We make an electric wood burner from a pulse transformer. Once upon a time as a child, it was considered a given to have an electric wood burner at home. And now, I thought about making a similar device for my son (4 years old). After all, a drawing on paper may not be preserved, while one burned on wood will delight you years later. Yes, and it will be useful for me, as a radio amateur. They can be used to cut plastics when making cases, they can also be soldered, and even cut out PCB. Also, carefully cut the ropes (if you are a climber :-).

The device has two operating modes. In the first position of the switch " norm"(I), it operates at half power: approximately 30-35W. In the second " turbo"(II) - 65-70W. The yellow LED shines in both modes, red only in the second. Indication LEDs are any, not bright ( AL307).

In order to make an electric burner, you will need a cheap ($2-2.5) Chinese-made switching power supply (UPS), 50-60 W, for halogen lamps. You can find them in furniture stores or hardware stores.

Burner circuit

Schematic diagram of an electric burner based on ET

On the Internet, I came across a modification for making a pulse soldering iron. In the case of a burner, minimal modifications to the UPS will be required.

First, remove the board from the case and solder the output transformer. A lot has been written about these schemes, so I won’t go into details. It copes well as an electric burner. Let me just say that bipolar transistors MJE13003 (TUVE13007) can be replaced with more powerful current ones - MJE13005, MJE13007(last digit means operating current). When choosing a UPS, you need to take into account the fact that it should not have short circuit protection!

So, having removed the transformer from the board, it must be disassembled. A lot has also been written about disassembling ferromagnetic transformers. But, I will share my experience. First of all, remove the film and use a knife to remove the glue on the core connection. Afterwards, heat the water in a small container until it boils. But don’t immediately throw it into boiling water, but heat it first warm water. Due to the fact that the quality of these trances is very low, they can break. Therefore, after warming it up a little, we put it in boiling water and leave it there for a few seconds. The procedure can be repeated and try to loosen the winding body, and also run a knife along the seams of the ferrite halves. In the end, you will be able to disassemble it, but do not rush, do everything with caution. In my case, even after breaking such a trance, I did not despair, and connected the four pieces of the core with tape. Some glue the cracked slices, but even without that it works just fine, tightly compressed with adhesive tape.

Having disassembled the transformer, remove the secondary winding, and in its place we wind 3-4 turns of stranded wire with a cross-section of 2.5-4mm2. An electrical cable (mains cable) is suitable for this. The insulation is first removed, and in its place a heat-shrinkable casing of suitable dimensions is put on. Why heat shrink tubing? Because it takes up less space relative to the cable insulation. Now, we wind four turns, with a branch from the third. The voltage on the last turn will be approximately 9.0-10.5V. All that remains is to put the transformer back together and remove the leads, as can be seen in the photographs.

It's time to work on the body of the electric burner. For this we need an aluminum furniture leg. Yes, yes, furniture again! It is very cheap (less than a dollar), but most importantly it is made of 1 mm thick aluminum. Thus, the case will serve as a heat sink for transistors, which get very hot. Square leg height =100mm. The issue of the front panel is also resolved. To do this, we disassemble the leg and leave a plastic plug with which we cut off a part - so that all the components of the product fit. Further, the radiator for transistor switches is also aluminum.

I used a 5mm thick plate radiator. It already had threaded holes, which I later used. But if you find a copper plate, it will definitely serve as a better heat sink. You can also use any other radiator of a suitable size. In addition to this radiator, I connected an aluminum U-shaped profile - you guessed it, also a furniture one, which fits tightly into the square profile of the case.

Like a retreat– in furniture production there are many aluminum profile forms. In the variety of accessories you will find both profiles suitable as radiators and ready-made housing solutions. All that remains is to dream a little and apply these solutions in amateur radio.

The radiator must be in close contact with the body! This way, the heat will be distributed evenly, with greater efficiency, throughout the entire body, without requiring bulky radiators. The U-shaped profile is connected to the radiator plate with a small gap (2-3 mm) through small washers and then we screw this “sandwich” to the plate included in the impulse generator kit. Transistors and the board must be attached through an insulator, also from the UPS. It is preferable to ground the burner housing.

Don’t forget, the device is connected to a mains voltage of 220V, so we take all safety measures during assembly and commissioning!

Now, we drill holes in the plastic front panel for the electric burner operating mode switch - for wires and for LEDs red And yellow glow. We connect the LEDs with limiting resistors with hot glue, as can be seen in the photo.

Next, twist the switch and solder all the wires together (see figure). Switch – P2T-21(Soviet production, maximum switching power up to 660 W with active load). It is necessary to use the most powerful toggle switch possible, otherwise the contacts will overheat! The maximum power of the electric burner reaches 70 watts.

To the body, as legs (anti-slip), we glue self-adhesive cork or silicone (available from glaziers and furniture makers). As a handle, I used a ready-made handle from an industrial burner. And if you make it yourself, then a handle from a burnt soldering iron will do. Or we cut it out of textolite, wood with a fluoroplastic tip of suitable thickness. Fastening for nichrome - the terminals of electrical blocks are just suitable for these purposes.

I found nichrome for tips with a diameter of 0.8-1.5 mm on the radio market. Suitable for different heating devices. It must be bent as in the photographs and the tip flattened with a hammer. I made two types of tips: one from millimeter nichrome - for burning and cutting, the other from one and a half millimeter, for more rough work. Accordingly, the second one will effectively heat in a more powerful operating mode of the device (turbo).

The wire for the electric burner must be selected with a large cross-section and the most flexible. Otherwise it will get warm. Naturally, the electric burner will work intermittently, approximately 15-30 minutes.

Firstly, the efficiency is very low, which leads to large heat losses. And secondly, the handle will heat up, which forces you to work with it cyclically. For more convenient use, I advise you to adapt a push-button pedal (from a sewing machine or from some machine) or a push-button power switch, etc. I did not make additional holes in the case or radiator for heat removal. This is at your discretion, depending on the radiator used.

The device is very easy to manufacture, thanks to ready-made solutions for its assembly. It can be made by any beginner with minimal electronics skills. The main thing is to follow safety rules when working with it. After all, the tip temperature reaches 500-600 degrees.

If you make an electric burner for a child, then the presence of an adult when working with it is required. I hope it brings joy and creative success! ).

Discuss the article ELECTRIC BURNER

Wood burning in modern form is relatively young decorative arts, however, its roots lie in ancient times. In the distant past, the burning method was used mainly to decorate household utensils. Today, the art of burning has become more of a hobby. This craft is practiced not only folk craftsmen, but also children in labor lessons.

What tools are required for wood burning?

To quality finished work meets the highest standards, a wood burning machine is required. Such a tool can be purchased ready-made or made independently. The domestic market is able to offer consumers several options for burning devices. However, all modifications are characterized by the presence of almost the same components:

metal screen;
burning needle;
needle holder;
housings;
power electrical wire.

Wood burning tools are most often powered from a standard 220 V power supply through a transformer. Electric burning devices have an advantage, in which the standard wire is replaced by a cable with a large cross-section ranging from 4 to 6 mm 2. This modification allows you to significantly increase the incandescence of the burning needle.

A standard burning machine with nozzles contains straight needles, the shape of which is better to change yourself to a curved one, bending it at an angle of about 45 degrees. For ease of work, the plane of the burning needle should be processed using a fine file. Thus, you can get the most convenient, universal device with a needle that will allow you to perform burning with both the tip and the plane.

Main types of wood burning devices

The first category includes devices with hard pens, the second - with wire needles. In this case, both types of devices occur through their operation from a standard electrical network. Wire devices have a function for adjusting the temperature of the working surface of the needle.

To understand which wood burning machine will be the most convenient and effective in a given situation, it is enough to familiarize yourself with the specific design of individual options.

Instruments with hard pens limit the choice to only a few available models, since due to the constant filament temperature their functionality remains extremely limited. Attention here should be focused on power, which should be at least 20 watts, otherwise the wood burning machine will significantly slow down its work.

If we talk about burners with wire pens, then their range is much wider compared to the previous category of devices. Therefore, leaning towards this option, it is better for an untrained user to consult a specialist. If we talk about the most advanced, modern devices, here we can highlight a laser for burning wood.

Ultimately, having decided on a specific model, you should make sure that the kit includes a sufficient number of attachments. This will significantly diversify the range of available work.

Advantages and disadvantages of burning devices with hard feathers

Returning to the question of choosing burners with hard feathers, it is worth considering their main advantages and obvious disadvantages. If we talk about the advantages, then such a wood burning machine boasts an affordable, affordable price, extreme ease of use, the highest strength and, accordingly, a long service life.

Among the disadvantages of such devices it is worth highlighting:

long heating and cooling;
strong heating and possible overheating of the handle;
lack of opportunity to implement subtle, skillful artistic ideas;
insufficient comfort of most handles;
there is a high probability of burnout during prolonged use.

Features of burners with wire needles

Any professional burning device with wire needles has a much wider range of advantages compared to the previous category of devices. Such devices are used for the thinnest, artistic work. These devices have enough power to process the hardest types of wood, and it takes no more than a few seconds to fully heat the needle.

The main disadvantages of wire devices include high cost, high cost of repair, difficulty in finding spare parts and components, especially if the burner is homemade and purchased via the Internet. Moreover, wire needles often burn out, become deformed and become completely unusable. Therefore they need frequent replacement.

What materials can be called optimal for burning?

Nowadays, to practice burning, it is not at all necessary to spend time searching for materials and sketches on your own. It is enough to purchase ready set for wood burning. If it is necessary to bring to life the author’s unique idea, wooden blocks, boards, and wood boards can serve as a basis.

It is better to choose well-dried wood for work, which will not warp or deform after completion of the work. An important issue is the selection of the appropriate texture, shade and gloss of the wood species. The best option Small-vascular wood that does not contain pronounced rings and knots can be used for burning.

If suitable materials If you don’t have a burning device at hand or you are using a burning device to teach a child, then for starters it is better to use a wood burning set, which today can easily be ordered on the Internet.

Preparation of material

The surface of the workpiece for burning must be leveled and, if possible, thoroughly sanded with sandpaper. At first, you should not resort to using too much complex drawings. If the image does not correspond to the size of the workpiece, its scale should be reduced or enlarged.

If you don’t want to, you don’t have to draw the design on the workpiece yourself. It is enough to use carbon paper, which will allow you to draw the main outlines of the drawing, which can later be traced with a pencil.

To avoid staining the material, it is better to choose old copy paper. This is the only way to avoid damage to the wooden base, which was carefully sanded and prepared for work.

Wood burning technology

Currently, there are several common wood burning technologies. Silhouette, contour and artistic or pictorial burning are popular among craftsmen. The main differences in these technologies lie primarily in the execution technique and types of patterns.

Contour burning

This technology is most often used by beginners, inexperienced craftsmen. The execution here can be compared to drawing a contour image on a sheet of paper. When performing contour work, the main thing is to keep the hand in the most free position with a well-fixed fulcrum.

All lines must be equal in depth and width. For work, it is better to use the hottest needle possible, reducing the voltage on the transformer to the limit. When making a contour drawing on wood, you should not be overzealous, pressing the needle with force.

Silhouette burning

To use the silhouette burning technique, carefully ground, curved needles are suitable, working surface which must completely concern the material. The needle should be directed along the wood fibers.

Beginners who use the silhouette burning technique are recommended to use moderately hot needles. Only in this case can you achieve the smoothest possible surface texture when completing the work.

Silhouette burning can be used to process fairly impressive areas of wood. At the same time, applying smooth strokes can form not only dark lines. Moving a hot needle at a fast pace makes it possible to obtain the most various shades, starting from the deepest Brown and ending with a light beige pattern.

Artistic burning

The technology is based on a professional combination of both of the above techniques. It is better to make your first attempts at artistic burning from images geometric shapes the simplest form. This approach will allow you to become familiar with the peculiarities of the formation of the effect of the play of light and shadow on the surface of wood.

When doing artistic wood burning, you need to remember the need to draw clear contours of the depicted figures. At the same time, the main task of artistic burning technology is to convey volume in space.

Wood burning [Techniques, techniques, products] Podolsky Yuri Fedorovich

Negative silhouette

As you know, the same object can be drawn by several different ways. This also applies to the silhouette. It is enough just to “invert” it, that is, make the dark contour fill light, and, on the contrary, darken the background. A simple negative silhouette is shown in Fig. 22 above, and a more complex one in the same figure below.

In this manner, you can burn not only portraits. In Fig. 23 above shows how the same tree can be depicted: as a regular graphic, a regular silhouette and a negative silhouette. The plant theme continues with other trees on this page. They are all made in the form of a negative silhouette - light on dark background. As in the negative portrait below, you can add small parts, depicting foliage, etc. The last fragment of Fig. 23 shows an example of a conventional floral ornament made according to the negative principle.

Burning of silhouettes - both ordinary and negative - was popular in the 19th century, and similar works can still be found in antique shops. It is not surprising that a lot of similar silhouettes are found in books and magazines of that time. Despite the fact that over the past century, burning devices have changed beyond recognition, this technique remains one of the simplest and most effective. Of course, some trees are more difficult to burn and others are easier, but silhouette is still the most natural solution when you are dealing with wood that does not allow for fine lines and shades of tone. As you design your own design, be sure to think about how to best balance light and dark areas, and experiment with different silhouette proportions.

Burnout device and rules for working with it

Today, sawing masters not only create wonderful crafts, but also, if desired, give them ornaments using a burner. In this article I will tell you how you can decorate your craft, giving it a beautiful ornament.

For burning you need:

To work, you will first need a burning device. You can buy it at the store, or you can make it yourself.

All burners have approximately the same design:

1. Metal screen;

2. Plastic cap;

3. Needle;

4. A needle holder consisting of a plastic base and two brass tubes pressed into it;

5. Power electrical wire;

6. Pen body.

The burning device operates from a network with a voltage of 220 Volts.

If you have an electric burning device, then it is better to modify it a little for convenient operation. Replace the electrical wire with a wire with a larger cross-section (from 4 to 6 mm2), this will increase the heat of the needle.

When buying straight needles for a burning device, some bend them, some make them sharp, depending on what patterns you want to make. It is best if your needle is bent at an angle of 45°. This can be done using pliers. If you bend the needle, then when working you will get a wide ornament. You can also make a flat needle in order to burn delicate work, such as a painting. To do this, the tip of the needle must be carefully ground off using straight files, then the ground surface must be cleaned with fine-grained sandpaper.

In order for the ornament to turn out beautiful, you do not need to press hard on the needle, but apply light pressure and make repeating movements. It also happens that by pressing hard on the needle, it breaks or, at best, becomes bent.

If the file is broken, you need to replace it with another one. Replacing the needle must be done carefully. Do not under any circumstances change the needle while the burning device is plugged in. To replace the needle, you need to clear the remains of the broken needle from the needle holder by unscrewing the screws using a small screwdriver. Then cut a piece of chrome wire with a diameter of 1 mm and a length of no more than 2.5 mm, then bend it in half. The ends of the wire must be tinned using soldering acid, also called zinc acid.

If the file is bent, you need to unscrew the needle clamps, then pull out the needle and place it on a flat metal surface to straighten it using a small hammer.

Preparation of material

The surface you have prepared must be treated. Before transferring the drawing onto plywood, it is necessary to clean it. After stripping the plywood, choose a simple design that you will not work on for a long time. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions.

Required surface

Species of deciduous finely vascular trees suitable for burning are: aspen, maple, alder and partly birch. It is best if the surface for the burner is pre-sanded with sandpaper. The surface must be free of defects and irregularities. After treatment, the surface should be smooth and matte. If the workpiece material is light wood without shine, then this is a huge plus.

I tried burning and I can say with confidence that it turned out very well! Using a burner, you can give the craft a special contour. For example, you can cut a board for a scorched picture. It will turn out very beautiful.

Burnout

In production, design and finishing teaching aids, devices, models, gaming equipment and various items household items for last years Burning (pyrography) became widespread. Burning is also often used in Skillful Hands circles. It consists of applying various designs, ornaments and inscriptions to the surface of wood, plywood or cardboard products using strong heating with hot metal pins or wires. Upon contact with hot metal, the surface layer of the material becomes charred. Depending on the temperature of the metal tip and the duration of contact, traces of greater or less depth, painted in various shades of brown, remain on the surface of the product.

In Skillful Hands circles, burning is carried out in the vast majority of cases using electric burners operating at a voltage of 2-3-4 volts. To obtain a current of this voltage, school educational step-down transformers, transformers from children's Electrical Constructor sets, and others suitable for voltage and power are usually used. Depending on the latter, several electric burners can be connected to one transformer at once

Figure 1 shows the design of a homemade electric burner, proposed by the author and widely used in children's amateur technical circles. On a handle made of 5-6 mm plywood or plank (A) two metal strips (B) are secured. To the free ends of these strips, using small screws and nuts, attach a loop (B) made of nichrome wire 0.4-0.5 mm thick (usually wire from spirals to electric stoves is used for this purpose). The ends of an electrical cord connected to the terminals of the transformer are attached to the opposite ends of the strips. When the transformer is connected to the network, wire B becomes heated, and its pointed middle part burns out. The heat of the electric burner wire should not be too strong so that there are no flashes when touching the surface of the wood.

Rice. 1. Electric burner

A- pen; B- metal strips; IN— a loop made of nichrome wire (all dimensions in millimeters). On the right is an electric burner connected to a step-down transformer

Rice. 2. Burning along contours

When burning wood and plywood, the best results are obtained when using soft wood: linden, poplar and alder. On harder wood, such as birch or maple, the burnt pattern has a reddish tint. It is difficult to achieve the required uniformity of depth and color of individual strokes on planks or plywood made of hard, large-porous wood, as well as wood in which soft layers alternate with hard ones (oak, ash, pine, spruce, larch).

The most common are contour burning (Fig. 2), burning with the transfer of shades of chiaroscuro (Fig. 4) and silhouette burning - with continuous shading of silhouettes or background (Fig. 3). The so-called decorative burning is very often used - with sharply defined contours and equally sharp and rich shadows.

Rice. 3. Silhouette burning Rice. 4. Burning with shades of chiaroscuro

Rice. 5. Stencils and templates for burning

For burning, drawings from special albums are used, but most often graphic compositions are created according to the instructions of the circle leader. When decorating the burning of various household items - frames, shelves, boxes, etc. - use folk ornaments and motives.

Designs for burning are transferred to carefully cleaned and sanded parts in the same way as for sawing.

To ensure that the lines of the drawings do not turn out too bold, use carbon paper that has already been used.

When burning ornaments, many board games, puzzles and other crafts, when the same elements of the design have to be transferred to plywood many times, stencils and templates are widely used (Fig. 5).

The surfaces of products decorated with burnt patterns or contours are usually varnished with a light alcohol varnish or covered with wax paste. After burning, some homemade items are first painted and then varnished. For coloring use transparent watercolor paints, aqueous solutions of aniline dyes and colored ink.

Operating rules

With a burning device:

1. Before work, straighten the wires of the burning device and constantly make sure that they do not twist.

2. Do not operate the electric burning device for more than two hours at a time. Take breaks every 30-40 minutes and ventilate the room.

3. Choose the brightest time of day to work. In the evening, make sure there is good lighting. The light should hit the material from the left.

4. If you make a small mistake, use a safety razor blade. You can only work with a razor along the grain. Try to use it as little as possible.

5. When working, take care of the surface of the material. To avoid getting your work dirty, place it under your arm Blank sheet paper.

The art of painting with fire, called pyrography, is now experiencing a rebirth. Masters are able to create magnificent works artistic arts using only one burning apparatus. Of course, in order to start painting with fire on a wooden surface, you must at least acquire this very surface. A piece of pre-sanded and smoothed plywood is perfect for such an important mission. You also need a desire to create beautiful masterpieces (you most likely already have this). And of course, you can’t do without a wood burning machine.

Before you buy the first device you come across, you need to know something about all of these devices. We need to start with the fact that there are two types of burning devices: hard-feather and wire.

Solid pen

The device with a hard pen is very similar to an ordinary soldering iron. Sometimes it is even used in the same way as a soldering iron. It has a hard, thick, heated nib that can be used to burn designs onto wooden surfaces.

Hard pen machines have a wide range of attachments for burning out various designs.

Wire feather

The second type of burning apparatus is equipped with a thin wire loop. Under the influence of electrical voltage, it heats up, and this allows you to begin burning the selected design. With this device you can draw more delicate patterns that require thin and neat lines. These devices do not have attachments that complement the main wire loop.

Modern children are drawn to this type of art. Believe me, there are a huge number of truly passionate future pyrographers. This will be confirmed by the fact that a large number of burning devices for children are still supplied to outlets, and, as before, they are all sold out. This is a good sign!

Try inviting your child to take up an exciting hobby - pyrography. It doesn't matter if you have a boy or a girl. Anyone will enjoy this activity equally. Pyrography instills perseverance and diligence in children. It also develops artistic and innovative thinking in the child. For example, the “Pattern” burning machine is perfect for classes with children over 8 years old.

General characteristics of the "Pattern" device

The device copes well with any wooden surfaces during operation. Uniform heating of the pen ensures a clear and accurate drawing. The burning apparatus is small in size, which is very important. But, despite all its modest appearance, a power of 20 W is quite enough to work long and productively. The “Pattern” receives power from a regular 220 V outlet. The stand under the device and the adjustment of the pen heating make this burning device convenient during operation.

The device usually comes with several templates for future drawings. You can also use ready-made frames with a pattern printed on them. A child will be quite capable of these stories.

There are burning kits with both more simple drawings, as well as with more complex ones. If, while your child was mastering the art of pyrography, you also uncontrollably wanted to start burning on wood and other surfaces - do not restrain yourself. Allow yourself to enjoy this exciting and beneficial art therapy! Moreover, this device is not only purchased for children. It is often purchased by mature and serious people for their creativity.