DIY natural house paint recipe. How to make oil paints at home

Natural paint is 10 times cheaper! A very sensible article with personal practical experience!

When last time have you painted your house? :)

This year I had to feel the price of paint. And at the same time I felt how the system... “protects” us from unnecessary knowledge and feeds on it.

I decided to paint a house that is already 6 years old, as well as a workshop and a guest house. Until they turn gray. And how it began: jar after jar, this wasn’t enough, this didn’t fit. As a result, paint is the second largest expense this season - 20 thousand rubles.

I think this is unreasonable. It’s like when a woman buys a dress, if she sews beautifully herself, but is too lazy to find a suitable pattern.

It’s one thing to buy seedlings, seeds, mycorrhizae for 20,000 rubles - this is an investment for centuries! Or dig a pond forever. Or buy 20,000 boards and roofing to add a veranda - it will definitely last for 20 years.

I decided that it was unwise to invest money in insignificant things. Moreover, you can make the paint yourself. Better quality, in any quantity and very cheap!

I first learned about homemade paint from friends in the Ark - they painted their house this way. Several years have passed and I have matured. The following is information from them.

Hello, Vadim!

Here is the Finnish composition that we used and the recipe for its preparation. I don’t remember where I copied it from.

Finnish paint recipe

REMEMBER how Tom Sawyer struggled when Aunt Polly made him paint the fence? It turned out that we all spend so much effort on painting wooden structures in vain.

Practical residents of Finland have found that oil paint does not contribute to the durability of wooden houses. Studies have shown that moisture accumulates under the paint, creating an optimal environment for the development of microorganisms that destroy wood.

It’s better to use our Finnish composition, they say. Indeed, such houses, picket fences, stand for decades without being destroyed. I propose to promote more widely in Russia the Finnish composition for painting houses, buildings, and fences. This will save billions and better preserve the housing stock and outbuildings. The Finnish composition, frankly speaking, is a godsend for village residents and gardeners.

Finnish composition for painting:

rye or wheat flour - 720 g
iron sulfate - 1560 g
table salt - 360 g
dry lime pigment - 1560 g
water - 9 l

The highlight, as they say, lies in strict adherence to the technology of preparing the Finnish composition. First, prepare the paste. Take flour and gradually add cold water in order to bring the flour to the consistency of thick sour cream. The remainder of 6 liters of water is added while hot. Now the paste is filtered and put on fire.

Stirring constantly, add salt, then iron sulfate, dry lime pigment. Now pour in the rest of the water (hot) to obtain a working paint composition.

Apply to the surface with a brush in two passes. Solution consumption - 300 g per square meter. If the house or picket fence was previously painted with oil paint, it should be completely cleaned off. No primer required. A picket fence treated with a Finnish compound can last up to 20 years without repair.

It is known that houses painted with oil paint have poor air flow. The composition is free of this drawback. It would be advisable to start producing kits of Finnish composition with instructions attached. Everyone will benefit.

Our experience:

We read this recipe, got inspired and decided to try it. Iron sulfate is no longer sold in stores (or you have to look hard for it), but it was at the Bird Market in Moscow. Surely it is on some bases.

The “lime pigment” was a bigger mystery for us. It took a little longer to find him. First, it was necessary to understand what it was in order to be able to explain to the sellers (they all, as one, ask again: “Lime?” - “No” - “Chalk?” - “No - pigment. Lime.” - “What This?")

As a result, we found some base in the Moscow region selling pigments. We made a joint purchase, collecting orders for the settlement.

When we had all the ingredients, we prepared the paint according to the specified recipe. We wrapped the bucket in a blanket and painted the house with the hot mixture, using regular brushes and cut plastic canisters as temporary containers.

Notes

1. If the house has wooden elements If you want to leave the natural wood color, do not touch them with paint: iron sulfate immediately darkens the wood. You can't see it under the paint, but if you wash it off, there will be wood there gray(same as uncovered old boards).

2. The heads of galvanized nails will lose their zinc layer (iron is reduced from vitriol, oxidizing zinc. So you don’t have to buy galvanized nails, but just simple iron ones, they are cheaper).

3. You need sunny weather during painting and a couple of days after it.

4. When it rains, a wet wall becomes slightly smeared. We reassure ourselves that the walls of the house were not built to be rubbed against in the rain :) (there is a composition with the addition of drying oil: they write that it does not smear).

5. It's been 7 years (as of 2014), the paint is holding up. In the places most intensively watered by rain, a transparency effect appeared and the color was slightly lost. But you can see the texture of the wood and it still creates a pleasant look. In any case, it is not at all sloppy (in dry weather the wall looks more beautiful than in wet weather).

6. Painting a two-story house measuring 6x6 m in two layers cost 260 rubles (two hundred and sixty rubles, and most of the price is pigment).

Summary. Overall, the result is good. The house looks satisfactory. Summer 2014 I want to repaint it with linseed oil.

Linseed oil has one effect that is why it is used to coat wood: when heated and applied to wood, it absorbs and dries to form a durable protective layer. Drying occurs because flaxseed oil contains unsaturated fatty acids (omega-3 and others). Not all oils dry out over time; some form a non-drying film that is sticky to the touch.

All “ordinary” drying oils sold in stores contain a mixture of vegetable and synthetic oils. By themselves, they dry worse than heated linseed oil (or do not dry at all). To make it convenient for painters (so as not to heat it up and then wait for it to dry), manufacturers add special substances (driers) to the oil mixture to speed up the drying process of the oil.

Unfortunately, the most common and simplest (cheapest) additive is lead compounds. Therefore, drying oil is not recommended for indoor use.

Technical flaxseed oil may not be so easy to get, but almost every supermarket has regular edible flaxseed oil, which costs about 100 rubles per half liter (there are more expensive ones, but why?). Maybe you’ll be lucky enough to buy something that’s expired, if you ask a merchandiser.

Floor covering

There is also an interesting experience in covering a floor with linseed oil and wax.

The oil is applied to the surface not as when painting, but rubbed in in small quantities: you dip the brush a little and then rub it with force over as large a surface as possible. Naturally, the boards should not only be dry and planed, but also sanded; this reduces oil consumption and makes the surface more pleasant to the touch, almost glossy.

Oil rubbing job is good exercise stress:). But the better you rub it, the better the coating will be. Don't forget about the oil temperature. If it has cooled down, you need to heat it up again (hot oil penetrates deeper into the wood).

So I covered half the floor on the second floor with one coat. Three years later, the coating not only did not wear off, but became even smoother and matte-glossy (an intermediate option between gloss and a simple matte board). The color of the wood has not changed at all.

Since I only covered half the floor (I didn’t have time then, and then there was no time), the difference between the covered and uncovered floor is now visible. The coated one looks just as good as it did 3 years ago, probably even better due to the extra polishing done by the feet. The uncovered floor took on a slightly grayish, faded tint (compared to the coated one) and dried out more.

There is something to compare this with: with the bare floor on the veranda and the floor on the first floor covered with “yacht varnish”. An uncovered floor will look a little grey, and the varnish will crack, scratch, and wear off over time (partly due to the softness of the spruce), and the cracks, scratches, and wear will darken. And this happens already after 2-3 years of operation.

Summary:

If I had known in advance, I would have immediately covered the entire floor with heated linseed oil and wax (however, there is no experience yet of observing the coating in places of the most intense abrasive wear, on the veranda, in the hallway). But for now, this is the best and most durable option, and very inexpensive.

“Yacht varnishes” are apparently more suitable for hard wood. But still it cracks, gets dirty, gets wiped off. After 3 years the appearance is already sloppy.

In those places of the house where people rarely set foot, you can simply leave the wooden floor. It does fade a little over time, but that's not a problem.

Master class from Elena Kryuchkova. Acrylic is expensive, oil is expensive, and it also takes a long time to dry. What if you just want to try painting something on canvas? Just one picture for which you don’t want to spend “mad thousands” on paints that will then just sit idle? Or you are just learning, or drawing with children, or just drawing for yourself. In any of these cases, the gouache + PVA glue duo comes to the rescue.

My ceramist friends taught me this technique, and I used this mixture for a long time both for drawing on canvas and for painting figurines - yes, it can be used for anything. By the way, they say that boxes with traditional ornaments are painted with the same mixture.

After mixing with PVA, gouache becomes more durable, fits well on canvas or other surface, does not crumble, and also holds volume. And all this is on long years(the title picture was drawn 6 years ago and still no changes).

At the same time, if the work did not work out or is boring, open the tap with hot water and in one minute everything is washed away almost without a trace. And the canvas does not disappear, but goes back to work.

What you will need:

• PVA glue
• the most common gouache - 9 or 12 colors
• stacks or some sticks for mixing paints
• what you will draw on
• brushes (I use flat ones, like for oil)
• paper or rag for wiping brushes and stacks
• palette
• inspiration

We pour PVA glue into the palette cell at a rate of approximately 1 to 1 with paint, or 1 to 2 - look at the volume, the thickness of the paint, it is better to first experiment with different proportions.

Mix with paint. If you need to get a new shade, then first mix this shade, and then pour in PVA, because until it dries, it creates the illusion of a lighter color.

You will get such a voluminous mixture - that’s it, put it on a brush and paint.

You can rub it over the canvas in a thin layer, or you can lay it in volume.

After drying: the first strip on the left is gouache without PVA, in the middle there is voluminous gouache with PVA, on the right, the lightest gouache with PVA is crushed (see how much better the gouache + PVA mixture looks? And the one without glue is already ready to fall off).

To fix the finished picture, you can cover it with an additional layer of PVA or varnish (but if you use varnish, you won’t be able to wash off this picture with water).

And this is what the canvas looks like after bathing in hot water - just a light trace of paint on top of which you can paint again:

Other Master classes from the section

Homemade paints

The material will be useful to parents, teachers, and additional education teachers.

The history of colors probably began with the advent of man. Drawings have survived to this day. primitive people made with coal and sanguine (clay). Cave people They painted on the stones what surrounded them: running animals and hunters with spears. Medieval artists also prepared their own paints by mixing pigment powders and fats. Such paints could not be stored for more than one day, since upon contact with air they oxidized and hardened.

Homemade paint recipes:
1. Recipe.
1 tbsp. spoon of flour, 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons salt, 50 g water with food coloring, 1 teaspoon vegetable oil. Mix all ingredients and beat until thick sour cream. The binding element of these paints is oil. The prepared paints are very similar to gouache.

It is now impossible to say exactly when a person first used paint. Initially, the choice of paints was very small, because our distant ancestors had to use only what they could find in the surrounding nature. Coal and chalk, yellow and red clay - this is, perhaps, the entire color palette of ancient artists. We were much luckier in this regard. A huge number of paints of various colors and shades, made on various bases, can be found on the shelves of modern stores. Let's talk in more detail about what substances underlie the production of all paints.

What and how are paints obtained from?

Despite their wide variety, all paints are made according to the same principle. The basis of their production is mixing in certain proportions of three main components - pigment, solvent and binder.

The basis of each finished paint is pigment. This is the substance on which the color of the coating obtained after applying paint to the surface to be painted depends. Binders in paints are usually adhesives of plant or animal origin, or polymer resins. They are found in paints in emulsified or dissolved form and, when the solvent dries, they harden and form a solid film that firmly holds the coloring pigment.

A solvent is necessary to give the paint a liquid form, since in this form it is much easier to apply to the surface to be painted. Oil, alcohol, acetone, water or complex hydrocarbons are used as such a solvent. What kind of paints are made nowadays: watercolor and gouache, oil, acrylic, enamel paints, hair dyes and fabric paints - the list of their types could go on for a very long time. Let's talk briefly about how the most common ones are made.

Watercolor paints

Watercolor paints are produced mainly on the basis of mineral pigments using some kind of vegetable glue - dextrin, gum arabic, cherry glue - as a binder. Sometimes they are replaced with animal glue - fish glue or gelatin. IN watercolor paints highest quality natural honey is added.

As a preservative for all these organic matter Phenol is added to watercolor paints. The pigment is ground to a powder state, mixed with the other components, a little water is added and paint briquettes are formed from the resulting “dough”, which, after drying, are placed in boxes.

Oil paints

Oil paints are produced by mixing ground inorganic pigments with synthetic or combined drying oil. These paints are suitable for painting metal and wood. Oil paints for artists are mixed with purified linseed oil and applied to a primed canvas.

Pigment production

Let's talk about how pigments are obtained, on the basis of which all paints are produced. All pigments, depending on their origin, can be divided into two main groups - mineral and biological, obtained from living organisms.

Mineral pigments

Mineral pigments primarily include: titanium and zinc white, lead and red lead, ocher, soot, umber, ultramarine and Prussian blue.

• Titanium white, according to its chemical formula, is titanium dioxide; it is made from ilmenite, a natural mineral containing titanium.
• Soot is produced by incomplete combustion of ordinary natural gas in special burner chambers.
• Red lead, also known as iron oxide, is obtained by calcining iron salts in oxygen.
• Umber is made from clay dyed Brown color salts of manganese and iron.
• Ocher is a natural color pigment mainly composed of a mixture of iron oxide hydrate and clay.

Biological pigments

The group of biological dyes includes carmine, saffron, indigo and alizarin.

• Alizarin has a very bright orange-red color. It is obtained from the roots of madder.
• Saffron - dye orange color, produced from the pollen of saffron flowers. Because of its high cost, saffron is used exclusively in Food Industry, for coloring confectionery products.
• Indigo is perhaps the most famous natural dye. Now they have learned to synthesize it artificially, but previously indigo was extracted from the leaves of indigofera, a plant growing in India. Dye derived from indigofera was used to dye denim a rich Blue colour.
• Carmine is an extract obtained from a powder made from dried female cochineals, small insects that live on cacti. Previously, carmine was used to dye wool fabrics red; now it is most often used in the food industry.

In our family, everyone except dad draws a little. Vladushka loves gouache and watercolor. Makar is mastering finger paints, and mom Galya is using acrylic paints to paint coloring books. Even grandpa paints the fence with oil paint. It turns out there are a lot of colors.

Before creating paint, you need to understand what it actually consists of. We will consider artistic paints (for drawing). Any paint consists of a base and pigment.

Each paint has its own base. So in oil paint it is oil (usually linseed), in watercolors and gouache it is glue, in acrylic paints- polymer.

Pigments are synthetic, that is, obtained chemically, as well as mineral - these are stones, natural - this is clay and organic - from plants.

Our finger paints will be salt-flour-oil based with organic pigment;)

To prepare homemade finger paints we will need:

• flour 0.5 kg,
• salt 5 tablespoons,
• vegetable little 2 tablespoons,
• water,
• blender,
• carrot,
• beet,
• orange,
• food colorings.

For the base of our paints, we mixed flour and salt, added some water and oil. Mix everything very thoroughly so that there are no lumps. It is better to do this using a blender. You should get a mass with the consistency of sour cream.

Let's start preparing the coloring elements. For orange paint, grate carrots and squeeze out the juice. For the red one, we do the same with the beets. Squeeze the juice from the orange - this will be the base for the light yellow paint.

In all this action, the main thing is the process of mixing, rubbing and squeezing.

We put the colorless base into glasses, and add fruit and vegetable juices to each of them. I wanted more green and blue colors, which were made using food coloring.

Of course, we then drew pictures using homemade paints.

Dyeing socks

There are textile paints that are used to dye fabrics using a special technology. Of course, the guys and I didn’t use real paints, but simply outlined the possibility of dyeing the fabric. Food coloring was used for coloring. Objects studying steel white socks and white handkerchiefs.

One sock was painted blue, the other yellow. Using handkerchiefs they demonstrated the possibility of obtaining a new color. So, the yellow handkerchief was dyed blue and became green.

Confectionery paints

There are many confectionery colors. They can be classified as food. I'm not a great cook and I don't use food coloring as intended. The exception is the days before Easter, when we color eggs with food coloring. For an activity with the children, we took sugar pencils in tubes. When pressed, colored sugar icing crawls out of the tube like a small worm. We decorated cookies with this glaze. There are also food markers. In fact, they turned out to be very inconvenient for coloring cookies, as they were too thin.

Here are some more educational experiences with color.