"Let's go to the royal village." Let's go to Tsarskoe Selo, or the non-trivial city of Pushkin "Life is an eternal holiday"

Genre: documentary, video tour
A series of programs about the history and events of a far from provincial village.
Author's program of Ivan Sautov, director of the Tsarskoe Selo State Museum-Reserve.
25 miles from St. Petersburg to Tsarskoe Selo was the best road in Russia. In the summer the court moved there, and Tsarskoe Selo turned “into a small, brilliant Petersburg.” Festive life reigned there, and from there the Romanovs ruled Russia. The main characters of the author's program of the director of the Tsarskoye Selo State Museum Ivan Sautov are kings, writers, architects...

Bella Kurkova's project
Stage directors: Olga Vysotskaya, Mikhail Trofimov

Production: LLC "Len TV" by order of State Television and Radio Broadcasting Company "Culture"

Presenter: Ivan Sautov

Participation in films:

“I never even dreamed that I would visit such places, such palaces and interiors. I would hold in my hands a child’s rifle of Tsarevich Alexei Romanov or a saber that fought in the Battle of Chesma. I would film in a real forge and in the halls of St. Petersburg museums that are closed to ordinary visitors. Almost a dream, almost a fairy tale.
During filming, many surprising coincidences occurred. I cannot forget one mystical incident to this day. It was late in the evening at the Yusupov Palace on the Moika; the last planned shots remained to be completed. Our small group was collapsing after a whole day of work, and I was struggling to stay cheerful in the frame and work the same way as 10 hours ago. Finally, the long-awaited phrase "Stop! Cut! That's all for today!" pronounced, and I go to change clothes in the wardrobe of the Yusupov Palace, which was kindly provided to us for filming. On the stool near the mirror there is only one elderly woman, a St. Petersburg intellectual with clear and attentive eyes, like those who survived the Siege. I’m wearing a silk scarf, a dark cloth frock coat, tapered trousers with straps and pointed shoes, my face is tired and sad.
“Here comes Prince Hamlet,” the cloakroom attendant says with a smile, predicting events that will happen in my acting life much later. Who could have thought then, who could have guessed?!
I consider this series a wonderful gift of fate, a touch of Russian history and a huge gain for myself."

"Life is an eternal holiday"

Finally this miracle was ready! It was possible to show the new Tsarskoye Selo palace to diplomats and courtiers. It took 11 years to build. And when the palace “shone” with its unearthly beauty among the forests surrounding it, Elizaveta Petrovna Romanova was delighted. She did not know then that she was only allowed to live in this palace for two years.

In the role Manager Nikolay Lazarev

Film fragments

Stills from the film:

"I want to swim"

Big Tsarskoye Selo Lake. Unique lake. As they say now, energetic... It, perhaps, has no equal in the number of poetic lines dedicated to it at different times. And how many biographies began here, on its shores!

In the role Junker flag Nikolay Lazarev

Film fragments

Stills from the film:

"Tsarskoye Selo Arsenal"

Tsarskoye Selo Arsenal. The once beautiful pavilion in the form of a six-story tower is picturesquely located in the Alexander Park of Tsarskoye Selo. Adam Menelas began to build it, and it was completed after his death by the architect Ton. But the main thing is, amazingly imaginative, the collection of weapons that was located here.

In the role keeper of the Arsenal Nikolay Lazarev

Film fragments

Stills from the film:

Mandelstam's poetry is a dance of things, appearing in the most bizarre combinations. By adding the play of sound associations to the game of semantic associations, the poet, who has a knowledge and flair for language that is rare these days, often takes his poems beyond the limits of ordinary understanding: Mandelstam’s poems begin to excite with some dark secrets, probably contained in the root nature of him. combined words - and not easily decipherable. We think that Mandelstam himself would not have been able to explain much of what he wrote. Theorists of “abstruse” poetry should deeply read Mandelstam: he is the first, and so far only he, to prove by his own example that abstruse poetry has the right to exist. What helped him do this was his poetic gift, intelligence and education, that is, what the poor “masters” of Russian futurism were completely deprived of.

O. E. Mandelstam - “Tsarskoye Selo”

Georgy Ivanov

Let's go to Tsarskoe Selo!
The bourgeois women are smiling there,
When the lancers are after drinking
Sit in a strong saddle...
Let's go to Tsarskoe Selo!

Barracks, parks and palaces,
And on the trees there are pieces of cotton wool,
And the peals of “health” will burst out
To the cry - “great, well done!”
Barracks, parks and palaces...

One-story houses,
Where are the like-minded generals?
They while away their weary lives,
Reading Niva and Dumas...
Mansions - not houses!

The whistle of a steam locomotive... The prince is riding.
There is a retinue in the glass pavilion!..
And, dragging the saber angrily,
The officer comes out, arrogant, -
I have no doubt - this is the prince...

And returns home -
Of course, to the realm of etiquette -
Inspiring secret fear, the carriage
With the relics of a gray-haired maid of honor,
What comes home...

Date of writing: 1912

Mandelstam Osip Emilievich - poet, prose writer, essayist.
Osip Emilievich Mandelstam (1891, Warsaw - 1938, Vladivostok, transit camp), Russian poet, prose writer. Relations with his parents were very alienated, loneliness, “homelessness” - this is how Mandelstam presented his childhood in his autobiographical prose “The Noise of Time” (1925). For Mandelstam’s social self-awareness, it was important to classify himself as a commoner, a keen sense of injustice existing in society.
Mandelstam's attitude towards Soviet power since the late 1920s. ranges from sharp rejection and denunciation to repentance before the new reality and glorification of I.V. Stalin. The most famous example of denunciation is the anti-Stalin poem “We live without feeling the country beneath us...” (1933) and the autobiographical “Fourth Prose.” The most famous attempt to take power is the poem “If only I would take coal for the highest praise...”, to which the name “” was assigned. In mid-May 1934, Mandelstam was arrested and exiled to the city of Cherdyn in the Northern Urals. He was accused of writing and reading anti-Soviet poems. From July 1934 to May 1937 he lived in Voronezh, where he created a cycle of poems, “Voronezh Notebooks,” in which an emphasis on lexical vernacular and colloquial intonations is combined with complex metaphors and sound play. The main theme is history and the place of man in it (“Poems about the Unknown Soldier”). In mid-May 1937 he returned to Moscow, but he was forbidden to live in the capital. He lived near Moscow, in Savelovo, where he wrote his last poems, then in Kalinin (now Tver). At the beginning of March 1938, Mandelstam was arrested in the Samatikha sanatorium near Moscow. A month later, he was sentenced to 5 years in the camps for counter-revolutionary activities. He died of exhaustion in a transit camp in Vladivostok.
http://www.stihi-xix-xx-vekov.ru/biografia39.html

YURSKY, SERGEY YURIEVICH, (b. 1935), actor, director, writer, poet, screenwriter. People's Artist of the Russian Federation.

Let's go to Tsarskoye Selo!
The bourgeois women are smiling there,
When the lancers are after drinking
Sit in a strong saddle...
Let's go to Tsarskoye Selo!
Barracks parks and palaces,
And on the trees there are pieces of cotton wool
And the peals of “health” will burst out
To the cry of “great, well done!”
Barracks, parks and palaces...

This is what Osip Mandelstam once wrote, imagining Tsarskoye Selo almost a hundred years ago. Surprisingly, even today, after another century, it seems that the city of Pushkin will also greet guests with the ringing of spurs, the sound of carriages and drumming on the parade ground... Of course, we will not encounter such sounds today in Tsarskoe, but in all other respects the city remains an oasis, a quiet the fortress of classicism. St. Petersburg-style perpendicular streets with two-three-story houses bask in greenery, delighting the soul with silence and lack of fuss. It’s worth coming here not only for the grandeur and splendor of the palaces and parks, but also for inspiration, a sense of harmony and peace. Traveling here, even if you have already seen the main majestic ensembles, can be quite educational. So, what else to see in Tsarskoe Selo? Let's make the assumption that you have already visited the two main palaces, the Lyceum and the Church of the Sign have been examined, and the Catherine and Alexander parks have been explored. We recommend taking a walk around the Fedorovsky town with a guided tour (of which “Walks around St. Petersburg” has two - authored by E.I. Zherikhina and V.K. Annenkov) - the object will appear in more relief. We will concentrate on places to visit on your own.

Not long ago, after repair and restoration work, one of the historical pavilions in Alexander Park, the White Tower, was opened to visitors. The romantic-looking building in the neo-Gothic style is located very close to the Alexander Palace. Today, firstly, it is a wonderful observation deck - when you climb the tower, from a height of 32 meters you will see not only the endless greenery of the surrounding parks, but also Fedorovsky Cathedral, the domes of the palace wing of the Catherine Palace, the center of the city of Pushkin and the southern outskirts of St. Petersburg. And secondly, the White Tower is interesting in itself as an excursion object - in the 20s of the 19th century it was erected so that the children of Emperor Nicholas I - Grand Dukes Alexander, Nikolai, Mikhail and Konstantin - trained here in the art of war and did gymnastics. In the tower, one above the other, there were halls for various purposes: a living room, a dining room and a pantry, an office, a bedroom, a dressing room and a library. The guide will tell you how the great princes spent their time here and what the premises were like. As for the interiors, they were restored in our time from photographs from the beginning of the twentieth century (work began in the 1990s and lasted, with some interruption, until 2012) - during the Great Patriotic War, the building was badly damaged. But even those made anew, the stucco ceiling lamps and inlaid parquet flooring are impressive. After the opening of the pavilion, it was decided to continue the noble educational tradition that has always been present within the walls of this building - now there is an interactive center in the pavilion. The center conducts educational programs for children, and also invites you to study at the “School of Knights and Princesses” - a course where your child will immerse himself in the fairy-tale world of the Middle Ages - learn more about the culture and history of this period, get acquainted with medieval dances and crafts (such as making engravings and stained glass), and in the end will undergo an initiation ceremony and become a real knight or princess. (Entrance to the tower is only with a guided tour, based on a group of approximately 15 people).


Having examined the entire Tsarskoe Selo from above, we will go to explore it in detail. Coming out of Alexander Park next to the palace, go left along Palace Street, and after two blocks on the corner you will see a small light yellow house with a balcony on the mezzanine. This little building is worth coming to Tsarskoye Selo for. The house seems to embody the quintessence of the coziness of these places, and its facades have absorbed the play of the sun's rays for many years. A small building at 2 Dvortsovaya Street is A.S.’s dacha. Pushkin in Tsarskoe Selo. In this house, Pushkin and his young wife Natalya Nikolaevna spent the summer and early autumn of 1831, a few months after the wedding, which took place in Moscow. The house was built in 1827 in the Empire style, its owner is the widow of the court valet Anna Kuzminichna Kitaeva. Pushkin and his wife rented eight of the eleven rooms, the remaining three were occupied by the hostess herself and her daughters. In 1958, a museum opened here. The current exhibition shows living rooms - a pantry, a dining room, a living room, Natalya Nikolaevna's boudoir, her bedroom (which is presented as a conventional ladies' office) and, of course, the poet's study, which is located on the second floor. On the excursion you will find out what the Pushkins served for lunch, how their life was organized and how the day of the young spouses went. Alexander Sergeevich worked a lot and fruitfully in this house. Here he wrote a letter from Onegin to Tatyana, which completed his work on a novel in verse, “The Tale of Tsar Saltan,” and a number of poems, prepared for publication “Belkin’s Tale.” Looking at the poet’s office, it seems that he has overcome two centuries by an effort of will, one can imagine him in this room, simple and bright. “On the large round table, in front of the sofa, there were papers and notebooks, often unstitched, a simple inkwell and feathers; on the table there is a decanter of water, ice and a jar of laceberry jam, his favorite,” wrote A.O. Smirnova-Rosset.

For Pushkin, Tsarskoe Selo was associated with reverent memories of his youth, the beginning of his poetic path; he enjoyed his stay here. And Tsarskoe Selo society, including the imperial couple and the court, admired the poet and his wife. One of his contemporaries wrote that that summer “in Tsarskoe Selo, many people went to deliberately look at Pushkin, as he walked arm-in-arm with his wife, usually near the lake. She wore a white dress, a round hat, and a red shawl twisted on her shoulders in the style of that time.” Another quote from Smirnova-Rosset about the Tsarskoe Selo life of the Pushkin couple - the lady describes riding in a droshky: “I will sit with his wife, and he is on the crossbar, in front of us, and every time he used to sing while walking.” The feeling of happiness is perhaps the main thing that this small memorial museum regularly preserves.


The museum-dacha is located at the intersection of Dvortsovaya and Pushkinskaya streets (it received the name of the poet in 1949). If we walk along the last two blocks, we will find ourselves in a green square with a temple in the center. Let's turn right onto Leontyevskaya, and in a couple of steps there is a small official-looking house with a large inscription “museum” on the pediment. The Historical and Literary Museum of the City of Pushkin is located in the building of the former Office of the Chief of Police at 28 Leontyevskaya Street. Massive wooden doors lead into the museum, behind which there seems to be complete silence. So, in fact, it turns out that apart from the friendly caretakers, there are usually few visitors. However, the museum’s exhibitions are interesting, and will be of interest not only to Tsarskoye Selo residents! The most important of them is historical, located on the third and second floors. How the town developed around the imperial residence and how similar it was to what we see now. Look at the views of Tsarskoe Selo from the beginning of the 20th century - in present-day Pushkin there are not many monuments of Art Nouveau architecture left, and in the photo the central streets of the city are in unusual, fancy buildings. It is also useful to come here after a tour of the Fedorovsky town - the museum’s exhibition presents its design drawings and interior plans. In general, the historical and architectural part of the exhibition is very good - a general spatio-temporal picture is built in your head. However, there is a noticeable drawback - in some parts of the exhibition you will not find addresses of buildings in the captions of photographs and drawings. If you don’t know Pushkin very well, it’s worth ordering a guided tour and asking all your questions to the guide (cost: 700 rubles for a small group of adults (from 1 to 8 people), please book in advance).

In the continuation of the historical exhibition on the second floor, there are noteworthy corners that tell about the medical and educational institutions of Tsarskoe Selo. The better climate compared to the city made it possible to organize medical institutions here; by the beginning of the 20th century there were 8 medical institutions and 15 shelters and almshouses. The educational institutions of Tsarskoe Selo are no less famous. For 30 thousand inhabitants in 1909, there were 19 educational institutions of remarkably high class. All aspects of the educational process were taken into account: talented teachers and advanced programs were selected, the load was accurately distributed, and the buildings of educational institutions themselves were built specifically taking into account educational needs. The “product” of the pedagogical system was vividly characterized by Korney Chukovsky, who wrote about the Tsarskoe Selo people: “... they were characterized by that exquisite gloss by which we, the native St. Petersburg residents, unmistakably recognized people brought up by Tsarskoe Selo.”

Together with the students and teachers of Tsarskoye Selo gymnasiums, we will smoothly move to the neighboring literary hall, dedicated to the poets of the Silver Age. Innokenty Annensky, Nikolai Gumilyov and, of course, Anna Akhmatova - these people wandered along the alleys of the local parks. In addition to these three surnames, you will recognize several new ones - little-known, but worthy of attention. Poems are given next to the synopsis of life and creative path. A separate room is dedicated to the history of Tsarskoye Selo during the Great Patriotic War. An interesting inclusion, undoubtedly of interest to someone, is an exhibition dedicated to the scout movement in Tsarskoe Selo. In general, the museum is very informative, but after visiting, perhaps you will leave a couple of wishes in the book of reviews and suggestions. After visiting the museum, it is likely that you will want to look for what you saw on the streets. You can look at Pushkin and walk here endlessly. Let's create, for example, a route like this. After leaving the museum, go further along Pushkinskaya Street, then turn right and in a couple of minutes you will find yourself on Naberezhnaya Street. Walk further along it - a melancholy landscape of cascading ponds will unfold on the left, and on the right hand you will see several notable buildings, for example, the Nikolaev Men's Gymnasium - the director of which was Innokenty Annensky, and one of the students was Nikolai Gumilyov. The eclectic style building, reminiscent of Byzantine or Georgian architecture, will attract your attention. A little further along the Embankment there is a Lutheran church in the neo-Gothic style. Before reaching the church, turn onto the bridge dividing the cascading ponds. Behind it you will be met by wedding processions - they are heading to the registry office (the building of the Reserve Palace) on the right side of the street.

And you and I will look beyond the fence on the left side of Sovetsky Lane - there, hidden by the gloomy spruce trees from the Bilibin paintings, the Palace of Princess Paley hides its halls. Olga Valerianovna Paley is the wife of Grand Duke Pavel Alexandrovich, uncle of Emperor Nicholas II. You have already met the son of Princess Paley at the Historical and Literary Museum, Vladimir Paley - a young man who left a legacy as a soldier and poet. This palace once housed untold wealth; for a short time in the 20s of the 20th century there was a museum here, but now the building presents a sad, depressing picture. I would like to hope that someday it will come to life.

Of course, nature will help you dispel the sadness that has come upon you. At the end of Sovetsky Lane there will be an entrance to another of the local parks - Otdelny. Its scale is impressive - the park stretches all the way to Pavlovsk, however, decide for yourself whether to go deeper there or not. Moreover, you will be presented with a picturesque landscape from the first minutes. In the Separate Park you will immediately see a pond with an unexpected, seemingly impossible sandy beach. You can't swim here, but that's probably a plus - it only makes the park more romantic. The beautiful Sofia Boulevard stretches along the park - if you follow it in the right direction (coming out of the park - to the right), it will lead you to the train station. The train will take you to the exquisite Vitebsk Station - aesthetically, this is the most correct way to end your visit to Tsarskoye Selo.

And come back here! To see the dachas in the Art Nouveau style, the harmonious Greek Sophia Cathedral of Charles Cameron, maybe even get to the remains of the Babolovsky Palace in the park of the same name. For Pushkin's inspiration...

Historical site Bagheera - secrets of history, mysteries of the universe. Secrets of great empires and ancient civilizations, the fate of disappeared treasures and biographies of people who changed the world, secrets of intelligence agencies. Chronicle of the war, description of battles and battles, reconnaissance operations of the past and present. World traditions, modern life in Russia, the unknown USSR, the main directions of culture and other related topics - everything that official science is silent about.

Study the secrets of history - it's interesting...

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