in mind that the depth of field (at any aperture) is smaller, the closer the focusing object is to the camera. That is, if the object is very close to the lens, then even with large aperture values, the depth of field will be small. And if the focus is on a small object, then even with a fully open aperture the depth of field will be quite large. Some lenses (especially old ones) have markings that very clearly show the depth of field when using certain aperture values. This lens, for example, aperture F 22 depth of field will be approximately from 0.8 meters to infinity. And with aperture 11 - from 1.5 meters to infinity.
The type of blur in the background depends on the structure of the aperture (the number of blades) - photographers call this blur an unpronounceable word bokeh. Here's a photo I took on a Nikon DF with a 50mm/1.8 lens. 
With lens aperture, you need to remember that “too much is good is also not good.” In the sense that although a very closed aperture gives a greater depth of field, due to various optical laws it can deteriorate the quality of the image, so it is best to use aperture values in the range from 5.6 to 16, no more. The next parameter, which is very important to obtain the desired result, is excerpt. Shutter speed is the time interval for which the camera shutter opens so that the image through the lens hits the camera matrix. In the old days, when photographs were taken on photosensitive plates, the shutter speed at which the photographer opened the lens cap (there were no shutters then) was tens of minutes, or even an hour.
In modern cameras, shutter speeds are usually tenths, hundredths and even thousandths of a second, which allows you to take high-quality images without using a tripod. The further the aperture closes, the longer the shutter speed should be. And vice versa - the wider the aperture opens, the lower the shutter speed should be. When shooting handheld, the shutter speed should not exceed 1/80 of a second - otherwise the frame may be blurred due to hand shake. Also, the maximum handheld shutter speed depends on the focal length of the lens and is usually calculated as one divided by the focal length. That is, for a long-focus lens of 200 mm, the shutter speed should be no more than 1/200. (Well, there are several other factors at work here: the weight of the camera, the amplitude of hand shake, and so on.) If the camera or lens has a stabilizer, then without blur you can shoot at longer shutter speeds - 1/60, 1/30 and more. Image blur can be used as a special technique, especially when shooting at night: stationary objects will be sharp, and passing cars with their headlights will be blurred, creating an interesting effect. If the camera or subject is moving (shooting from a train, shooting sports competitions), then the shutter speed should be very low (short), and the faster the object moves, the slower it becomes. In this shot, the shutter speed was set to 1/800 to avoid blurring the dolphins' figures.
If the shutter speed is chosen incorrectly, the photo can be ruined - as in the example below, where 1/30 is too long a shutter speed for movement in the frame.
If the lighting is bad and even with a fully open aperture you have to take a long shutter speed, then you need to use a tripod (of course, this only applies to static scenes). This shot was taken with a shutter speed of 3 seconds from a tripod. 
And the last most important parameter when photographing is the photosensitivity of the matrix. Light sensitivity is measured in ISO units. Here are the standard ISO values for various cameras:
100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200.
ISO 50 is occasionally found, and various high ISOs are also used - 6400, 12800, 24000, up to ISO 102400, although only very expensive cameras can shoot at such high ISOs. In film cameras, the light sensitivity depended on the film itself and for a particular film was a constant unit - the photographer selected the ratio of shutter speed and aperture to the sensitivity of the film, using for this a special device called an exposure meter, or simply the corresponding tables. For digital cameras, purely physically, increasing the photosensitivity value means increasing the signal received from each pixel of the matrix. As the signal increases, interference increases - extraneous signals that are not related to the subject being photographed. As a result, so-called “noise” appears on the final frame - artifacts in the form of dots. Here is a photo taken with a smartphone, with the photosensitivity set to ISO 2000. Even from the reduced image you can see how strong the “noise” and interference are.
Well, here is a piece cut out from the full frame on a scale of 1:1. The "noise" is just awful. But this is not surprising. 
The maximum operating ISO value depends on the physical size of the camera sensor and the pixel sizes of this matrix. We talked about matrix sizes in detail in this article, so you should already have an understanding of this issue. So, for tiny smartphone matrices, as a rule, the picture begins to “noise” already at ISO 400-800. The same applies to conventional digital point-and-shoot cameras, where the matrix is not much larger. Good mirrorless and amateur DSLRs with matrices with a 1.5-2.7 crop produce quite decent results at ISO 3200 and even ISO 6400 (for a 1.5 crop). Full Frame cameras usually produce good quality at ISO up to 12800. Here is a photo taken with a Full Frame camera (Nikon DF) at ISO 12800.
Specialized cameras like the Sony Alpha A7S, where the FullFrame matrix contains 12 million large pixels, seem to allow you to shoot at ISO 25600, ISO 51200 and even ISO 102400, but one camera without a lens costs about a hundred thousand rubles. All three parameters - aperture, shutter speed, ISO - are interconnected. To get good image quality, it is advisable to make the ISO as low as possible (there will be less “noise”). However, in poor lighting conditions, even with a wide aperture at low ISOs, you will have to use very slow shutter speeds, which will lead to blurry images when shooting handheld. As a result, you have to reduce the shutter speed to acceptable values, but at the same time increase the ISO. If the ISO is increased to an acceptable maximum, and the photo still turns out very dark (many modern cameras have a Live View mode, which will show you the photo on the screen as it should have been when shooting) - then you have to either increase the ISO, risking getting noticeable “noise” " in the photo, or increase the shutter speed and shoot from a rest or from a tripod. In principle, the difficult task of setting these three parameters can be solved by the camera’s automation, which is what novice photographers usually use. In addition, all cameras have special preset modes: landscape, portrait, sports and so on. And for these modes, the camera program sets the parameters exactly as we discussed above: for a portrait, the aperture opens, for a landscape, the aperture closes, for sports, first of all, it reduces the shutter speed. However, automatic modes are suitable only for the simplest typical scenes. As soon as you go beyond the mindless clicking of the shutter button and you have scene photographs, this is where you can no longer rely on automation and you will have to control the parameters of aperture, shutter speed and ISO set when shooting. Example. You are photographing children playing. Novice photographers set the “Portrait” mode for this and end up with blurry and out-of-focus shots. Children move actively, so they need to be photographed with short shutter speeds, like sports scenes. Another example. You take a group portrait: several people sit in the first row, the rest stand in the second row. Is it possible to set the “portrait” mode here and open the aperture completely? No, you can’t, because the depth of field will be very small and only one row of faces will be sharp. In this case, the aperture must be set to at least 5.6 in order to obtain the desired depth of field. And this despite the fact that you are essentially shooting a portrait, albeit a collective one. And, for example, landscape photography. You are filming an ancient castle located on the opposite bank of a pond. In the frame, reeds growing in a pond appear in the foreground on the left and right. If you stop the lens down enough, as is usually done when photographing a landscape, the reeds in the foreground will become quite sharp and will distract attention from the castle in the distance. If you open the aperture, as when shooting portraits, then the reeds in the foreground will be blurry, unsharp, and when viewing the photo your attention will be focused on the castle in the distance, which is what we need. So, as you can see, not in all scenes the camera’s automation will set the , what you need. It works normally only on primitive scenes. Most often, the photographer manually sets the parameter that is most important for a given scene, and allows the camera to set the remaining parameters. All cameras have the following modes: aperture priority, when the aperture is set manually and other parameters are selected; Shutter priority, when the shutter speed is set manually. Well, the photographer can set the ISO value manually if necessary. I usually shoot in aperture priority (A), and also often manually set the ISO value. You can also shoot in programmatic mode (P), if necessary, manually setting the desired parameters (the same ISO) and controlling the ratio of aperture and shutter speed (in P mode, this pair can be changed in one direction or another).
In this article we will talk about the role of the aperture in a DSLR camera, and how to take photographs on Canon and Nikon with different aperture values.
Digital technologies today have reached a high level of image transmission quality. With just one click you can save the memorable moments of your life forever. Thus, compared to the past decade, current devices open up new possibilities and horizons for us.
In addition, modern digital devices provide the opportunity to install various attachments and lenses that allow you to adjust the amount of light in the photo, shoot landscapes at long distances without losing quality, and much more.
However, many users, even experienced ones, wonder what the aperture is for, and why it is needed on a camera or video camera.
What is a diaphragm?
The technical definition of aperture is: “The opening in the lens through which light passes to enter the camera.”
Simply put, the aperture is the hole inside the lens that allows light to enter the camera body. This is a simple concept to understand, remember how your eyes work. For example, when there is a sudden change from a bright to a dark environment, the iris of our eyes either expands or contracts, controlling the size of the pupil - the hole that allows light to penetrate further into the eye. In photography, the "pupil" of your lens is called the aperture. You can decrease or increase the aperture size to increase or decrease light reaching the camera sensor. The picture below shows the hole in the lens:
The aperture is like a "student" for your camera, which can open and close to change the amount of light passing through. Notice the nine aperture blades in this lens. They are necessary to block the penetration of light when taking a picture.
As an example, we have given two identical models of Canon digital devices. As you can see in the picture on the left, the camera lens appears to be completely open and available for light to enter - the aperture value is f/2. In the right picture we see a closed lens with a small gap, the reason for this is the high f/10 aperture.
What is the aperture in a camera?
These are shutters that are located around the lens inside its body. When you turn the lens, they move towards the center and close the gap, while they prevent some of the sun's rays from entering the camera. The diaphragm does not close completely; it leaves a small hole for the photosensitive element.
This technical solution gives very interesting effects, so experts say that the aperture provides the main tools for the creative implementation of your ideas in photographs. Besides, you probably want to see how the diaphragm works during the day and at night?
How to increase/decrease aperture on Canon?
Even a beginner can change the aperture on Canon digital devices. After all, in order to increase or decrease the aperture value, it is enough to follow several steps, which we described in detail below:
- Turn on the camera's power, and then activate the "M" or "Av". In our case, the mode was activated "M", since in this mode you can work completely manually, but if you are a beginner, use the mode "Av".
- Click on the button "Av", and at the same time turn the wheel, as in the image below. This will allow you to increase/decrease the aperture value.
How to increase/decrease aperture on Nikon?
Now let's talk about how to work with aperture on Nikon devices. Definitely, as in the case of Canon, Nikon SLR cameras also provide an intuitive interface.
But still, we will look in detail at how to change the aperture value on a Nikon DSLR camera:
- Turn on the power and activate the mode "Av" to work exclusively with the aperture value and not affect the shutter speed settings.
- Now hold down the button "Av" and at the same time spin the wheel as in the image below. This way you can increase or decrease the aperture.
- If you are a beginner and have never worked with aperture, then the first few hundred shots will probably come out with aberrations, noise or other artifacts. However, with experience, you will learn to select the correct aperture value in different lighting conditions.
What effects does a camera aperture produce?
The more you close the gap in the lens, the better the background that is located behind the object will be visible. In a situation where the aperture is fully open, only the object itself is visible, its boundaries are blurred, and the background cannot be distinguished.
If you close the aperture slightly, the outline of the subject will appear, but the background will continue to remain cloudy. At medium closure, the boundaries of the object are already well drawn, and the background is visible a little. If you close the aperture shutters as much as possible, the object and its background can be clearly seen. Be sure to watch the slideshow to understand how the aperture works. The following aperture values were considered: f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22.
Aperture f/2
f/2.8 aperture
Aperture f/4
Aperture f/5.6
When one or another equipment breaks down, many wonder which service center to choose. Now the list of companies that do repairs is quite large and continues to grow. Therefore, the choice is quite large.
In this article I will try to give some tips on what you should (or shouldn’t) pay attention to when sending your equipment in for repair. After all, the amount of money, time and nerves you spend directly depends on the right choice.
1. You should not pay attention to the respectability of the premises for receiving equipment, the number of staff and other little things. You have to pay rent for the extra square meters, and the reception girls have to be paid a salary. So the prices for services need to be raised somewhat. Of course, there are exceptions, but they are few. I do not encourage you to give your favorite laptop or printer to a semi-basement room to an incomprehensible person who is a foreman, a receptionist, and the director of a company. But a small company, in which one, but intelligent person works at the reception, should not be dismissed outright.
2. Check whether you pay for diagnostics if the technician was unable to repair the device or if you refused repairs. The requirement to pay for diagnostics in case of failure is quite normal; the technician spent his time working with your equipment. For example, I only do not charge diagnostic fees if I cannot repair the device or the repair costs more than half the price of a new one.
3. Check whether you pay for spare parts ordered by the technician if the item could not be repaired. If yes, run away from this service. You should not pay for the technician’s mistakes just because he did not correctly identify the breakdown and ordered the wrong spare part.
4. It would be a good idea to inquire about the maximum repair time. Also make sure that they contact you and give you the full cost before the repairs begin. Otherwise, you risk receiving a bill, for example, 80% of the price of a new device. And, since the repairs are completed, it will be very difficult to prove anything.
5. Read the repair receipt carefully. If you have agreed on some conditions, but others are indicated on the receipt, your verbal agreements have no force. Also pay attention to the description of the defect, appearance and configuration of the device. If something indicated is incorrect, this will enable the service center to return the device in a different configuration than in which you delivered it, with mechanical damage or with another defect. For example, you delivered a laptop with the defect “No sound”, but the receipt states “Does not work”. The service center may give you your laptop, which no longer turns on.
6. It wouldn’t hurt to ask for a list of spare parts and their costs before starting repairs and compare them with prices on the Internet. In this case, a markup of up to 40 percent is allowed. Many parts come without a warranty or may be damaged during installation. You also need to take into account the cost of delivery. Therefore, the SC should leave some reserve in terms of cost. But if the prices differ by 2-3 times, it’s worth considering.
You can also look at reviews on the Internet about a specific service or find out what service centers are in your region. For example, enter “Printer repair in Minsk” into the search. Just don’t forget, there will definitely be negativity. It is necessary to evaluate not the presence of negativity, but its quantity.
In any case, make the right choice and good luck to you!
Greetings, dear visitors. Quite often I am asked how to extend the life of a Canon cartridge or print head.
Let me make a reservation right away: first of all, we are talking about ink cartridges for Canon printers. Such as CL-511, PG-510, CL-446, PG-445, CL-441, PG-440 and others. That is, we are talking about ordinary inkjet printers and MFPs that have two cartridges. For example MP280, MP230, MG2440, E404, MG3540 and others. But this also applies to Canon printers that use a print head and ink tanks.
Let's figure out how printing occurs with these printers. I warn you right away that I will present the principle of printing in a very simplified manner.
The cartridge has an absorber - a sponge that contains ink. From this sponge they are fed into the nozzles (nozzles). Nozzles are tubes of very small diameter. Each tube contains one or more thermoelements. During printing, the thermal elements heat up, the ink boils (an air bubble is formed) and “shoots” onto the paper. I repeat, I described it very simply.
What happens if there is no ink in the nozzles? The thermoelements will still heat up. And the ink in the nozzles is also used as a coolant. Overheating will occur - the tubes (nozzles) will become deformed and/or some of the thermoelements will fail.
After which the cartridge will print poorly in some colors, or will not print at all.
I think the answer to the question “How to extend the life of a cartridge?” obvious - you need to make sure that there is always ink in it.
What about those who refill cartridges? After all, after the first refill, it no longer shows the ink level. There is a simple rule. If you need to print something, but you are not sure that you have enough ink - . It will not be worse. And perhaps this will save him.
If you expect that thanks to this advice, your cartridge will work forever, then you are mistaken. It will definitely burn. Why? Yes, because, according to the manufacturer, it is disposable (the statement does not apply to print heads using ink tanks). The main task of the manufacturer is to ensure that it is guaranteed to print the ink poured in from the factory, and then fail as quickly as possible. Yes, the manufacturer wants to do business with consumables, he also wants to eat :)
But I hope this article will help your cartridge last longer :)
There are basics in photography, without knowledge of which it is impossible to learn how to take high-quality and beautiful photographs. One of those things is understanding the exposure of a shot. In our article we will talk about shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity. It is these things that shape the exhibition and understanding how they work is necessary to get good shots. We will tell you what shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity are and how to work with them effectively.
Introduction.
Before writing what shutter speed and aperture are, a small digression. Each frame requires a certain amount of light (exposure). The camera has three options for dosing the light flux: aperture, shutter speed and sensitivity. Sensitivity is used only in cases where the situation does not allow changing shutter speed and aperture. In addition to controlling the amount of light entering the sensor, shutter speed and aperture are effective artistic tools. First you need to understand them, and with time and experience the ease of application will come. An experienced photographer uses these tools on a subconscious level.
Diaphragm.
(diaphragma - partition, Greek), in English "aperture" (aperture, English)
Diaphragm- a lens design element responsible for the diameter of the hole transmitting light to the photosensitive surface (film or matrix).
For a simple understanding of the diaphragm, I will give an analogy with a window. The wider the window shutters are open, the more light passes through the window.
Aperture is designated as f/2.8 or f:2.8, defined as the ratio of the lens entrance diameter to the focal length. Very often the concepts of an open, large aperture (f/2.8) and a large aperture number f/16 are confused. The smaller the number in the aperture designation, the more open it is.
Changing F by one value, the amount of light entering the camera changes by 2 times. This is called exposure stop. Any changes (according to the camera scales) of exposure occur in steps of 1 step. For accuracy, the step is divided into thirds, if necessary.
The aperture is a very powerful visual tool. The maximum open aperture gives a very small depth of field (depth of field of the image space). A small depth of field visually highlights an object against a blurred background.
To obtain a large depth of field, a maximally closed aperture is used. To get greater depth of field in your frame, use an aperture number of 8 or larger. However, when playing with aperture values, remember that approaching extreme aperture values has the following dangers. When open, the sharpness readings are the worst, and when closed, all the dust on the matrix will be visible in the frame (for digital cameras).
A large depth of field is more suitable for landscape photography, when the viewer will be interested in seeing all the details of the photo.
Excerpt.
Excerpt- the time interval for which the shutter is opened to transmit light to the photosensitive element.
Again, the analogy of an open window will help. The longer the shutters are open, the more light will pass through.
Shutter speed is always measured in seconds and milliseconds. Indicated as: 1/200, the camera displays only the denominator: 200. If the shutter speed is a second or longer, it is indicated as 2″ i.e. 2 seconds.
The minimum shutter speed when shooting handheld (to get a sharp shot) is not constant and depends on the focal length. The relationship is inverse, i.e. for 300mm it is better to use shutter speeds faster than 1/300.
Long shutter speeds highlight the movement of objects. For example, tracking photography - at slow shutter speeds, 1/60 or longer, the camera follows the subject, so the background is blurred, but the subject remains sharp.
Flowing water turns into frozen figures in a long exposure.
I use very short shutter speeds to freeze a moment, such as the splash of a falling drop or a car flying past.
ISO sensitivity.
Sensitivity- this is a purely technical concept that denotes the sensitivity of the matrix (or film) to light. Imagine sunbathing people on the beach. Those with more sensitive skin will tan faster, i.e. he needs less light for this. Another person, on the contrary, needs more light to tan, because he has low sensitivity.
Sensitivity is directly related to the amount of noise. The higher the ISO, the more noise, and the grain size of the film. Why? Purely technically, this is generally the topic of an extended article.
At ISO 100, the signal is removed from the matrix without amplification, at 200 it is amplified by 2 times, and so on. With any amplification, interference and distortion appear, and the greater the amplification, the more side effects. They are called noises.
The intensity of noise varies on different cameras. At minimum ISO, noise is not visible and is also less visible when processing the photo. Starting from ISO 600, almost all cameras are quite noisy and to get a high-quality shot you need to use noise reduction programs.
Bottom line
Together, the shutter speed and aperture values form an exposure pair (the optimal, correct combination of shutter speed and aperture for given lighting conditions). Exposure value determines the exposure of the frame. Previously, exposure meters were used to determine the shutter speed based on the amount of light and aperture. Previously, the exposure meter was used as a separate device; today it is built into almost every camera.
Every DSLR camera has shutter priority and aperture priority modes. In aperture priority mode, the aperture is selected, and the camera, analyzing the light level, selects the shutter speed. The opposite is true in shutter priority mode. I almost always use aperture priority, it allows me to work with depth of field. If there is a need to shoot movement, I use shutter priority mode.
In our next articles, we will continue to talk about the basics of photography. After all, it is in these things that the understanding of the art of photography lies. Knowing them, you can create the shots you want.
Greetings, dear readers of my blog. I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. Yesterday I came across a number of photographs by a so-called “professional” photographer, and it seems that many simply do not understand the camera aperture.
Therefore, I decided to write a detailed article about this factor so that people at least understand the main points and how to use it. Are you aware that aperture affects the quality of photographs? You may be wondering how? This is what we will talk about in this article.
Before continuing to read the article, first read and. The quality of your photo depends on these parameters.
After familiarizing yourself with the material, you will understand the basic principle of aperture operation, and also learn how to set various parameters for shooting your scenes. Well, is it time to get started?
When buying a camera, many people immediately start practicing without touching on the theoretical part. After some time, the passion and spirit of photographers becomes weaker and weaker; many leave their “machines” to gather dust on the shelves, because, after tinkering a little with the settings, they get pictures that do not satisfy their ambitions.
To prevent this from happening to you, you must first understand the theory in order to get better quality work, please yourself and your loved ones, and in the future, your partners!
What is a diaphragm?
What is the aperture in a camera, a similar question is often asked by newcomers to the art of photography, and after a short acquaintance with the aperture structure, they immediately begin shooting without understanding the essence and nuances of using the “hole”, thereby obtaining very typical photos without plot and zest.
You're probably wondering "hole"? And what does she have to do with it? In the vocabulary of photographers, aperture is also called a hole or hole. So, this is a special mechanism in the form of a ring, consisting of petals, which regulates the passage of a given amount of light to the camera matrix.
The more open the petals, the more light falls on the matrix, and vice versa, the less open the petals, the less light.
For beginners, this designation of the term may seem very complicated, and to understand what it is and how the opening mechanism works, you can simply imagine the eye, namely, the wider the pupil is slightly open, the more light falls on the retina and vice versa. Light determines the level of exposure.
Principle of operation
After becoming familiar with the mechanism of action, it is necessary to understand how it works, is determined and changes. Anyone who has worked with a camera has come across the f value and a series of numbers, this is the definition of aperture, which can be changed and adjusted to suit different scenes.
The aperture row represents a certain number of numbers with an f value, namely: f/1.4; f/2; f/2.8, etc. Basically, the aperture line ends at f/22. These numbers indicate how open the blades in the lens are, thereby determining the depth of field and exposure.
The main trick is that the smaller the aperture value, which, by the way, is expressed in numbers, the wider the aperture. Therefore, it will be maximally open at f/1.4, and at f/22 the “hole” will be minimally open. This operating mechanism applies to all cameras, Nikon, Sanon and others.
How does aperture affect exposure?
Now we come to the question of the influence of the width of the petal opening on the exposure. The idea is that the wider it is open, the lighter the photo will be. Working with light is very important when shooting any subject. If we talk about practice, then, for example, when shooting in a darkened room, it is better to open the aperture wider (up to f/5.6), and when shooting outdoors on a clear day, the aperture should be closed (from f/8 to f/16 ), so that there is no so-called “overexposure”.
Here you also need to consider what effect you want to achieve. If you want to blur the background, then the hole should be as open as possible, 2.8 or 3.5.
The effect of aperture values on depth of field
Aperture settings change depth of field, which is perhaps one of the most important things in photography. This designation refers to a certain zone in the picture, which is distinguished by sharpness, or rather, not just a zone, but, one might say, a range of distances.
Aperture and depth of field are interconnected. This connection is based on the aperture parameters, namely, if the ring is fully open, f/1.8, then there can be no talk of great sharpness.
With an open aperture, the depth of field is very small, and the specific subject on which you are focused will be in focus, and the background will be “blurred”, but this method is also “popular”, for example, when shooting portraits, where attention is focused on the eyes of the model , and the background turns out blurry.
For portrait photography, it is advisable to use a width from f/4 to f/8, with such a “hole” width, the model will be visible in the picture, and at the same time the background behind will be slightly pleasantly blurred, which will give a beautiful effect to the photograph.
Aperture Settings
How to choose the appropriate value for shooting? This is quite simple, the main thing you need to know is how to set the necessary values for shooting. So, the aperture (f/1.8) is suitable for shooting in dimly lit rooms. Such photos should be taken when photographing various miniature objects or if you want to highlight a particular detail, for example, an eye or a button on a shirt.
A width of f/4 is suitable for portrait photography, with an average amount of light in the room. The main thing is not to “miss” when shooting with such values, thereby highlighting, for example, the shoulder, and not the desired face of the model.
With a width of f/5.6 you can safely “click” a full-length model, and with a value of f/8 it’s worth shooting a group of people.
In sunlight, it is worth using f/16 and f/22 as they will perfectly match the landscapes.
Today, the market for types and manufacturers of cameras is crowded, including the well-known Canon and Nikon, and other lesser-known brands, such as Fujifilm, Pentax and others. No matter what kind of camera you have, the main thing is to know the basics of photography, choose the right light and understand parameters such as shutter speed, aperture and ISO.
After reading this article, you should clearly understand what aperture is, how to use it, and how to control it to shoot your own scenes. All that remains is to pick up a camera and begin such a wonderful art as photography!
My big advice to you. Take as many photographs as possible and practice. Take your camera with you everywhere. And never stop there!
And also, I wanted to recommend to you, just a superb video course “ Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0" All the intricacies of obtaining high-quality photography are explained in great detail, with the help of a video. Why this particular course? It's simple, I've looked at many courses on the Internet, and none of them surpassed the course I recommended in terms of quality and volume of information. And some actually misled me.
Good luck with your creativity! See you soon on my blog.
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
