Five important camera settings and how to use them. Photography lesson

Publication date: 01.02.2017

Do you shoot in low light without flash? Learning to photograph in P, A, S or M modes? This means that you will definitely encounter “shaking”, that is, a loss of sharpness and blurriness of the picture. It occurs due to camera shake during shooting.

As a rule, when “moving” you can clearly see the direction in which the blurring occurred. And in the event of a lens focusing error - another reason for out-of-focus shots - the subject will simply be blurred, and it is likely that the sharpness will not be where you need it. You can read about how to work with the autofocus system on the website.

The culprit of the “stir” is an incorrectly adjusted shutter speed. Let us remember that shutter speed is the period of time during which the camera shutter is open and light enters its sensor. It is measured in seconds. Any modern DSLR can handle shutter speeds in the range from 1/4000 to 30 seconds. The less light, the longer (other things being equal) the shutter speed should be.

Most often, blur appears when shooting in low light. In such conditions, the automation (or the photographer himself) begins to lengthen the shutter speed in order to gain the required amount of light and get a sufficiently bright frame. The longer the shutter speed, the higher the likelihood of blur. Often blurry frames are obtained at values ​​>1/60 of a second. The picture begins to blur because the camera shakes a little in your hands.

How to get sharp shots and get rid of “shaking”? You need to adjust the shutter speed according to the shooting conditions.

What shutter speed is suitable for different subjects? Here's an approximate cheat sheet:

• standing person - from 1/60 s and shorter;
• a slowly walking, not very fast moving person - from 1/125 s and shorter;
• a running person, athletes, frolicking children, not very fast animals - from 1/250 s and shorter;
• fast athletes, very fast animals and birds, auto and motorcycle racing - 1/500 s and shorter.

With experience, the photographer begins to understand what shutter speed is needed to shoot a particular scene.

The result of shooting is influenced by external circumstances, our physiology, stress level and hand strength. Therefore, photographers always try to play it safe and shoot at shutter speeds slightly shorter than those calculated using the formula below.

Pasha River, Leningrad region

Nikon D810 / Nikon AF-S 35mm f/1.4G Nikkor

How to calculate the maximum shutter speed based on the focal length of the lens?

You've probably noticed how much the image in the viewfinder shakes when shooting with strong zoom at a long focal length. The longer the focal length of the lens, the higher the risk of “shake” and the shorter the shutter speed should be. Based on this pattern, photographers have come up with a formula that helps determine at what shutter speed it is safe to shoot and at what risk of blurring.

The maximum shutter speed when photographing handheld should be no more than 1/(focal length x 2)

Let's say the focal length of the lens is 50 mm. According to the formula, the maximum safe shutter speed is 1/(50x2), that is, 1/100 s. Example with a shorter focal length - 20 mm: 1/(20x2)=1/40 s.

So, the shorter the focal length, the longer shutter speeds you can choose when shooting handheld. When using long lenses the opposite is true. Let's take a lens with a focal length of 300 mm. Birds and sporting events are often photographed with this type of optics. Let's apply the formula: 1/(300x2)=1/600 s. This is the short shutter speed you will need to get a sharp shot!

By the way, old-school photographers remember this formula in this form: shutter speed = 1/focal length. However, the growth of megapixels in modern cameras and increasing requirements for the technical quality of images are forcing the focal length in the denominator to double. If your camera is equipped with a small matrix (smaller than APS-C), you need to use in the calculations not the physical focal length of the lens, but the equivalent focal length, taking into account the crop factor of the matrix.

The proposed formula will protect you from blur that appears due to camera shake in your hands, but you also need to take into account the speed of movement of the subject. The faster the subject, the shorter the shutter speed should be.

How to affect shutter speed in modes A and P?

Not all modes allow the photographer to directly select the shutter speed. There is a program mode P, where both shutter speed and aperture are adjusted automatically, and aperture priority mode A, where the shutter speed is controlled. Automation often makes mistakes in these modes. Most shake shots are taken in A mode, when the photographer is focused on setting the aperture.

To avoid blur when shooting in these modes, you need to monitor the shutter speed. Its value is displayed both in the viewfinder and on the camera screen. If we see that the shutter speed is too long, it's time to raise the ISO: it will shorten along with the increase in light sensitivity. A little digital noise in a photo is better than just a blurry picture! It is important to find a reasonable compromise between shutter speed and ISO value.

Optical stabilization

Increasingly, modern photographic equipment is equipped with optical stabilization modules. The point of this technology is that the camera compensates for its vibrations. Typically, the optical stabilization module is located in the lens (as, for example, in Nikon technology). The presence of a stabilizer in a Nikon lens is indicated by the abbreviation VR (Vibration Reduction).

Depending on the lens model, the optical stabilization module may demonstrate different effectiveness. Most often, modern stabilizers allow you to photograph at shutter speeds 3-4 stops longer. What does it mean? Let's say you're shooting with a 50mm lens and a safe shutter speed is 1/100 sec. With a stabilized lens and some skill, you can shoot at shutter speeds of around 1/13 sec.

But you shouldn’t relax either. It is important to understand that the stabilizer in the lens only compensates for camera vibration. And if you are photographing people or some moving objects, the shutter speed should still be quite short. For a novice photographer, a stabilizer is a good insurance against accidental movement and camera shake in the hands. But it cannot replace either a tripod or short shutter speeds when shooting motion.

Lens equipped with optical stabilization. This is indicated by the abbreviation VR in the labeling.

How to use long shutter speeds and avoid camera shake?

Sometimes long exposures are simply necessary. Let's say you need to shoot a still subject in low light: landscape, interior, still life. In this case, increasing the ISO is not the best solution. High photosensitivity will only add digital noise to the picture and degrade image quality. In such cases, photographers use a tripod, which allows them to securely fix the camera.

If you want to develop in the direction of photographing objects, food photography, landscape or interior photography, you simply need a tripod. For amateur experiments, it can be replaced with a support: a stool, chair, curb, step, parapet, etc. The main thing is to securely install the camera on the support and not hold on to it while shooting (otherwise it will shake and the frame will be blurred). If you are afraid that the camera will fall, hold it by the strap. To avoid shaking the camera when you press the shutter button, set the device to a timer release.

But remember: all moving objects will be blurred when shooting at long shutter speeds. Therefore, there is no point in shooting portraits with a tripod at long shutter speeds. But it can be used as an artistic device!

Long exposure photography with a tripod. The city and mountains are harsh, and the fishing boat is blurred as it rocks on the waves.

Nikon D810 / Nikon 70-200mm f/4G ED AF-S VR Nikkor

How to insure yourself against blurry shots? Practical advice

• Always keep an eye on your exposure, especially if shooting in low light. In such conditions, the automation will most often set values ​​that are too long.

For all Canon DSLR users, we have prepared a few tricks, tips and tricks that can help you master your camera better and use it more effectively. The article will be of interest to both beginners and more experienced users.

Any DSLR, regardless of model, is a finely tuned instrument that combines both well-functioning mechanical elements and high-tech electronics.

Most users use only a small part of the functionality of their cameras. Part of the reason for this is the lack of experience of novice photographers or poor knowledge of the capabilities of their DSLR, but in many cases the reason lies in something completely different - in the functionality and control features laid down by the manufacturer.

Sometimes Canon chooses not the most obvious and logical option for grouping camera functions, which makes it unclear to the user how to access them (and even the instructions do not always add clarity to this issue). So, in order to effectively use your Canon DSLR, here's what you need to know:

Select RAW as the image format

There are several image format and quality options available to the DSLR user, but for best results you should always choose RAW (uncompressed or lossless compressed). Images in this format show off a better range of tones and also give you more wiggle room when editing. The choice of this image format is almost always justified.

If you shoot in JPEG, choose the maximum quality

While you should use the RAW format in most cases, there are situations where choosing the highest quality JPEG is a compromise. For example, if you are going to shoot a continuous series of images, select JPEG at maximum quality - this will allow the camera to shoot longer before its buffer fills.

Save space on your memory card if necessary

Selecting the highest quality JPEG can also come in handy if your memory card is low on space because you completely forgot to bring a spare.

Update your camera firmware promptly

Canon continues to improve the reliability and performance of its cameras, even after they leave the factory. That’s why it’s a good idea to regularly monitor the official website for the availability of an updated firmware version for your DSLR. Check in the camera menu which firmware version you are using. Then go to the official Canon website and find the “Support” section and then “Software”. In this section, you can check the relevance of the firmware used in the DSLR and, if necessary, download its update.

Try sRaw format

Many modern Canon DSLRs allow you to shoot not only in JPEG or RAW, but also in sRAW (RAW Size Small, that is, small RAW), which saves space on memory cards. But you have to remember that when shooting in sRAW, the camera uses fewer pixels, so the image file will contain less information than a regular RAW file, and you'll have to accept lower resolution or image quality.

Adjust the viewfinder diopter

We have already written about setting up the viewfinder in the article.

Adjusting the viewfinder to suit your vision will help you see the scene you're shooting in more clearly. For diopter adjustment, use the small wheel in the upper right corner of the viewfinder. Rotate it in one direction or the other to adjust the viewfinder optics.

IMPORTANT! When adjusting the viewfinder, focus on the clarity of the numbers inside the viewfinder, and not on the sharpness of the scene!

Set the Adobe RGB color space

One of the most hidden options in your DSLR menu is Color Space. By default, the color space is set to sRGB, but if you select Adobe RGB, you can capture a wider color range. This allows you to get better results when printing images.

Format/clear card before use

If you are going on a photo walk or just plan to take pictures during the day, then it is better to clear the memory card of the images on it by first copying them to your computer. Naturally, the easiest way is to delete all the images at once, rather than one at a time. To do this, you can use the “Delete All” or “Format” command. The first simply deletes all images (except for files that are protected from deletion), while the second completely deletes all information from the memory card - regardless of whether it is protected from deletion or not.

Do not make noise!

Are you annoyed by the sound of the focus confirmation beep? This option is always enabled by default in the settings of Canon DSLRs. Turn it off to avoid attracting unnecessary attention to yourself or scaring the wildlife you are about to film.

Reset

If you get too carried away with changing camera settings and want to return to factory settings, then you can use the corresponding menu item to reset all settings. After this, the camera will return to the parameters that were preset in it at the factory. Then you can start experimenting with your DSLR settings over and over again!

Make sure your photos are saved

The “Shoot without a memory card” function is very convenient for demonstrating the capabilities of the camera when purchasing it in a store, but it is extremely harmful when using the camera. Because of it, you can shoot without forgetting to install the memory card, which will lead to the loss of all the photos you took. To avoid this, find the “Shoot without a memory card” function in the menu and disable it.

Experiment with Image Styles

Canon offers many picture styles. The most useful of them is monochrome. It allows you to determine which of your captured images would be good candidates for conversion to monochrome in post-production. In this case, RAW files will contain color images (you don’t forget to shoot in RAW, right?)

Paradoxically, converting a color RAW image to monochrome in post-processing gives much better results than photos taken directly from the camera when shooting in black and white.

Use the Program Shift function

Program mode (P) is actually more useful than many users think. It automatically sets shutter speed and aperture based on lighting conditions and the lens used.

However, in Program mode, you can do more than just point and shoot—you can change the shutter speed or aperture value set by the camera. To do this in program mode, you just need to turn the wheel located next to the shutter button. This is very convenient if you want to slightly tweak the parameters that your DSLR automatically selects.

Aperture priority

Aperture priority (AV) mode is a great all-around option for creative photography. You set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode you choose. You set the aperture using the Basic Set, and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode and Exposure Compensation you set.

Aperture priority mode is also useful for selecting a specific shutter speed. It's very simple: if you want to get the maximum shutter speed, you simply rotate the main dial until you see the desired shutter speed in the viewfinder. This is a much more flexible mode than Shutter Priority, where you set the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture.

The easiest way to adjust exposure

Your DSLR has many exposure modes and ways to adjust it, but the easiest way to check your exposure, no matter what settings you're using, is to take a photo and then view it on the camera's LCD. The histogram will tell you whether the photo is underexposed or, conversely, overexposed. You can then use to make the next photo lighter or darker. To do this, you need to press the Av +/- button and then rotate the dial located behind the shutter button. Shifting towards “+” makes the image darker, towards “-” it makes it lighter.

Which Exposure Compensation Value Should I Choose?

If the scene (or subject) you are shooting is predominantly dark, the camera will overexpose the photo, so use negative exposure compensation. If the scene is mostly bright, selecting +1 or +2 exposure compensation will give you a more balanced image in terms of exposure.

Partial metering

To photograph subjects against a bright or dark background, you will have to use exposure compensation so that you don't end up with just a silhouette of your subject in the photo. You can also select an exposure metering mode that only meters brightness in the center of the frame. This mode in Canon DSLRs is partial exposure metering, and it does the job well in most situations.

18.09.2015 9160 Photography Tips 0

Whether you've just been given a brand new camera or you've given in to the urge to take better photos than your smartphone can, you'll need tips on how to set up your treasure for the first time. It is this query in search engines that often brings you, our dear readers, to our site.

So, I decided to give you some tips on this matter, 12 tips, and here you will find all the necessary information on how to properly set up your camera for a beginner.

Tip #1. Charge the battery

If your camera does not come with AA batteries, which you must purchase yourself, then the first thing you will have to do after opening the box is charge the battery.

Most cameras come with a charger, into which you need to insert the battery and then connect it to the mains. But there are also cameras that allow you to charge the battery inside the camera via a USB connection. Please carefully read the instructions for your purchase regarding this matter.

All necessary cables or charger should be in the box with the camera.

Tip #2. Format the memory card

As soon as the battery is charged, insert it into the compartment provided for it (the card must be purchased additionally, in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations - again, read the instructions). Then turn on the camera, enter the menu and find the formatting function.

Formatting prepares the card for use and removes all existing images from it. If you've used the card before, make sure you download any images you want to keep from it.

Tip #3. Image quality and size

All cameras are capable of capturing images in different and different quality. If you want to take the best possible pictures, set the image quality to the best setting. It may be called Highest JPEG, Fine JPEG, or Extra Fine JPEG.

If you are new to photography, don't shoot RAW files on their own, shoot simultaneously with the JPEG format - you will need this option when you gain some experience and can process your photo archive. Subsequently, you are better off completely switching to the RAW format.

Tip #4. White balance

Our eyes and brains are good at compensating for the different colors of light we encounter, which is why we see white objects as white.

The camera's white balance (WB) system is designed for the same purpose, and in most cases, setting it to automatic gives good results. But when shooting in JPEG format, in some situations it is not enough - in specific lighting conditions it is better to select the “fluorescent lamp” (fluorescent lamp) or “incandescent lamp” mode, depending on the lighting.

If you shoot in RAW format, then feel free to set the WB setting to Auto mode - you will set the desired light temperature during post-processing in the editor (provided that you have these skills).

Tip #5. Exposure metering

Many cameras offer three metering modes that allow you to evaluate the brightness of light and suggest appropriate exposure settings: spot, matrix and multi-zone.

A good place to start is to set it to multizone, which is a good choice as it takes into account brightness across the entire surface of the scene and tries to recommend exposure settings that will produce a nice, balanced shot. As you master the camera, you will begin to use all three modes depending on your shooting tasks.

Tip #6. Focusing

A modern camera offers several. In AF-S (Single) mode, the camera will focus on the subject according to the active AF points when you press the shutter button halfway. Once it focuses, the lens will hold focus for as long as you keep the button pressed. This is a good option for many situations, but if the subject is moving, the focus will not be adjusted.

Many cameras have an AF-A (Auto) option that automatically detects whether the subject is moving.

If the subject is stationary, then Single-AF is used, but if it moves, the camera activates the continuous autofocus system, that is, the focus is adjusted as needed.

If your camera has an automatic focus mode, then install it.

Tip #7. Selecting AF points

Most cameras have a setting that tells the equipment which autofocus points to use. This is a good choice if you are a beginner.

The camera tends to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.

If necessary, switch to single-point AF (or similar). It allows you to set the AF point using the navigation buttons.

Tip #8. Shooting mode: single shot and continuous shooting

When your camera is in single shot mode, it takes one frame each time you press the shutter button. Even if you hold your finger down.

In "continuous shooting" mode, it will continue to take photos until you release the button or until the buffer or memory card is full.

This mode is useful when shooting moving subjects, but in most cases you'll want to take one photo at a time.

Tip #9. Image stabilization

The slightest accidental camera movements can cause blur in your images at relatively long shutter speeds, but this can easily be corrected with the help of an image stabilization system (some cameras use , most use lens stabilization).

Stabilization works by moving the sensor or elements inside the lens to compensate for camera shake. In general, the stabilization system is very effective and allows you to use longer shutter speeds.

If you shoot handheld, then be sure to activate image stabilization, but when mounting the camera on a tripod, turn it off.

Tip #10. Color space

Many cameras offer two color spaces to choose from: . Adobe RGB has a larger color range than SRGB. Therefore, it will be the best option in most cases.

Tip #11. Picture Style or Picture Control

Most cameras can process images in a number of different ways, using Picture Style functions, Picture Control modes, color modes, or Film Simulation mode.

Typically, there are several options. One produces black and white (monochrome) images, another increases saturation to make the image brighter, "landscape" enhances blues and greens, etc.

By default, the camera uses the "standard" option, which is generally suitable for most situations, so make sure this is set to this. And you can easily get the rest of the effects in a graphic editor during subsequent processing of the frame.

Tip #12. Shooting modes

The vast majority of beginners immediately set the Auto mode after purchase (wow, such a cool camera, it will definitely do everything right for me!). And this is a mistake. You need to immediately understand and use creative modes: aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode and manual mode. On most cameras they are marked as “A”, “S”, “M” respectively. If you have a Canon camera, you will notice that it likes to be special, and the same modes on it are labeled Av, Tv, M (Av is aperture priority mode, Tv is shutter priority mode, M is manual mode).

You're probably a little intimidated to switch to creative modes, but I strongly advocate with them, and in most cases using aperture priority mode as a tool for adjusting exposure and depth of field (DOF).

That’s basically all, now you can safely go on a photo hunt for masterpieces. Although... I don’t want to call this tip “thirteenth”, I’m a little superstitious, but still, take a look at our free one.

If you have any questions, ask them on the site forum, in our photo club. All the photography to you!

Greetings, dear reader! I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. So, you have purchased your own photographic equipment. But what to do with it next? Of course, you need to set it up first! The instructions, as well as this article, will greatly help you with this. The article will answer in detail the question: how to set up a SLR camera.

Preparing and using the camera

I have no doubt that you can't wait to start filming! Wait, first prepare the equipment for work. The interface and features of the camera from top manufacturers may differ. For example, Canon from Nikon.

Important! Read your camera manual very carefully.

But at their core, they have similar functions and are configured in a similar way, so my advice is universal, no matter what camera you use. I present the steps of the setup process to help you. Here's what to check:

1. Battery
2. Memory card
3. Image format and quality
4. Vibrations
5. Focusing
6. Metering area
7. Shooting modes and options
8. Picture Control or Picture Style function

Battery

Your camera must have a charger; most likely, it is already included with your camera. These are not batteries, but an accumulator. Before you start taking photos, you need to charge it well.

In this case, usually a brand new battery will have to be fully charged and discharged more than once for normal operation. Pay close attention to the recommendations for its use in the instructions for the camera.

It so happens that if the battery is constantly recharged without completely consuming energy, it may gradually begin to work worse, that is, it will last for less time.

Proper charging will help avoid this. It would also be a good idea to purchase an additional battery if you plan to shoot a lot without the possibility of recharging.

Flash drive

A flash drive or memory card is not sold together with the camera; it is bought separately, but you absolutely cannot do without it. This is where your photos will be stored. A lot depends on it: both the shooting speed and the speed of access to files. Therefore, you should not save on it, take a high-end one - no lower than 10.

Before you rush to try out the equipment, make sure that the flash drive is in place. Format it in advance by going to the camera menu.

Formatting will increase the available space for recording photos and also ensure optimal functioning. Do this procedure periodically: shoot a series of frames, fill out the card, then transfer the data to the computer and clean the flash drive.

Important! In the settings of your camera, set the settings so that if there is no memory card, the camera will not take photographs. In Nikon, this feature is called Shutter Release Lock without Memory Card.

Image format and quality

Any camera has the ability to save pictures of different sizes and formats, which determines their weight. As a rule, these are JPEG, small, medium and large, but there are semi- and professional models where you can shoot in RAW - the highest quality, or as it is also called digital negative.

There is also the TIFF format, but it is mainly present on semi-professional and professional cameras.

Beginners most often start with average quality. Once you master Lightroom or Photoshop, image editors, you will understand the benefits of RAW. Despite the fact that this format takes up a lot of space on the card, it will contain all the information on any frame, and in such a photo you can subsequently modify almost all elements, within reason.

Vibrations

Did you know that our actual sustainability in place leaves much to be desired? If you didn’t know, you’ll soon find out – as soon as you start taking photographs. Often or even constantly, you should turn on the additional noise reduction (stabilization) setting in your camera, which will rid the frame of vibrations. Vibrations naturally come from external conditions (wind, for example), from shaking hands, awkward movements and can make the image unclear and blurry.

You also need to enable the button that reduces vibration on the lens itself, if present (VR - on Nikon, IS - on Canon). If you don’t have such a button, don’t worry, not all lenses have it.

Focus

In order for the optics to correctly recognize what exactly needs to be focused on and which object to make clear, it is necessary to vary the focus. In most cases, you won't need manual mode, so switch the focus button to auto. You can switch both on the lens itself and in the camera settings.

Also, in the menu itself, you can also select the focusing mode: single-point or multi-point.

I always shoot with the first option, since in the second the camera itself determines the points on which to focus. I don't know about you, but I prefer to manage this process myself. Moreover, in the space of the frame, the focusing area can be shifted in any direction, depending on the location of the main subject (with single-point focusing).

Metering area

Of the three common exposure metering options, I most often use matrix (multi-area) and center. Matrix does an excellent job in many shooting situations: it measures lighting conditions in several areas of the frame at once, which determines the exact exposure. Central is more suitable when you need to evaluate the exposure in the central part of the photographed space.

More details about exposure metering modes are described in the article -

Modes, shooting options

The important task is to choose the parameters. After all, they determine the entire picture! Of course, a lot depends on the composition and atmosphere, but the exposure and its components “create” the photo; they can either improve it or completely destroy it. I won’t write much about this, since you will find comprehensive information about it in my articles. I’ll just say that you need to be able to exhibit:

A very effective way to make an image more expressive and adapt to shooting conditions. In addition, less time will then be spent on post-processing.

It will be very useful for you to watch the video course, which will guide you on the right path and answer many of your questions about photography in more detail. It is called " Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0"and is well-chosen material, especially useful for a beginner.

It will also be useful to familiarize yourself with the video course dedicated to the powerful assistant of almost every photographer, Lightroom “ Lightroom wizard. Secrets of high-speed photo processing" This course will teach you how to work with photography correctly and make minor adjustments to photographs. With this program, you will understand why many photographers use the RAW format.

I hope the article was useful and understandable. More practice - and everything will work out! See you again on my blog! Share with friends and subscribe to blog updates.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

As soon as you got your first professional camera, it seems to you that now you can do everything, and... you start taking photographs in auto mode, sincerely not understanding why the professionals look at you with a grin.

The thing is that the automatic mode, or as it is also called the “green zone,” is one of the top things in the ranking of contempt among professional photographers (after the kit lens, of course). It is considered the “fate of dummies,” a label that turns all photographs into bad taste, no matter how talented they are. And therefore, knowledgeable people, when buying a camera, first of all scroll the mode wheel away from the “green zone”. Of course, you shouldn’t indulge the majority, and if you like to shoot in automatic mode, shoot as long as it brings you pleasure. But if you look at it from the other side, there are a lot of disadvantages in auto mode, when photographing in manual mode will give you more both for getting great pictures and for professional growth. Disadvantages of the “green zone”:

1. Lack of RAW in Canon cameras.
2. Often there is no way to correct the exposure.
3. You cannot control the depth of field.
4. In general, all the levers, buttons and knobs become absolutely useless, the camera simply does not earn the money you paid for it.

But if you are just getting acquainted with the art of photography, then starting with auto mode will be useful. And after you learn how to compose a frame, you can go into the settings.

Manually setting up the camera: basic modes

• P– program mode. This mode is almost automatic, since the camera selects the exposure pair (aperture and shutter speed) independently. You can only adjust less significant parameters, such as light sensitivity, jpeg settings, white balance, etc.
• A or Av– aperture priority. Here you can set the aperture value, and the camera itself selects the optimal shutter speed for it according to the data from the exposure meter built into it. This mode is used most often by photographers because it allows full control over depth of field.
• S or TV– shutter priority mode. Here you set the shutter speed that you think is appropriate, and the camera sets the aperture. This mode is quite limited and is usually used when photographing various sporting events, when it is important for the photographer to capture an interesting moment, and elaboration of the background fades into the background.
• M– completely manual mode of the camera. Usually it is used only by those who are well versed in photography. All necessary parameters are set manually, various restrictions are removed, and you can set absolutely any aperture and shutter speed at any ISO value. Also, the flash in manual mode can be used by the photographer at his discretion. Any use of flash allows you to achieve various artistic effects in your photographs. In addition, in this mode you can take deliberately overexposed or underexposed photographs, shoot with lenses that were not originally intended for this camera, etc. Using M mode requires the user to have a thorough knowledge of the basics of photography.

Setting up manual mode in the camera: M mode for different types of shooting

1. Settings for portrait photography Manually setting up a DSLR camera for portrait photography is a science. It is important to take into account the lighting and how the light falls on your model's face, based on this, set the main values. For example, when shooting a portrait indoors with windows that create pleasant natural light, you need to open the aperture to maximum (for a whale it is f3.5-f5.6, and for a fast lens it is f1.4-f2.8), then you can use it to determine the shutter speed. Shutter speed, depending on natural light and lens, will range from 1/30 to 1/100. It’s best to leave the ISO value minimal – 100 units, so that the image does not lose its quality. These settings rarely result in underexposed frames, but if you do get a dark photo, just turn on the flash and everything will go away. When shooting in cloudy or cloudy weather, there is usually a problem with the exposure of the frame. If you get dark photos, and you didn’t plan for this at all, then increasing the shutter speed to 1/8 - 1/15 will help you; increasing the light sensitivity would also not hurt (200 - 400 units).

Sunny weather is also not always beneficial when photographing portraits. You'll have to fight for shots with minimal shadows! Moreover, if you set the aperture and shutter speed just once, you will never be able to shoot from different angles and points. And therefore, throughout the entire photo shoot, you will have to look at the resulting material every time. If your frame is overexposed, we advise you to reduce the ISO value and set the shutter speed a little faster (about 1/800 - 1/1000). It is possible that you will have to close the aperture a little. If it is simply impossible to place the model in the shadows, then use a flash - this way you can even out the light a little.
2. Dynamic scenes in manual mode. Photos that convey the dynamics of movement always look very impressive. Let's say you wanted to feel like a magician and use a camera to stop time and capture the first-class trick of a young and promising skater. To do this, you need to set the following parameters: shutter speed from 1/320, aperture from f4 to f 5.6. Photosensitivity: if there is enough lighting, then 100-200 units, if not, 400 units. If necessary, use a flash - it will add sharpness to the picture.
3. Photograph objects in manual mode in low light Shooting in manual mode is especially important at night. Walking through the city at night, fantastically beautiful fireworks, the romance of the starry sky, a concert of your favorite band - all this requires special camera settings.

• Concerts: ISO 100, shutter speed 1/125, aperture f8.
• Fireworks: ISO 200, shutter speed 1/30, aperture f10.
• Starry sky: ISO 800 – 1600, shutter speed 1/15 – 1/30, aperture at minimum.
• City lights at night: ISO 800, shutter speed 1/10 – 1/15, aperture f2.

Setting the flash in manual mode (M and TV)

The TV/S (shutter priority) and M (full manual mode) modes are simply ideal for convenient use of the flash, because in these modes you can set a fast shutter speed. In manual mode, exposure depends on the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO you set. You need to calculate the amount of light needed to illuminate the subject, and only then adjust the flash. A good workout for the brain, don't you agree? Manual mode will allow you to use a wider amount of flash power than other modes.

It's worth noting that in any shooting mode, you may notice the settings indicator blinking in the viewfinder. This happens when the set parameters cannot “work” with the flash. The main reasons are that the aperture is inaccessible to the lens of your camera or the shutter speed is too short and is not supported by your camera or flash.

Photography in manual mode: so which one should you shoot in?

• Aperture priority (AV) mode – in our opinion, is perfect for everyday shooting. Select the required aperture value (based on what depth of field you want to achieve), and the camera will select the required shutter speed itself.
• Program mode (P) - of course, allows you to change the shutter speed and aperture parameters, but does this exclusively in pairs. When taking the next frame, the values ​​will be set automatically again, and it is possible that you will need to adjust them again.
• Manual mode (M) is great, but very inconvenient because using it requires a large number of various manipulations, and the probability is much greater.

Make sure the exposure matches the scene you are about to capture. If the subject is evenly lit, choose evaluative metering, and if there are objects that contrast with the general background, choose spot or partial. Are there an equal number of dark and bright objects? Select center-weighted metering. There is no perfect “recipe” - experiment and learn from your own experience.

And one more piece of advice. Work in RAW! This way you can increase the likelihood of “saving” images that are successful in composition but have technical problems. Good luck!