We create double exposure portraits. Double exposure in Photoshop

Intro to popular series True Detective got a lot of people talking about the double exposure effect. I made this tutorial to get as close to the original effect as possible. I hope you will enjoy!

I recently noticed that the double exposure effect has gained incredible popularity on the Internet. This technique is no longer new, but it began to be actively discussed from the first days after the film's release. The essence of the technique is this: if you took a photo and, without rewinding the film, took another photo, you get a double exposure. Two pictures in one. Many digital cameras allow you to simulate this effect.

Final result:

We've used a similar approach in Photoshop for years, where two photos are combined using a blend mode. Screen(Screen) or Replacement with light(Lighten). This creates a simulation of two projectors overlapping each other. Of course, you don't need to know about this history to create these effects.

Going back to the series, the intro effect was applied to video, but this is what revived the popularity of double exposure. (I repeat again, it is no longer new, but it has sharply become popular). I've seen many tutorials on this topic, some good and some useless. I want to offer you my method of working with this technique. I used the original True Detective art for inspiration and recreated it in detail with different images but the same style.

I took two images from Adobe Stock. You can use your own versions or download photos with watermarks from the links at the beginning of the lesson.

I started with two photographs. I wanted a close-up of a man in a suit, with a loose tie and a strong chin, that would capture the True Detective vibe as much as possible.

For the second photo I wanted something industrial with long vertical buildings so I chose this image. I also knew I could play with the smoke.

Step 1

The first thing to do is remove the background from the photo with the man. Use the tool Quick selection(Quick selection). If you don't know how to use this tool, here is my tutorial (http://photoshopcafe.com/tutorials/refine-edge/refine-edge.htm).

Select the background around the man, use the button Alt to deselect unnecessary areas.

Step 2

Click on the button Refine edge(Refine edge) at the top of the working window.

Check the box next to the item "Smart" radius(Smart Radius), set the parameter Radius(Radius) by 2-4 pixels.

I also set the option Smooth(Smooth) by 4 pixels (this is optional).

Walk with a brush Specify radius(Refine Selection) around the hair.

For string Conclusion(Output) select New layer with layer mask(New Layer with Layer Mask).

Click OK.

Step 3

Now you should have a man on a new transparent layer with a layer mask on it. If something doesn't work, go back to step 2 and make sure you didn't miss anything.

Step 4

Place both images on one document, to do this, open the tab with image 2.

Drag the plant to the tab with the man, a document with his photo will open.

Without releasing the left mouse button, drag the photo of the plant to the middle and release. The image should appear on a new layer.

The result should look like this.

It's time to combine two images into one

Step 5

Hover over the dividing line between layers.

Press and hold the key Alt. You will see an arrow pointing down. Click to "crop" the layer to the shape of the layer below it.

Step 6: Trimming

For the art we are creating, we will only need the top of the shoulders. Let's trim the document to the right size. Select a tool Frame(Cropping Tool).

Drag the cropping area.

Make sure the checkbox is checked Remove clipped pixels(Delete Cropped Pixels) in the upper part of the working window is removed. This will save the pixels, allowing us to tweak things later.

Click Enter, applying the changes.

Step 7: Working with Color

Now there is a lot of color in our photography. The final result shouldn't look like this. However, there is no need to completely desaturate the image, I have a better idea.

Choose a new base color similar to the one I chose - #e2d6b2. You can choose a color of your choice or change it later.

Create a new layer, place it below all the others and fill it with the main color (Alt + Backspace). Now, instead of emptiness, we have a background.

Duplicate the layer by clicking (Ctrl + J).

Drag the duplicate, placing it above all the others. IN this moment you will see just a fill. Change the blending mode to Chroma(Color). Now the image will receive the necessary shade, while maintaining the illumination.

Step 8: Blending and Masking Layers

Now let's get to the interesting stuff.

Select the industrial photo layer (layer 1). Change its blending mode to Replacement with light(Lighten). ( Additional Information for geeks: This mode simulates two projectors aimed at one screen. One shows the top picture, the second shows the bottom).

You can already start to see this cool effect.

We have created a real double exposure, which can be seen in the camera. If that's all you wanted, you can stop. All subsequent steps will give the work the style of "True Detective".

Step 9

Since the top layer (layer 1) is a clipping mask, we can move it around freely and still have the image inside the face. I repositioned the photo so that the clouds of smoke showed on the right.

Notice that the silhouette of the head is still visible on the right side? Let's fix this.

Step 10

Click (Ctrl + L) to open the window Levels(Levels).

Drag the white slider to remove the shadows. You may also need to move the midtone slider as I did.

The purpose of this step is to make the overlapping areas invisible, for an accurate result you will need to play with the levels for some time. This is part of the magic that blend modes provide.

Step 11. Mask the effect

Now that we have adjusted the layers, we can bring back part of the lower half of the face and smoothly blend it with the shape of the top.

(Layer 1 is still active). Click on the icon Add a layer mask(Add Layer Mask). It is located at the bottom of the panel Layers(Layers panel).

Select a soft black brush and paint over an area of ​​the layer mask to hide layer 1 and show the lower part of the face. When you paint with black on the mask, you will remove unnecessary plant details and allow the face to show. Use white to hide the face and show off the plant.

If you want to go beyond the face and expand the plant, do the following.

You'll notice that we have a mask for the head layer (we created it with the Refine edge(Refine edge) If you select this mask and paint part of it white, you can expand the boundaries and show part of the plant.

Use white to show off the smoke, black to hide it and clean up areas where you've gone too far.

Step 12. Stretch the effect

Already the work looks quite good, but the plant needs some tweaking. Let's tighten the top of the image to better fit the shape of the head.

Select the factory layer (not the mask).

Click (Ctrl + T) For Free transformation(Free Transform).

Hold down the key Shift and drag the corner to resize proportionally.

Shrink the photo a little. The chimneys should line up with the edges of the head. The layer can also be moved by clicking and dragging the area inside the rectangle.

When you are happy with the result, click Enter, applying all changes.

Paint over part of the mask, cleaning up and enhancing the look you are going for. We're almost done with the overall effect. Now I want to replicate the vintage effect of the film by adding some colors.

Step 13: Add Tint to the Shadows

I noticed that in the original intro the shadows have a reddish tint to them.

Create a new layer and fill it with red.

Change Blend Mode(Blending Mode) on Chroma(Color).

Almost done.

Select the red layer, click on the " fx" at the bottom of the Layers panel. From the list that opens, select Blending Options(Blending options).

Now we need a section Extra options(Advanced Blending Mode). See the sliders Overlay if(Blend If)?

Drag the white slider to the left, hiding the layer's effect in the highlight areas of the photo. However, we will need to split this triangular slider.

Press and hold the key Alt, then pull out one of the slider halves.

Play with the slider values ​​until you get a red tint just for the shadows.

Reduce Opacity(Opacity) at my discretion, I chose 56%.

Step 14: Add Grain

Let's add some grain for a more cinematic look.

Create a new layer, but wait! Hold down the key Alt before clicking on the icon New layer(New Layer). This will open the options window.

Select Mode(Mode) Overlap(Overlay).

The line will appear below "Perform Fill" neutral color"Overlap" mode(gray 50%)"(Fill with Overlay-neutral color 50% gray). Check the box next to this item, click OK.

You won't see anything now, but the new layer will be 50% full. gray and will have a blending mode - Overlap(Overlay). Ideal settings for adding grain (this effect cannot be applied to an empty layer, which is why we performed this step).

Go to menu Filter > Noise > Add Noise(Choose>Filter>Noise>Add noise).

Select items According to Gauss(Gaussian) and Monochrome(Monochromatic).

I have installed Quantity(Amount) by 37% (approximately). Everything will depend on the resolution of your work and the desired effect.

Click OK for applying noise. You can change the opacity if the effect seems too strong.

Step 15. Finishing touches

(Font Avenir Next Condensed - Ulta Light).

I decided to make the color less saturated, so I lowered the opacity of the red fill layer.

The final image should have more contrast.

Create a new adjustment layer - Levels(Levels) right above the two photo layers. We want the effect of this layer to be reflected only in the photos and not affect the background.

"Crop" the selection to the bottom layer by clicking on the small icon at the bottom of the Levels panel, as shown in the figure.

You should get something like this.

Adjust the middle slider to create contrast in the midtones and complete the look. It will also give you a more grainy effect.

For the final effect, let's lighten the overall color a little. Select the layer with the main color, click (Ctrl + L) to open the window Levels(Levels). Move the white slider a little to the left.

This is what the completed work looks like.

I know you've done a lot of work! This is a really in-depth tutorial that covers a lot of techniques you can use to style your work.

I achieved this image using the same techniques, but this time with a softer theme.

Double exposure- This creative technique photography where two different images are combined into one frame.

This effect is also known as multi-exposure (depending on the final number of images stacked on top of each other), and you can take these photos in-camera - without any Photoshop skills. Here's a guide to getting started with this technique using digital SLR camera with multiple exposure mode. This mode is supported by Nikon D800 and Canon 5D Mark III cameras.

Not sure if your camera has a multiple exposure mode? Check the manual or do an internet search to find out.

Creating silhouettes.

You may have seen photographs where the silhouette contains a template within itself. This is just one example of double or multiple exposure.

You will need:

  • Digital camera with multiple exposure mode.
  • Silhouette as a base image.
  • Silhouette Fill
In this example I will show you how to do this using a Canon camera.

First, find a topic. It could be a person or any other object. The most important part is to have a definite plan.

As with any silhouette, try to position the subject in the frame so that it is heavily shadowed against the background to achieve the best effect. It could be the sky, or even a white wall - it can help on cloudy days.


The silhouette will look better if there is a strong light source coming from behind the subject.

Once you are satisfied with the silhouette you captured, enter multiple exposure mode. On the 5D Mark III screen, tap the brush icon and scroll to the multiple exposure option.



Move the switch to the "On: Func/Ctrl" position. Leave the rest of the settings unchanged as default. You can also choose to save all the images separately in case you need to repeat the process with different meanings excerpts.



Go to Select Image for Multi Exposure and select the silhouette you previously captured using the Set button. Confirming this selection will take you back to the multiple exposure menu.

The easiest way to compose a finished photo is to use live display. Turn it on and you will see a silhouette superimposed on the display.

Now the fun begins. Find a template for the background of the silhouette - it could be trees or flowers, or really anything. The only limitation will be your imagination.



As a general rule, it's a good idea to underexpose that second shot slightly from what the meter is telling you (or use exposure compensation if you're in Program mode). This is because the default option remains Additive as a blend mode that combines the exposure of both images.

Take a second image, give the camera some time to process and voila - your multiple exposure silhouette is ready.



As with all photographic techniques, this technique takes some time to master and produce acceptable results. You can experiment with positioning the fill in the silhouette.

Look at examples of the work of a photographer who was one of the first to use this technique - Dan Mountford.

Multiplicity: cloning yourself.

Another way to experiment with multiple exposures in camera is to clone an object (or yourself).

You will need:

  • Camera with multiple exposure mode.
  • Tripod.
  • Object of photography. Or using yourself as an object, but then you'll need a remote control remote control.
Set up your camera on a tripod, prepare your subject, and take a photo.

If you're using Nikon, turn on multiple exposure. Press the menu button and then find multiple exposure in the shooting menu. Turn it on and select one photo. Select the number of frames you want to combine into the final photo. If you want three clones, select three photos.



Turn on automatic gain so that frames are aligned to the last shot rather than stacked.

Place the subject in the first position and take a photo. You can frame yourself, but you'll either need to have someone press the shutter button or use a remote control. Change the position of the subject and repeat the process as many times as necessary, and the camera itself will automatically combine them into the finished photo.

Depending on the subject and the background, you may find that the subject is partially ghostlike. Without the help of an editing program like Photoshop, it can be difficult to get good results where subjects are colored evenly, but there are a few things you can do to improve the results in-camera.

If you are using Nikon, turn off Active D-illumination. Choose more dark background, rather than filming on the street. A black background gives the best results. You can also increase the amount of light on your subject by using flash. Otherwise, adjust the exposure so that the lens collects more light by opening the aperture or raising the ISO.



Remember, you can use these techniques with any camera that has a multiple exposure mode. The method (and the names of items in the camera menu) may differ slightly from model to model, but general principle the same. Start experimenting and have fun with creative photography.

The double exposure effect refers to artistic photography. Using this technique, you can create the effect of overlaying and combining photos. Such effects are created in graphic editors, such as Photoshop. But there are also cameras with the ability to shoot in double exposure mode.

Double exposure in photography means that you take two shots in one shot. different objects. This technique is also called double exposure.

This effect is easily achievable on film cameras, when you can press the start button twice without spinning the film. You will get two images on one frame. In digital technology, the multiple exposure effect is only possible in cameras where it is provided for in the menu, and the camera knows how to shoot in this mode.


The following cameras can have a built-in double exposure mode: Canon EOS 5D Mark III, 1D X and 70D, most digital Nikon cameras, Fujifilm's X-Pro1 and X100s cameras, and the Olympus OM-D E-M5. These photos may require RAW format. To simplify the creation of the effect, you can use real-time shooting in live mode. In the menu, the mode may be called multiple exposure.


Creating a double exposure effect in your camera:

  1. Take a silhouette photo. You need to choose as clean a background as possible, not very bright. For example, the background could be the sky at sunset.
  2. Select the structure to fill in the photo. The structure should also preferably be on a clean background, without unnecessary details.
  3. Now turn on the camera and prepare the saved picture with the silhouette. In the camera settings, select multiple exposure mode and turn on real-time viewing.
  4. Leave the photo viewing mode and point the camera at the structure (trees, buildings, leaves, etc.). You need to compare the images, place the texture inside the silhouette. Shoot with the selected parameters and the camera itself will combine the images.

Video about using double exposure in a camera:

Multiple exposures in the works of photographers

Famous photographers who use multiple exposures in their works.

Double exposure is the superimposition of one photograph on top of another with the illusion of uniformity and registration. This effect was achieved by repeatedly photographing the same frame of film without rewinding.

Modern digital cameras are able to emulate (fake) double exposure using software processing. Photoshop gives us the opportunity to create such photographs as our imagination tells us.

In this lesson we will combine a photo of a girl with a landscape. The result of processing can be seen in the preview of this article.

Source materials for the lesson:

1. Model.

2. Landscape with fog.

To further process the image, we will need to separate the model from the background. There is already such a lesson on the site, study it, because without these skills it is impossible to work in Photoshop.

Removing a background and placing a landscape in a document

So, open the photo with the model in the editor and remove the background.

1. Find a picture with a landscape and drag it into the Photoshop work area onto the document you are editing.

2. We need to ensure that the landscape is displayed only on the model. To do this, hold down the key ALT and click on the border between the layers. The cursor should change shape.

You will get the following:

As you can see, now the landscape follows the contours of the model. It is called "clipping mask".
The landscape picture can be moved, stretched or rotated if necessary.

3. Press the key combination CTRL+T and take the necessary actions.

Overlay a semi-transparent copy

The next steps will require a little care.

1. You need to go to the layer with the model and create a copy of it using the keyboard shortcut CTRL+J.

2. Then go to the bottom layer and drag it to the very top of the palette.

3. The blending mode for the top layer needs to be changed to "Screen".

Enhance Contrast

To enhance the contrast (bring out details), apply an adjustment layer "Levels" and darken the top layer a little.

In the layer settings window, you need to click on the snap button.

Then go to the layers palette, right-click on the layer "Levels" and select the item "Merge with Previous".

Shaping the composition

Preparatory work has been completed. Now we will give shape to our composition.

1. First, let's create a mask for the top layer with the model.

2. Then take a brush.

The brush should be "soft round",

black color.

The size must be large enough.

3. With this brush, being on the mask, we paint over areas on the layer with the model, revealing the forest.

4. Go to the landscape layer and create a mask again. Using the same brush, we erase the border between the images on the girl’s neck, and also remove excess from the nose, eyes, chin, in general, from the face.

Background

It's time to set the background for the composition.

1. Create a new layer and move it to the very bottom of the palette.

2. Then press on the keyboard SHIFT+F5, thereby opening the fill settings window. Select from the drop-down list "Color" and click with the cursor, which has taken the shape of a pipette, on the lightest tone. Click OK.

We get a light background.

Transition Smoothing

As you can see, there is a sharp border at the very top of the image. Choosing a tool "Move",

go to the landscape layer and move it a little to the left, making the border disappear.

The basis of the composition is ready, all that remains is to tint it and give it overall completeness.

Toning

1. Create an adjustment layer "Gradient Map",

open the gradient palette and click on the icon in the upper right corner.

In the context menu, select the set "Photographic Toning",

we agree with the replacement.

For toning, I chose the gradient shown in the screenshot. It's called "Gold-sepia".

3. At the bottom of the hairstyle you can see an area that is too dark. Some details of the forest were lost in this shadow. Create another adjustment layer called "Curves".

We put a point on the curve and bend it to the left and up, achieving the appearance of details in the darkened area.

We will leave the effect only in the right places, so we do not pay attention to possible overexposure.

4. Once the settings are complete, go to the layers palette, activate the layer mask with curves and press the keyboard shortcut CTRL+I. The mask will turn black and the brightening effect will disappear.

5. Then take the same brush as before, but white. Set the opacity 25 – 30% .

Using a brush, we carefully go over the darkened areas, revealing the details.

6. The atmosphere of such compositions involves the use of muted, desaturated colors. Reduce the saturation of the image using an adjustment layer "Hue/Saturation".

Hi all! Today we will talk about what it is and how to create it in Photoshop.

So, let's go!

Traditionally created by photographers, they use their camera to combine two separate photographs to create an unusual abstract image.

However, we can also fake this effect in Photoshop, which actually gives us more control over the final result.

Follow this tutorial step by step and you'll create the effect with ease. double exposure. And we will do this with the help of several simple techniques selecting objects and creating masks.

Final result:

Double exposure is not just a popular effect among photographers, it is a technique that is also used by artists and designers to create cool abstract works. You can see this effect on many photo album covers, as well as in the opening credits of popular films.

Today we will create this effect in Photoshop. This is relatively easy to do, but the quality of the final work depends on the size and clarity of the photos you choose.

The most popular combination is the union portrait photography And natural landscape, so I took some cool photos from a free stock image site. First we will take a profile photo of a girl from the Stockvalut website. My goal was to find a photo with a clean background to make it easier to highlight the subject we would be working with. The second image is beautiful photo landscape from Unsplash.

One of the advantages of creating double exposure The thing about Photoshop is that you can test many images and choose the ones that give the best results.

Step 1. Separate the portrait from the background

We'll start by separating the portrait from the background. We will do this using the Pen tool - we will create a closed contour around the girl’s face.

Outline the hair approximately, cutting off the tousled strands a little so as not to capture the background when highlighting.

As soon as you finish forming the outline, right-click on it and select Select Area from the context menu. Set the Feather Radius to 0.5 px.

Step 2. Correcting the hair highlight

Now let's work with the hair. Go to Select > Refine Edge... and start increasing the Radius and Offset Edge options to add ruffled tufts of hair to the selection area.

Extending the selection boundaries will also cause a background areola to appear around the face. To get rid of it, use the Erase Refinement tool.

You can also use the Refine Radius tool (brush icon) to add stray hairs that were not included into the selection.

Once you're done creating the selection, copy the contents and paste it onto a new layer. Add a new layer with a white fill to separate the newly created selection layer from the background layer, placing it between them.

Step 3. Add a Landscape Image

Open the landscape image and paste it into the document you are working with. Ctrl-click on the layer thumbnail with the cut-out portrait to load the selection. Then select the landscape layer and click on the layer mask button to hide the part of the layer that is not included in the selection.

Detach the mask from the image by clicking on the link icon between the layer and mask thumbnail. This will allow you to move and scale the landscape without affecting the mask, so you can find the best position.

Step 4. Add light facial features

Create a duplicate of the cut out portrait layer and place it above the other layers. Add a new Levels adjustment layer and then begin to darken the image by moving the Input and Output sliders.

Change the Blend Mode of the newly created portrait layer to Screen to turn all dark areas transparent. Darkening the image using Levels will leave only a slight ghostly image after overlay, which can always be changed using the appropriate adjustment layer.

Add a layer mask and use a large soft brush to erase some areas to improve the blending effect. Painting with a black brush on the layer mask hides the area you are painting on, while painting with a white brush shows it again.

Choose some kind of pipette light color from the image and fill the background layer with it.

Step 5. Adjusting the final result

As you may have noticed, there is a shadowed area at the top of the image due to the overlap of the girl's hair. In order to hide it, create a new layer and paint this area with a soft brush. big size, take the same color as in the previous step. You can also use a layer mask.

Let's create a new adjustment layer above all layers - Black and White... and reduce its opacity to 30% to mute the colors a little.

Finally, add a Gradient Map adjustment layer. For the light tone, take light beige color #e2d9d1, for the midtones, dark brown color - #52463b, and for the shadows, take dark blue color - #0e1133. Change the adjustment layer's Blend Mode to Color.

Final result:

Today we created double exposure in Photoshop. By using different photographs as portraits and landscapes, you can get a lot of various options work in the end.

Thank you for reading to the end. See you again!

Translator: Sergey Zastavny;

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