Skinhead (from English skinhead - shaved head) - a special trend in fashion that arose thanks to the emergence of a subculture of the same name among working-class London youth in the 60s of the twentieth century and then spread throughout the world. Closely associated with musical styles such as ska, reggae and street punk (aka Oi!). Some of the representatives of this subculture grew up from the environment, others experienced significant influence from the West Indian ore-boys.

Initially, this movement was famous for its apolitical nature and was focused only on fashion, music and a certain lifestyle. However, over time, some of the skinheads became involved in politics and joined various extreme movements, both left and right, as a result of which neo-Nazi and anarchist movements separated from the traditional skinheads who remained true to their ideals.

Story

At the end of the 50s of the twentieth century, Great Britain was gripped by a real economic boom, which, despite all the existing restrictions, significantly increased the income level of young people from the working class. Some of the young people preferred to spend all their money on new clothes, for which they received the nickname - fashion. Their subculture was characterized by a special affinity for fashion, music and scooters. It was the mods, or rather their offshoot, the so-called hard mods, who were the first to wear work or army boots, straight or sta-prest, with buttons and suspenders. Unlike their more “refined” counterparts, these mods took particular pride in emphasizing their working-class affiliation, cutting their hair much shorter and not averse to fighting. Hard fashion finally developed into a separate movement around 1968 and around the same time they received a new nickname - skinheads.

Skinheads still retained some features of the previous mods, but they were greatly influenced by the style of the rud boys - immigrants from Jamaica who settled in England. Along with their behavior and some style features, skinheads borrowed from them a love for ska, rocksteady and early reggae. The latter was so popular in this environment that sellers even began to add the prefix “skinhead” to the word reggae in order to increase record sales.

The skinhead subculture was finally formed by 1969. By this time, skinheads had become so popular that the band Slade even used their appearance as an example for their stage image. Skinheads became even more popular thanks to Richard Allen's novels Skinhead and Skinhead Escapes, which featured plenty of sex scenes and fights.

However, by the beginning of the 70s, the former popularity of skinheads began to decline. Many of the representatives of this trend moved to other groups and began to call themselves in a new way: suedeheads, smoothies or bootboys. Previous trends that were once characteristic of mods, such as brogues, suits, slacks and sweaters, have returned to fashion.

At the end of the 70s, the skinhead subculture was resurrected again, thanks to the emerging punk movement. Around the same time, for the first time in the history of this subculture, some skinhead groups became involved in politics, and began to adhere to far-right movements such as the National Front and the British Movement.

Since 1979, the number of skinheads has increased significantly. One of the most favorite pastimes of these young people was fighting on football matches. However, despite this, among them there were still those who were guided by the previous style. One way or another, such behavior attracted widespread attention from the press. Skinheads, just like fashion once upon a time new threat to society.

Ultimately, the skinhead subculture went far beyond the borders of Britain and continental Europe, appearing in Australia and the USA, but with its own local specifics.

Style

Traditional skinheads take as a basis the style of the original subculture that arose in the 60s of the twentieth century.

The Oi! skinhead movement was heavily influenced by 70s punk culture, so their appearance is somewhat different. They usually have more short hair

• , taller shoes and skinnier jeans. Tattoos have become popular among skinheads at least since the “revival” of the movement in the 70s. In the 1980s in the UK you might even find skinheads with tattoos on their foreheads or faces, although this practice is no longer as common. American skinheads preferred to adhere to the hardcore style, and this is one of their territorial features.

Most skinheads cut their hair with a razor with a No. 2 (sometimes No. 3) attachment. Thus, the hairstyle was short and neat, but the head did not appear completely bald. However, over time, hair length became shorter and shorter, and by the 80s, some representatives shaved their hair “clean up”. Among skinheads it is usually not customary to wear a mustache and beard, but sideburns are extremely popular and have always been carefully maintained.

As for girls, in the 60s most of them continued to adhere to the mod style, however, starting from the 80s, the Chelsea haircut became especially popular, when the hair on the top of the head was shaved very short, leaving the back, temples and bangs long. Some girls preferred a more punk version, leaving only their bangs and temples long.

• Clothes and accessories

First of all, skinheads have always been famous for their button-down shirts, short or long sleeves, and polo shirts. Favorite brands include Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Brutus, Warrior or Jaytex. Also popular are shirts or Everlast, shirts with button-down collars, V-neck sweaters or similar sleeveless vests, as well as cardigans and T-shirts. Some skinheads targeting Oi! or the hardcore scene wore plain white shirts. This style was especially common in North America. The most popular jackets were harringtons, bombers, denim jackets (usually blue, sometimes decorated with light spots using bleach), dunk jackets, crombie coats, parkas and much more. Traditional skinheads sometimes wore costumes made from a special fabric (a shiny material resembling terrycloth, the color of which shimmered depending on the angle and light).

Many of the skinheads preferred Sta-Prest trousers or jeans, mostly brands , or . Typically, the trouser legs were rolled up to emphasize the beauty of high boots or open if the legs were wearing moccasins or brogues at the time. Sometimes the jeans were also decorated with bleach stains. This style was especially popular among Oi! skinheads.

The girls wore almost everything the same, and in addition mini-, fishnet stockings or short skirt suits with ¾-length sleeves.

Most skinheads wore suspenders that were no more than one inch wide. Wider suspenders may be associated with the far-right neo-fascist wing of White Power skinheads. Traditionally, suspenders are crossed at the back, however some Oi! oriented skinheads don't do this. Traditional skinheads wear black or white suspenders, sometimes decorated with vertical stripes. Often, due to the color of this accessory, skinheads determine the group to which its owner belongs.

The most common headdresses among skinheads were: pork-pie hat, felt hats, caps, woolen winter hats (without a tassel). A less common option were bowler hats. They were mainly preferred by iceheads and fans cult film"A Clockwork Orange"

Traditional skinheads also often wore silk in the breast pocket of their crombie coat or in the pocket of a suit made of a favorite iridescent material. Often a given piece of fabric was chosen in a contrasting color. Sometimes it was wrapped around a small piece of cardboard so that it looked like a neatly folded handkerchief from the outside. Among skinheads, it was customary to choose colors that corresponded to their favorite football club. Sometimes wool or silk scarves with the symbols of their favorite team were wrapped around the neck, wrist or belt loop.

Some iceheads carried canes, which is why they received another nickname: brolly boys (from the English brolly - umbrella).

• Shoes

Initially, skinheads wore simple military boots from army supplies. Later, Dr. brand work boots became popular in this environment. Martens, especially cherry colored ones. Them skinheads they polished them to a shine and always made sure that their favorite shoes looked neat. In addition, skinheads wore brogues, moccasins and low Dr. boots. Martens. During the 60s of the twentieth century, Dr. high boots became especially popular. Martens with steel toes hidden under the leather, which turned out to be quite appropriate in street fights. IN last years

skinheads switched to other brands of shoes such as Solovair or Tredair because Dr. Martens are no longer produced in England. Gradually, sports shoes of the brands or Gola became fashionable among skinheads, in which they were comfortable to attend football matches.

For a time, skinheads preferred to wear boots painted in the colors of their favorite club, but over time, the color of the shoes, like the suspenders, began to carry symbolic meaning.

She talked about the history of the style of the skinhead subculture in her homeland in Great Britain in the 1960s and 70s. This time we will talk about the fashion of Russian skinheads, who, unlike the British, mainly shared nationalist views from the late 1980s to the present day.

Guys in military uniform

Why do you wear Levi's? Your Levi's are Jewish jeans.

- Because when I returned from Iraq, my brother gave me these jeans. Does he understand what we are fighting for? No. But I definitely won't let the Zionist conglomerate decide what I wear.

Film "Absolute Power" 2016


Right-wing and far-right movements in Russia began to emerge in the mid-1980s, and clothing, of course, was one of the important elements with which nationalists formed their image. Nationalist movements of the 1980s like the Memory Society emerged from the Society for the Protection of Monuments. The movement was reimagining historical processes, its participants were engaged in re-enactors and wore “White Guard” uniforms, mostly consisting of modified Soviet army uniforms.

Later, their own military uniform appeared, consisting of black tunics with shoulder straps, black trousers tucked into black cow boots, black tunics with a stand-up collar and shoulder straps. In winter, overcoats, caps and caps with oval cockades of the “royal” type were used. On the buttons there were not Soviet stars with a hammer and sickle, but royal double-headed eagles. The reconstruction of the Cossack uniform was also popular. Now people in Cossack uniforms have become a standard landscape in the urban environment, but in the late 1980s they looked extremely shocking.

The “monuments” were replaced by more militarized Barkashovites. The dress code of this formation consisted of a black military uniform, beret, military boots and armband. Many participants in the movement, especially in the regions, wore ordinary military uniforms, which they brought from the army or bought at the nearest military store.

In Russia, the fashion for retro military uniforms quickly became a thing of the past, but in the United States it still exists - these days, participants in the National Socialist Movement (NSM) hold their rallies in a uniform that clearly copies the uniform of the NSDAP of the last century. The Ku Klux Klan remains faithful to the same white robes as 150 years ago.

Military style in general is distinctive sign right-wing in the United States. And this is not so much a tribute to fashion as a lifestyle - the same way of life that skinheads spoke about in the 1960s and 70s in Great Britain. Many right-wing skinheads, especially in the States, served in the army. In Germany, neo-Nazi cells in the ranks of the Bundeswehr are being systematically uncovered.

As a result, the military uniform was and remains an important element of right-wing skinhead fashion throughout the world. The right in the United States tends to be closely associated with militarized radical structures such as citizen militias. The fashion for these people is formed in the military stores in their neighborhood.

Not surprisingly, in January 2017, a gun store posted an ad that showed supposed customers confronting a crowd of anti-fascists. The poster read: “Anti-fascists, today is not your day.” Many modern brands, aimed at the far-right public, have military-style items in their collections. Moreover, now we can see the rebirth of the favorite skinhead brand of the 1990s, Alpha Industries, which originally sewed clothing for the US Armed Forces.

Modern designers have revived the fashion for bomber jackets by including them in their new 2013 collections. Alexander McQueen, Dior, Victor&Rolf offer leather bomber jackets with contrasting cuffs and buttons. Stella McCartney has designed a bomber jacket made from lace, silk and cashmere. Pinko designers also did not abandon a lightweight version of the jacket, sewing it from mint-colored nylon and decorating it with lace inserts and embroidery on the back.

Bomber life-giving

School bell...

First lesson...

Bomber and knife.
Beat the devils, destroy them all!



Tsunar was the first to accept this knife
Bomber saved you - your best friend.
Blood is dripping from his bomber jacket
This was done by a bribed cop.
Metal corrosion, “Beat the devils”

In the early 1990s, people came to the right-wing mainly from the fan movement. At that time in Russia, these subcultures were for the most part inextricably linked. Most of the far-right fashionistas refused to take part in large movements like RNE (“Russian national unity") and was very skeptical about their baggy shape. The main attribute of a skinhead in the 1990s was a bomber jacket or M65 field jacket. Few could buy the original jacket for a reason: high price- bombers are much more expensive than leather jackets from Turkey, which were worn by gopniks and bros of all stripes.

Frame: the film “Russia 88”

Soon, demand gave rise to supply, and inexpensive Chinese black bombers with the famous orange lining appeared in markets in many cities across the country. Their prices were more than reasonable. These jackets were worn almost all year round: in winter, they wore a warm sweater knitted by their grandmother under them. The original M-65 jacket did not have a collar to make it easier for the pilot to place the parachute straps. Among skinheads there was a story that this was done specifically so that in a fight the enemy could not grab you by the collar.

The orange lining also had its own functionality. The pilot needed it in case of an emergency landing: he had to turn his jacket inside out so that he could be easier to find from the air. Fans turned their jackets inside out to make it easier to understand who was theirs and who was a stranger in the fight. According to one version, the inventors of this were Spartak hooligans from the “firm” Flint’s Crew.

In particular very coldy many wrapped a “rose” (scarf) of their favorite team around their necks.

Camouflage pants were in use, which were also purchased on the market due to the availability there fashionable colors in contrast to the dull, baggy green items from the military store. Especially advanced users wore jeans invariably blue, but again, due to their high cost, they were not widely used, especially in the regions. The finishing touch is combat boots. In the provinces, many marched in them until the 2000s.

You also cannot ignore the use of such an accessory as suspenders. The most popular were suspenders in the colors of the Russian or German tricolor. Then came the fashion for narrow suspenders, which were in short supply. Suspenders were not just a wardrobe element - lowered suspenders meant that “a fighter is ready for a fight,” so many wore suspenders exclusively in this form, emphasizing their brutality.

Shoe cult

The first store of the "Doctor and Alex" company - "Footwear of the XXI Century" began operating on October 1, 1998 in the Voikovskaya metro area. This truly epoch-making event finally gave the Moscow public access to the famous Dr. boots. Martens, Grinders and Shelly's. The most popular were Grinders boots with a high top and the same metal glass. Similar boots were worn by the main character of the film " American history X" in famous stage murder of an African American, which entered folklore as “curb bite.”

This scene became a direct guide to action for many skinheads of that time. Grindar was literally flying off the shelves. True, unlike Chinese bombers, not everyone could afford them. The response to the popularity of “grinders” was the emergence of the Russian company Camelot. She positioned herself as a Polish brand and made shoes that resembled the samples English stamps, but at much more reasonable prices.

As a rule, boots were worn with black laces, but the most desperate ones wore white ones, which said that their owner had cleared the land of foreigners. The famous Panzer boots with swastikas and zig runes on the soles, released by the American brand Aryan wear, became a pipe dream for many skins. This dress code was classic in the late 1990s and early 2000s. The standard skinhead look of the time included high-top boots, camouflage pants or rolled-up jeans, suspenders, a T-shirt with a radical image and a bomber jacket.

When the far-right movement radicalized by the mid-2000s, and serious sentences began to be given for crimes motivated by national hatred, such a fashion came to naught. At the end of the decade, antifa skinheads dressed in a similar way, trying to revive the spirit of 1969 in this way. Young people who remain faithful to the traditions of this fashion can still be found today, but this can only be regarded as cosplay of those times.

The fashion for heavy boots has faded. The American right-wing brand Aryan wear has closed. Shelly's, with its famous Rangers model, specializes in women's shoes, and Grinders began producing cowboy boots. The only brand that remained true to its roots and managed to survive the competition was Dr. Martens. Moreover, in 2010, the brand got a second wind : classic shoes of the 1460 model began to appear in the wardrobes of people who were very far from skinhead fashion. Alice Erskine and other top stars were seen wearing Dr. Martens.

However, in Great Britain the traditional style of skinheads has been preserved. There are families where skinhead traditions are passed on from father to son. Of course, instead of Chinese fakes, European skinheads who adhere to traditions wear original Dr. Martens, Levi's jeans, Fred Perry polo or plaid shirts and original Ben Sherman jackets. This type of style no longer says anything specific about a person’s political views

Fashionable guys

Remember I'm cool now

 I have my own Lonsdale.

I bought it at Children's World

 Clock work times - Lonsdale

“Five minutes later, another mob passed by, clearly trying to merge with the first. And another one in ten. Mostly they were young guys, about 20 years old, dressed in the fashion of their hardcore: gingham shirts, blue jeans, sneakers. Almost no one had our favorite weapon, titanium guns, but most of the fighters were carrying packages in their hands, and everyone had glass bottles in their hands. Well, strategists, the scribe is on your shaved heads! - these are lines from the book “Die, Old Lady” by Sergei Spiker Sakin, which he wrote in 2003.

Around this time period, hooligans and right-wing skinheads began to move away from the fashion of heavy boots and bomber jackets. There are several reasons for this.

Skinheads are members of a subculture that emerged in working-class London in the 1960s and has spread throughout the world. Unfortunately, many people equate the word "skinhead" with "racism", but the movement was associated with working class values, the flamboyant style of the rough Jamaican boys and the British worldview; in fact, many of the first skinheads were black. Over time, skinhead style and politics have split into several subgroups based around different ideals, which can be overwhelming to a newcomer when speaking. If you want to understand the differences between the types of skinheads and start living their lifestyle, then see Step 1.

Steps

Accept the beliefs

Know the differences between the different political sectors. Skinhead politics comes in several forms, from neo-Nazism to political apathy. Many skinhead groups focus on music or labor rights and have nothing to do with racism. Before you decide to become a skinhead, you must understand the differences in the political sectors of this group of people:

• Anti-racist (skinheads who are against racial prejudice or SHARPS) skinheads are aggressively opposed to neo-Nazism and racism, although they do not always take this position on other political issues. The SHARP label is sometimes used to describe all anti-racist skinheads, even if they are not members of the SHARP organization.
• Apolitical, centrist or anti-political skinheads keep their Political Views outside the skinhead subculture. They have a sense of workers' pride, but not in a political sense. Most traditional skinheads or "Trojans" fit into this category.
• Left-wing skinheads are anti-racist and anti-fascist groups, adopting a militant pro-worker and socialist stance. The most well-known organization in this category is the Red and Anarchist Skinheads (RASH).
• Right-wing skinheads are, as a rule, conservative and patriotic, but not always extreme and fascist. This type of skinhead is very common in the United States.
• White power or neo-Nazi skinheads are racist, extremely nationalistic and highest degree political. Despite the common name, many neo-Nazi skinheads have nothing in common with traditional skinheads in terms of style or interests. SHARPs and traditional skinheads often refer to them as boneheads or Hammerskins (which is a specific organization as well as a general term). Racist skinheads are found primarily in prisons, as part of the Aryan Brotherhood or other white supremacist gangs.

1. Understand various styles skinheads. Before calling yourself a skinhead, it is important to have an understanding of various types skinheads who relate to the working class, music and culture, not just politics. Once you decide on your skinhead style and political affiliation, you can start looking for a sect that suits you. You can read more detailed information about skinheads in the second section of the article. Here are several types of skinheads based on their style and interests:

   • Traditional skinheads. These skinheads are also known as Trojans or "Trojans". They do not believe in political and racial prejudices, which are not central to the subculture and focus on the music or culture rather than them. They also consider themselves to be the first skinheads to focus on pro-labor rights and ideas about music in the 1960s. They wear a silk scarf in their breast pocket, pocket lighters, patches that symbolize their beliefs, or badge buttons.
   • Oi! skins and punk skinheads. These skinheads scream Oi! And they listen to punk music. They are known for their tattoos, short hair and high boots, tight clothing and flight jackets. Real Oi! The groups are largely based on pro-labor beliefs, although today the political beliefs of such skinheads run the gamut.
   • Hardcore skins. This group of skinheads originates in the United States. They are part of the hardcore punk music scene, which includes bands such as Sheer Terror, Murphy's Law and Warzone. Their appearance is more casual: buggy pants, windbreakers and hoodies.

2. Be clear about your beliefs. You can become a skinhead due to some political beliefs or avoid it altogether. Whatever you choose, look at what is closest to your beliefs and faith. Find a skinhead group in your area and make sure your beliefs align with theirs. Don't be influenced to believe something that is not meaningful or authentic to you.

   • Once you have decided what type of skinhead you want to be, you should do your research. If your skinhead type centers around a belief in music, be it ska, reggae or hardcore punk, then you should go to concerts, listen to albums and do everything possible to be in the know without being called a poser.
   • As a rule, skinheads abstain from hard drugs, so if you choose to be that kind of skinhead, you should also abstain from them completely.
   • Skinheads, as you know, live off honest and conscientious labor. See if you can do this.

3. Be prepared to defend your beliefs. When people see you dressing like a skinhead, some may automatically assume that you are a neo-Nazi or a white supremacist. Whether this is true or not, be prepared to talk to them calmly and rationally about your beliefs. When people see that you are a skinhead, they can make many wrong assumptions about you.

   • Be prepared for the consequences of your appearance, have a precise plan to explain who you are, what you believe and why. If you are not racist, it may take some effort to explain to people who have some misconceptions about skinheads that your movement was not racist in the first place.

We accept the image

1. Trim or shave your hair. Traditionally, since the 1960s, skinheads have been identified by having short hair or a shaved head. However, not all skinheads did this. Mohawks and high shaved haircuts are common among some groups. If you decide to shave your hair, then use a machine with level 2 or 3. Nowadays, many skinheads do not shave their heads with a clipper; some of them even do it with a blade. In addition, most skinheads do not wear beards, mustaches or other facial hair.

   • Some skinheads were known for their neatly trimmed sideburns.
   • Skinhead girls wore short haircuts in the 1960s and then in the 1980s, they began sporting the feathered cut, where the hair is shorter in the middle of the head and has long locks hanging down the front, back and sides, giving it a feathered appearance. Some skinhead girls even shaved their hair completely and left only bangs or front strands.
   • Some believe that originally, when skinheads shaved their heads in the 1960s, it was a rebellion against hippie culture, among whom long hair was common at the time.

2. Wear the right skirts and pants. Straight-leg dark washed out jeans with the cuffs rolled up (to show off the boots) are common among many men's groups skinheads. Lee or Wrangler jeans were common among such groups. Flat trousers and bleach (bleach was sprayed onto the trousers to create a camouflage-like pattern) and BDU combat trousers or cut-off shorts were popular among punks and Oi! skinheads. Skinhead girls wore the same trousers with the addition of camouflage or plaid miniskirts, regular skirts and fishnet stockings.

   Wear knitted shirts. Working class longshoremen in Britain were the first skinheads, and their warm knit sweaters became the basis of skinhead fashion. Long-sleeve V-neck sweaters or vests were typically worn over button-down shirts or a contrasting T-shirt. Button-down cardigans were preferred among skinhead girls. When the skinhead movement first started, they couldn’t afford expensive things and spent all their money on good jackets and elegant clothes to wear to the club.

   Try adding suspenders or shaped buckles. Some skinheads wear suspenders or shaped buckles over their shirts. They can come in a variety of colors and patterns, but are typically between a half and an inch wide. If your braces are wider, you'll look like White Power skinheads, or you just don't know what you're doing.

   Wear a coat or sweatshirt. Harrington jackets, with red checkered lining, and Bomber flight jackets, black or olive green, are the most popular clothing among skinheads. A sheepskin coat, dark or checkered coat is also suitable. Donkey jackets, with or without PVC shoulders, date back to British dockers and are also fashionable among skinheads. Additionally, dark pullovers or zip-up sweatshirts are usually worn by several different groups....

   Wear skinhead shoes. Again, since the first skinheads were dockers, army boots or combat boots remain the favorite footwear of skinheads. Dr. Martens (aka Docs, Doc Martens or DMS) boots are a favorite choice for men and women. Several skinheads also wear Adidas sambas. Moccasins, monkey boots and old shoes bowling alleys are also popular. For the most part, male and female skinheads wear the same types of shoes.

3. Add laces. Boots and other footwear, as a rule, are all tied, with loose laces. In other words, black the best choice for laces, since white laces on black shoes often mean you're a Hammerskin (white power skinhead). Color designations depend on the region, but, as a rule, white laces mean belonging to the white power, but old-school skinheads believe that drawing conclusions about the beliefs of a skinhead by the color of his laces (they call it “lace making”) is the lot of “carlans” (that’s what newcomers are called in move).

   • Look for local skinheads. You can find them at ska, hardcore or punk concerts.
   • If you shave your head or cut your hair as short as possible, make sure you capture the hair at the back of your head.
   • Some skinheads have a lot of tattoos, sleeves are especially popular. Wait at least 6 months after becoming a skinhead and think carefully before putting ink on your body.
   • If you don't want to get caught in the middle of the slam that usually occurs at punk or hardcore concerts, stick to the edge of the room. Otherwise, remember that they are wearing heavy boots with metal toes, and do not get under their feet.

Have you perhaps come across groups of young people with shaved heads, wearing the same black jeans and camouflage jackets without collars, wearing high combat boots, with the flag of the slaveholding Confederacy sewn on the sleeve? These are skinheads, or, in other words, skinheads. They call themselves the short word “skins”. Now almost no one writes about them, but among teenagers big cities they are already a legend.

The first skinheads appeared in England in 1968. Today's followers would be surprised to learn that their predecessors got along well with mulattoes and blacks. The fact is that skins appeared as a working, and not a racial, subculture, directed against both the official culture and in defiance of many alternative movements. For example, they considered rockers “fake” because they were a threat to the roads only on weekends, and on weekdays they worked hard in the office. The one skinheads didn’t like were the “Pakis” (Pakistanis). And not as foreigners, but as traders. And the blacks and Arabs who worked with the skinheads in the same factories were their own guys.

Skinheads of the “first wave” got along well with mulattoes and blacks

The first skinheads were not skinheads literally words, it’s just that their short haircuts with sideburns contrasted with the then fashionable long hair. The style of clothing was not “militaristic”, but proletarian: coarse wool jackets or short coats with a leather yoke, rough trousers with an “eternal arrow”, a long, knee-length zoot jacket and heavy, durable high boots for construction workers and dockers. The first skinheads had no followers, and by 1973, when the guys grew up and started families, the movement faded away.

Skinheads of the “first wave”, 60s of the XX century

Skinheads were revived in the late 70s, when Margaret Thatcher's government liquidated entire sectors of the economy, which led to an unprecedented increase in unemployment and unrest in the so-called depressed regions. The new skins were no longer a working aristocracy, but a declassed environment; they were brought up not on relaxed reggae, but on aggressive punk rock. These guys beat all the immigrants indiscriminately because they were “taking their jobs.” Neo-Nazi ideologists worked with the new skinheads. Skin clubs emerged, and the slogan “Keep Britain white!” was heard for the first time.

"Let's keep Britain white!" - slogan of the “second wave” skinheads

Then the “first wave” skinheads emerged from their apartments, furious that their movement had become associated with the fascists. Fights between “old” and “new” skinheads took on the character of street riots (especially in Glasgow). The result of these clashes was the emergence of two skin movements - on the one hand, the Nazi skins ("new"), on the other, the "red skins", "red skins" ("old"). Externally, the red skins differed only in stripes with portraits of Lenin, Mandela, Che Guevara and sometimes red laces in their shoes. They became widespread in England, France, Poland, and Spain. Nazi skins took root in Germany, Holland, Scandinavia, Canada, the USA, and later in France, Denmark, and Belgium.

Hoxton Tom McCourt, bass player for The 4-Skins, 1977

In Europe, Germany has become an outpost of the Nazi-skin movement

In America there were groups of white skinheads, black skinheads, Puerto Rican skinheads, Jewish skinheads, and Latin American skinheads. In Germany, the Nazi Skins became famous not only for beating guest workers (foreign workers, mainly Turks and Kurds), but also for killing them. At the same time, the judges, who were more afraid of the “Red Terror,” showed rare favor to the skinheads (in the 80s in Germany, skinheads were convicted only once for the murder of the Turk Ramazan Avsi in the summer of 1986).

Meanwhile, skinheads turned into a political force: they smashed anti-fascists and dealt with trade unions. The authorities realized who they were dealing with when in 1987 in Lindau the skins attacked Christian believers during church holiday in St. Stephen's Cathedral (the city authorities refused to provide a municipal hall for the skinhead convention). The Vatican intervened, and the police clamped down on the skinheads.

Skinheads appeared in Russia in the early 90s

But the Berlin Wall soon collapsed, and the ranks of skinheads swelled with Germans from East Germany, where unemployment and despair reigned among the youth. German neo-fascists began to be considered throughout the world as “experts” in working with youth, and Germany in the 90s became notorious for setting fire to immigrant dormitories.

After the collapse of the Eastern Bloc, skinheads appeared in Poland, the Czech Republic, Croatia, Bulgaria and Russia.

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Skinheads, colloquial. skins (English skinheads, from skin - skin and head - head) - a collective name for representatives of the youth subculture, as well as several of its branches. The first mentions of skinheads in the press and music were found in England in the late 60s of the 20th century. One of the first names of the subculture was "Hard Mods". Skinheads of the 60s had common features style with the mod subculture, as well as with the Jamaican rudboys.

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Appearance Skinheads largely replicate the appearance of the mods: Fred Perry and Ben Sherman polos and sweaters, Levi's jeans, a classic Crombie coat and Dr. Martens boots, but besides this it also has its own characteristics. To the basic appearance were added: plaid shirts, denim jackets , thin suspenders and rolled up jeans (the latter have become a kind of “ business card"style). Long mod jackets are gone. Appearance

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Jamaican music arrived in England with the first immigrants from Jamaica in the early 1960s. New music from the former British colony gave preference to fashion, which was later adopted by skinheads. In the late 70s and early 80s, Oi music became popular! - further development punk rock. Music

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Symbolism 1. Celtic cross 2. Odal 3. Aryan fist 4. Iron cross 5. Zig 6. Death's head

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The Celtic cross is an equal-beam cross with a circle. It is a characteristic symbol of Celtic Christianity, although it has more ancient pagan roots. In the 80s of the 20th century, the Celtic cross became a symbol of White Power - the movement of white racists and NS skinheads. Odal (ᛟ) (Old German Oþila - “legacy”, Anglo-Saxon Oeþel) is the 24th rune of the Old Germanic and 23rd rune of the Anglo-Saxon runic alphabets. The Odal rune is depicted on the emblem of the 7th SS Volunteer Mountain Division "Prinz Eugen", the 23rd SS Volunteer Panzergrenadier Division "Nederland" and on the flag of the Croatian Volksdeutsche. The Iron Cross is a Prussian and German military award. Established by Frederick William III on March 10, 1813 for military distinction in the war for the liberation of Germany from Napoleon. The death's head is a symbol of death and at the same time fearlessness in the face of it in the form of a skull and crossbones (usually white or silver on a black background). This symbol is also used by some modern neo-Nazi organizations, such as Combat 18.

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Various directions of movement Traditional Skinheads - arose as a reaction to the emergence of pro-political branches from the original subculture. They follow the image of the first skinheads - devotion to the subculture, memory of roots (family, working class), apoliticality. The unofficial slogan is "Remember the Spirit of 69", as it is believed that in 1969 the skinhead movement was at its peak. Closely associated with ska and reggae music, as well as modern music Oi!. R.A.S.H. (eng. Red & Anarchist Skinheads) - “Reds” and anarchist skinheads who inherited the ideas of socialism, communism, and anarchism from the “native” working class. Pro-political movement.

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Hardcore skinheads are an offshoot of skinheads that are primarily associated with the hardcore scene rather than Oi! and ska. Hardcore skinheads became common at the end of the first wave of hardcore. They preserved the ideas of their predecessors and had no racial prejudices. S.H.A.R.P. (eng. Skinheads Against Racial Prejudices) - “Skinheads against racial prejudices.” They appeared in America in the 1980s as a reaction to the stereotype that arose in the media that all skinheads were Nazis. They gave TV and radio interviews where they talked about true values and ideas of the skinhead movement. They used force against NS skinheads.

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NS skinheads (English White Power skinheads or English National Socialist skinheads) - appeared in England in the first half of the 70s. They adhere to right-wing ideologies, nationalists or racists, some advocate the idea of ​​racial separatism and white supremacy (so-called White Power). Due to the fact that racist views contradict the original spirit of the movement, other representatives of the subculture insultingly call NS skinheads boneheads.

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We will talk specifically about NS skinheads, of whom there are quite a lot in our country. NS skinheads position themselves as a national liberation movement and fight for the ideas of superiority of the white, Aryan race, while striving for racial separatism. NS skinheads are extreme racists, anti-Semites and xenophobes, opponents of illegal immigration, mixed marriages and sexual deviations, especially homosexuality. The subject of hostility in Russia is blacks and Asians, as well as people from Transcaucasia and Central Asia, less often - to the natives of the North Caucasus and the Volga region.

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NS skinheads consider themselves defenders of the interests of the working class, in some cases citing the fact that newcomers occupy jobs. This point is far from the most important in the ideology of neo-Nazis in general, and in particular of NS skinheads, gradually disappearing, just as it was in the NSDAP, where the socialist part of the ideology gradually faded into the background and later completely lost its significance. As participants in right-wing radical movements, NS skinheads are supporters of extreme measures using violence (usually in a particularly brutal form), which is usually interpreted as extremism. Many of them are close to the idea of ​​revolution, that is, a coup d'etat with the aim of establishing a national socialist regime.

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Russian skinheads A peculiarity of Russian skins is their love for the flag of the slaveholding Confederacy during the War between North and South in the United States, usually sewn on the sleeve or, if the patch is large, on the back of the jacket. Badges in the form of a swastika, a portrait of Hitler, the number 88 (that is, “Heit Hitler!”) or the letters WP (“White Power”) are also in use. They do not carry weapons with them, but in fights they use belts with a weighted buckle, wrapped around their hands. The Last Squeak skin fashion - decorate a belt with a supposedly decorative chain (in fact, the chain makes this improvised brass knuckles more dangerous)