How to properly set up a new camera for the first time for a beginner. Tricks, tips and tricks for Canon DSLRs

Ah, these wonderful Canon cameras that are just begging to be held! Everyone who works hard, saving money for the coveted EOS, knows what they are doing. Canon cameras are distinguished by high performance speed, enviable autofocus, high image quality and simply magical color reproduction. This is why many photographers (both new and old-school) can spend hours drooling over the display window, looking at the most powerful boxes and lenses.
Since you already own a dream and are eager to learn how to manage it, we suggest, as part of general development, to understand the brands of Canon cameras.

What do the numbers and letters on your camera brand mean?

Most “beginner photographers” who consider themselves at least Lezek Buznowski have no idea what EOS stands for. If you ask such a “professional” what the letter D in the brand of his camera means, he, with an embarrassed look, quietly tries to go to Wikipedia. Well, perhaps a real talent does not need this knowledge, and only those who like to show off in the company of friends remember such things, but we believe that in order to learn photography, you must know Canon by heart.

• The abbreviation EOS (Electro-Optical System) is consonant with the name of the goddess of dawn Eos, who can be found in ancient Greek mythology. The first camera in this series was the Canon EOS 650, which was released back in 1987.
• The D in the name stands for Digital.
• Cameras with 3 or 4 digits in their names (EOS 400D, EOS 1000D) are positioned as cameras for beginners.
• If the name has one or two numbers, but they do not start with one (EOS 33V, EOS 30D), then this is a semi-professional camera.
• Canon for professionals is: EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 1D X, EOS 1D C.

Now you are sitting in front of the monitor, and in your hands, for example, a Canon 600d - how to take photographs?

How to take photographs correctly: Canon for beginners

It is known that in Auto mode the camera independently selects the settings so that the result is a suitable exposure. But it’s worth considering that if you shoot in difficult lighting, even the coolest camera won’t always be able to cope with its task. Moreover, you want to learn how to take photographs with a Canon DSLR, using all the possibilities, and not just randomly press a button and wait for your luck. You can take a good photo only after you master the basic settings. Only then will you intuitively figure out how to photograph on 500d, 550d, 7d, 1100d, 600d, 650d, 60d, 1000d and other “d”.

There are three main settings and all of them are related to light in one way or another:

• Aperture is the size of the “hole” opened by the camera that allows light to pass through. The wider the aperture is open, the more light there is in the picture: everything is logical here.
• Shutter speed is the time for which you allow light to enter the camera's sensor.
• Photosensitivity (ISO) – the higher the photosensitivity, the more light the matrix receives.

Learning to set Canon settings correctly

The aperture of your camera is designated as “f/” + a number that will demonstrate how open/closed the “hole” is that allows light to pass through. If you want a blurry background, open the aperture; if you want a completely clear photo, close it. The wider the aperture is open, the smaller the number next to “f/”.

By adjusting the aperture value, you can focus on a specific object and draw the viewer's attention to the subject you have chosen. Like here:

An open aperture works amazingly well in pictures with butterflies, flowers and small objects. How to photograph a portrait correctly? Canon with an open aperture - nothing is simpler. Do you need to visually distinguish a person from the rest? Again - Canon with an open aperture.

You need to close the aperture when shooting crowds, landscapes and streets, in general, wherever you need the entire picture to be in focus.

Students often ask: how to photograph with shutter speed? Canon is best suited to master this setting. First, you need to decide how you want to capture movement? After all, the longer the shutter speed, the more movement the camera will be able to capture; a short shutter speed, on the contrary, will freeze the moment.

Long shutter speeds are used when shooting a city at night, but you should use a tripod. Also, these interesting photographs are taken with long exposures:

As for the fast shutter speed: it is good when shooting falling objects.

Light sensitivity is measured in ISO units with values ​​of 100, 200, 400, and so on up to 6400. Higher values ​​are used if the shooting takes place in poor lighting, but noise (small dots) often appears in the pictures.

So, before messing around with this setting, decide:

1. Do you have enough light to take a photo at the lowest ISO setting?
2. Do you want a photo with noise or not? Black and white pictures with noise look pretty cool, but it sometimes ruins color pictures.
3. If you have a tripod or any other way to secure the camera? Light sensitivity can be compensated by making the shutter speed longer, but then you cannot do without a tripod.
4. If your subject is constantly moving, then the ISO simply needs to be raised so that the photo does not blur.

You will have to set a high ISO in the following cases:

• Sports games, dancing, indoor children's party. In general, when a short shutter speed is simply necessary.
• In areas where the use of flash is prohibited.
• That moment when the birthday person prepares to blow out the candles on the birthday cake. A flash can ruin the cozy light and the whole mood of the moment, so just increase the camera’s light sensitivity.

How to take photographs with Canon using the full power of the camera?

Daily observations show: The vast majority of SLR camera owners shoot only in Auto mode - green square. And this sad fact makes such an expensive purchase simply pointless. Suppose you paid about 27,00 thousand rubles for your Canon 600d, but in auto mode your camera only works 5400, i.e. The capabilities of an excellent DSLR camera are used by only 20%. Do you want to learn how to take photographs with Canon 600d and other models? Do you want to use your camera one hundred percent? Then remember, or better yet, write it down.

Semi-automatic modes.

In this part we will discuss working with the following modes: P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), M, A-Dep. These modes are excellent helpers for beginners who do not yet know how to take photographs with their Canon, and generally do not know what they are doing. Experienced photographers also highly respect these modes because they save them a lot of time.

1.The simplest mode is P (programmed autoexposure) mode. This mode will help you get a good exposure of the frame, select aperture and shutter speed values ​​depending on what ISO you set. This is incredibly convenient for beginner photographers who are just experimenting with light sensitivity.

You can also change the exposure pair values ​​(exposure parameters of shutter speed and aperture), for example, on a Canon 550d camera this can be done by simply scrolling the video. If you need to set a faster shutter speed, then simply scroll the video to the right, and the camera will slightly close the aperture, keeping the exposure at the same level. This will allow you to photograph any falling object, which will simply freeze in the air in the picture.

2. Mode A or Av – aperture priority.

The whole point of this mode is that it allows you to control the strength of the background blur in the photo. You need to set the ISO value and adjust the aperture yourself, but the camera will set the required shutter speed so that you end up with a good shot. Here you need to decide whether you want a blurred background, then set the appropriate aperture value, and the rest is up to the camera. Convenient, right?

When shooting a portrait on Canon, set the ISO and open the aperture completely (the smallest number) to get a blurred background, and the camera will set the shutter speed itself.

3. Mode S or Tv – shutter priority.

It works exactly the same as the previous modes: you set the ISO, and the aperture value remains up to the camera.

In order to practice using this mode, find any moving object (person, cat, car, fountain): set a short shutter speed - this way you will get a clear photograph of the object “stopped” in the frame. Now set the shutter speed longer, place the camera on any stable surface and gently press the button. Most likely, you will get a beautiful “smear” that reflects the beauty of the dynamics of movement.

4.And the last mode is A-DEP (depth of field priority). By the way, it is not available on all cameras. This mode allows the camera to set the aperture and shutter speed so that all objects in focus are sufficiently sharp.

It’s worth adding that once you mess around with manual settings or semi-automatic modes at least a little, you’ll never go back to the “green square”.

If, after reading this article, you still have questions about what to do with your camera and how to photoengrave on Canon, then our teachers will be glad to see you in their courses.

Greetings, dear reader! I’m in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. So, you have purchased your own photographic equipment. But what to do with it next? Of course, you need to set it up first! The instructions, as well as this article, will greatly help you with this. The article will answer in detail the question: how to set up a SLR camera.

Preparing and using the camera

I have no doubt that you can't wait to start filming! Wait, first prepare the equipment for work. The interface and features of the camera from top manufacturers may differ. For example, Canon from Nikon.

Important! Read your camera manual very carefully.

But at their core, they have similar functions and are configured in a similar way, so my advice is universal, no matter what camera you use. I present the steps of the setup process to help you. Here's what to check:

1. Battery
2. Memory card
3. Image format and quality
4. Vibrations
5. Focusing
6. Metering area
7. Shooting modes and options
8. Picture Control or Picture Style function

Battery

Your camera must have a charger; most likely, it is already included with your camera. These are not batteries, but an accumulator. Before you start taking photos, you need to charge it thoroughly.

In this case, usually a brand new battery will have to be fully charged and discharged more than once for normal operation. Pay close attention to the recommendations for its use in the instructions for the camera.

It so happens that if the battery is constantly recharged without completely consuming energy, it may gradually begin to work worse, that is, it will last for less time.

Proper charging will help avoid this. It would also be a good idea to purchase an additional battery if you plan to shoot a lot without the possibility of recharging.

Flash drive

A flash drive or memory card is not sold together with the camera; it is bought separately, but you absolutely cannot do without it. This is where your photos will be stored. A lot depends on it: both the shooting speed and the speed of access to files. Therefore, you shouldn’t skimp on it, take a high-end one - no lower than 10.

Before you rush to try out the equipment, make sure the flash drive is in place. Format it in advance by going to the camera menu.

Formatting will increase the available space for recording photos and also ensure optimal functioning. Do this procedure periodically: shoot a series of frames, fill out the card, then transfer the data to the computer and clean the flash drive.

Important! In the settings of your camera, set the settings so that if there is no memory card, the camera will not take photographs. In Nikon, this feature is called Shutter Release Lock without Memory Card.

Image format and quality

Any camera has the ability to save pictures of different sizes and formats, which determines their weight. As a rule, these are JPEG, small, medium and large, but there are semi- and professional models where you can shoot in RAW - the highest quality, or as it is also called digital negative.

There is also the TIFF format, but it is mainly present on semi-professional and professional cameras.

Beginners most often start with average quality. Once you master Lightroom or Photoshop, image editors, you will understand the benefits of RAW. Despite the fact that this format takes up a lot of space on the card, it will contain all the information on any frame, and in such a photo you can subsequently modify almost all elements, within reason.

Vibrations

Did you know that our actual sustainability in place leaves much to be desired? If you didn’t know, you’ll soon find out – as soon as you start taking photographs. Often or even constantly, you should turn on the additional noise reduction (stabilization) setting in your camera, which will rid the frame of vibrations. Vibrations naturally come from external conditions (wind, for example), from shaking hands, awkward movements and can make the image unclear and blurry.

You also need to enable the button that reduces vibration on the lens itself, if present (VR - on Nikon, IS - on Canon). If you don’t have such a button, don’t worry, not all lenses have it.

Focus

In order for the optics to correctly recognize what exactly needs to be focused on and which object to make clear, it is necessary to vary the focus. In most cases, you won't need manual mode, so switch the focus button to auto. You can switch both on the lens itself and in the camera settings.

Also, in the menu itself, you can also select the focusing mode: single-point or multi-point.

I always shoot with the first option, since in the second the camera itself determines the points on which to focus. I don't know about you, but I prefer to manage this process myself. Moreover, in the space of the frame, the focusing area can be shifted in any direction, depending on the location of the main subject (with single-point focusing).

Metering area

Of the three common exposure metering options, I most often use matrix (multi-area) and center. Matrix does an excellent job in many shooting situations: it measures lighting conditions in several areas of the frame at once, which determines the exact exposure. Central is more suitable when you need to evaluate the exposure in the central part of the photographed space.

More details about exposure metering modes are described in the article -

Modes, shooting options

The important task is to choose the parameters. After all, they determine the entire picture! Of course, a lot depends on the composition and atmosphere, but the exposure and its components “create” the photo; they can either improve it or completely destroy it. I won’t write much about this, since you will find comprehensive information about it in my articles. I’ll just say that you need to be able to exhibit:

A very effective way to make an image more expressive and adapt to shooting conditions. In addition, less time will then be spent on post-processing.

It will be very useful for you to watch the video course, which will guide you on the right path and answer many of your questions about photography in more detail. It is called " Digital SLR for a beginner 2.0"and is well-chosen material, especially useful for a beginner.

It will also be useful to familiarize yourself with the video course dedicated to the powerful assistant of almost every photographer, Lightroom “ Lightroom wizard. Secrets of high-speed photo processing" This course will teach you how to work with photography correctly and make minor adjustments to photographs. With this program, you will understand why many photographers use the RAW format.

I hope the article was useful and understandable. More practice - and everything will work out! See you again on my blog! Share with friends and subscribe to blog updates.

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

A happy day has come and you have purchased a SLR camera. There is a lot of inspiration and plans, but only the power button is familiar. In fact, the camera is quite trainable and anyone can handle it. If you plan to shoot a little more than your friends for avatars, then all roads for learning are open to you. The article will help you understand the terminology and set off on a creative voyage.

First steps

DSLR Photography Basics

Let's start with some simple explanations about capturing your new camera. The right hand should lie on the handle, and the left one below, as if supporting the lens. The position of your hand on the lens allows you to quickly change the zoom if you are using a lens with a variable focal length. The index finger of the right hand rests on the shutter button.

How to set up a DSLR camera

For simplicity, we will use the “3 pillars” theory. Only we will put on them not the planet Earth, but a photograph. For a good shot, you need to be able to use each of the “whales”. Let me introduce! Keith number one is the diaphragm. Whale number two - endurance. Whale number three is ISO. And now, in order of priority, about each one.

Diaphragm

Know that photography is drawing with light. And this light penetrates the camera matrix through a hole called the aperture (F). You can adjust its size. Possible options from F-1.2 to F-22 (sometimes higher). The following rule works: the smaller the F number, the larger the hole. It is clear that with a value of F- 2.8, the hole will be larger than with F- 8, which means there will also be more light. As a practical method, it is necessary to set the desired aperture value for a high-quality frame without overexposure. You need to set the aperture so that the right amount of light enters the camera.

Excerpt

Another tool for controlling light. Shutter speed (t) is the time the aperture is open. It's simple. The longer the hole is open, the more light enters the matrix. Consequently, the lighter the frame turned out.

ISO

These three letters indicate the light sensitivity of your camera's sensor. Photosensitivity is the ability of a matrix to change its parameters under the influence of light. The ISO value can range from 100 to 6400. If you set the ISO to 400, then in this case the matrix will receive less light than in an equal period of time, but at a value of 1600. It would seem that there is no reason to rack your brains - set the ISO higher, and shoot for yourself to your health. Ah, if only everything were so simple... But if you turn up the photosensitivity level too much, noise (grain) will appear in the photo, and if this gave a certain charm to a film photo, then to a digital photo there is nothing particularly aesthetic here . On modern cameras you can set ISO automatically. At first, you can use this option, but as you gain experience, try to set the light sensitivity level yourself, relying on your own knowledge and intuition.

Tip: The main thing is to practice a lot by changing these three camera parameters. Then you will understand what and when to switch.

Shooting modes

If you want to get high-quality photos, forget about modes like “Portrait”, “Landscape”, “Flower” and so on. The camera has 4 main modes, and we’ll talk about them in more detail. Note: camera manufacturers use different designations. The instructions will help you determine which letter indicates a specific mode. This is a very useful book that was sold to you complete with the equipment. We advise you to read it. You will find a lot of useful information.

A (Av) Aperture priority mode

Under such conditions, a person sets the aperture value, and the camera independently selects the shutter speed value.

Aperture is one of the main parameters in the settings and is designated in the camera by the letter F. This shooting mode is suitable for portraits. You open the aperture as much as possible and get beautiful bokeh (Bokeh is an artistic blur of the background).

S (Tv) Shutter priority mode

In this case, the photographer sets the shutter speed, and the camera itself chooses the aperture value. We remember that shutter speed is the time for which the aperture opens to allow light to pass through. Time is measured in fractions (for example, 1/1000 - 0.001 seconds, 1/100 - 0.01 seconds, 1/10 - 0.1 seconds, and so on). If you want to “freeze” an object in motion, you should set a short shutter speed; if, according to an artistic idea, it is necessary to blur an object, for example, water, then increase the time and the moving object will blur.

M Manual mode

This is the mode of independence. You choose your aperture and shutter speed settings. Professional photographers shoot only in manual mode, since the camera is not able to fully understand your idea and implement it. But if you have just started your creative journey, practice in modes A and S. Once you gain experience, switch to manual.

And a few more important points that will be useful to you.

Focusing

In photography, its quality is important. One indicator is proper focusing. Focus is the sharpest place in the frame. When you look through the viewfinder, you see the focus points. Depending on the camera model, their number may vary. When you lightly press the shutter button, one (or several, depending on the settings) dot will light up in red. This means that it is in this place in the frame that the focus will work.

It is possible to focus on several points at once, but we recommend choosing one. We tell you in secret that the central focal point has the best quality. Always work with her. But what if the subject is on the side, for example? There is an exit. Focus on the center point and, without releasing the shutter button, build the desired composition. That is, even if you move the focus but do not release the button, the place where you initially focused will remain sharp.

The lens can focus in automatic and manual mode. It is clear that it is easier to work with automation. If the shooting requires taking photos quickly, then there is no time to focus. This happens, for example, in reporting work. When 5 frames are taken per second. But for experimentation and to get a good feel for your workhorse, it is better to be friends with manual focusing. By the way, some cameras only have it. But this is rather an exception.

File type

A photographer can work with two types of files: JPEG and RAW.

JPEG is a compressed file type. Such a photo will be ready for printing directly from the camera and its weight is much less, unlike RAW.

RAW (raw) is a file type that necessarily requires post-processing in special programs. It contains more information about the photo, so it weighs a lot more.

If you've just picked up a DSLR camera, it's best to start working with JPEG. Once you have practiced photography, switch to RAW. All professional photographers shoot only in this format, as it allows you to make more corrections without losing image quality.

White balance

This is one of the parameters of the color image temperature transfer method, which determines the consistency of the color gamut of the image. The human eye automatically adjusts the white balance, so we perceive the color of an object correctly in any lighting. It doesn't work that way with a camera. He needs a hint as to what type of light you are currently working with. It could be the sun or an incandescent lamp. Then the camera won't lie about the colors.

In the bad case, you will simply end up with a very yellow or very blue photo, which is not a true representation of reality. At the beginning of your journey as a photographer, you can set this parameter to “auto” mode, but it doesn’t always work out right. Therefore, we do not recommend using it all the time; a camera is just a device that can make mistakes and thereby spoil your picture.

Having a DSLR camera opens up a lot of new possibilities for creating high-quality photographs. Become professionals and don't shoot in automatic modes. This is convenient, but then don’t be surprised why the result doesn’t make you happy at all. Why didn't it work out the way you wanted? Once you understand all the settings and learn to operate them with your eyes closed, things will go well.

Next you can think about the artistic side of photography. But it shouldn't take you long to find a mode switch or increase the aperture. You risk missing an important point. We hope our answers to the question “How to use a DSLR” will be useful to you.

The settings capabilities of digital cameras are great; modern technology allows you to change various characteristics within a wide range. Only these capabilities differ for different models, and each user decides for himself how to configure the camera. But the principle of adjustment remains the same. The better the camera, the more opportunities for manual adjustments, which allows you to change the artistic parameters of the photograph within a wide range. If you have switched from “auto” mode to any other, then this is where knowledge and experience in setting up a digital camera will help you.

You can take good photographs when you can quickly and correctly use the created environment for shooting. And the situation is the lighting, the distance to the object, its mobility, size, etc. To get good photographs, it is better to know at least a little theory, the capabilities of your camera, and practice is necessary.

Mandatory adjustable values ​​are:

• exposition,
• white balance,
• focusing.

These characteristics are adjusted before each new shoot, and without them you won’t get a high-quality photograph.

FOCUSING

Focusing in modern cameras works well in automatic mode, you just need to know how to select the autofocus mode. Autofocus is a system that ensures automatic focusing of the camera lens on one or more shooting objects. Autofocus consists of a sensor, a control system and a drive that moves the lens frame or its individual lenses. The camera tends to focus on what is closest to the center of the frame. So if your subject is not quite centered and there are other objects between it and the camera, then keep an eye on what your camera is focusing on.

WHITE BALANCE

White balance is needed to correctly display color in a photograph. Basic ways to set white balance:

1. Shooting in Raw format allows you to set the white balance after shooting on the computer.
2. In many digital cameras, the photographer can manually set the type of lighting for the frame in the menu - sun, daylight, blue (shadow) and cloudy skies, fluorescent lamp, incandescent lamp with tungsten filament, flash, etc. and the camera makes corrections for the corresponding color temperature .
3. Another manual mode is gray card color correction.
4. Some cameras allow you to specify the light source directly in Kelvin.
5. Automatic white balance.

But setting the exposure in the camera sometimes causes great difficulties, because you have to change several parameters at the same time. Let's look at the selection of exposure in the camera in more detail.

Exposure settings

Exposure determines the amount of light needed to form a photo with the correct brightness of the subject.

The main technical characteristics of the camera that you need to be able to adjust for correct exposure are:

• excerpt,
• diaphragm,
• sensitivity.

In the camera, light passes through the lens to the matrix, and in the lens the size of the hole through which this light passes is adjusted. This hole in the lens is the aperture. The time it takes for light to pass through the sensor to form a photograph is called shutter speed. And the ability of a camera matrix to respond to a certain amount of light is called photosensitivity.

These three quantities are interrelated, as they determine the quality of photography based on light characteristics.

But each individual of these parameters (shutter speed, aperture, sensitivity) affects some individual artistic characteristics of the images. So you have to combine them to properly configure the camera.

Quite briefly, their interaction can be explained this way. To obtain a picture with normal illumination (normal exposure) the matrix must receive a certain amount of light flux to form it.

By changing the light sensitivity of the matrix (ISO), we change its characteristics, and accordingly change the amount of light that is used so that the matrix forms a picture of normal brightness. The lower the ISO, the more light is needed, and the higher the ISO, the less light is needed to form a photograph.

And the amount of light entering the matrix can be adjusted using the aperture (the hole in the lens through which light passes). And with the help of shutter speed (the time during which the light passes to the matrix).

You need to know that the aperture additionally affects the depth of field and, in another way, the sharpness of out-of-focus objects. Shutter speed affects shooting of moving objects. By changing the shutter speed, you can make a moving object sharp or blurry.

By setting these two parameters correctly, you get exposure pair (aperture/shutter speed value). To obtain normal exposure (normal photo brightness), you can adjust the sensitivity (ISO) of the matrix to these exposure pair values. A higher ISO means that the camera electronics include more signal amplification. At the same time, noise also increases, which is especially visible in the form of fine grain in the dark areas of the image, so they try to shoot at the lowest possible ISO value (no more than 100-400).

In modern SLR cameras, they have made it so that you can only change the aperture, shutter speed and sensitivity in steps, and these values ​​are already built into the camera. But the numbers are chosen in such a way that changing one of them by one step changes the exposure by half. So, having increased one of the parameters by one step, you need to reduce the other parameter by one step in order to maintain the exposure. In modern cameras, for greater freedom in adjustments, intermediate values ​​are also introduced, so you have to carefully monitor this.

Manual modes for adjusting exposure

Depending on the shooting conditions and what you will be photographing (a static scene or a dynamic one), the values ​​that will have to be adjusted manually are determined. Depending on this, we select the mode on the camera.

MANUAL MODE M

At manual mode (M) you can adjust all three parameters (shutter speed, aperture, ISO) at the same time.

APERTURE PRIORITY A

When mode Aperture priority (A) you set the aperture value, for example, portrait photography, you can also set ISO. And the camera itself will select the shutter speed for the correct exposure.

SHUTTER PRIORITY S

Mode S is selected when you need to adjust the shutter speed. In this case, the camera itself adjusts the aperture. For example, filming sports competitions. You just set the ISO and adjust the shutter speed.

In all modes, you can additionally use exposure compensation if it seems to you that the camera is choosing the exposure incorrectly. Exposure compensation - making adjustments to the measured exposure to correct errors or to obtain artistic effects.

Mode P is called program mode. It is introduced in the camera to make it easier to adjust the characteristics for shooting. In this mode, you cannot adjust the shutter speed and aperture manually; this adjustment will be made by the camera’s automation. But you can adjust photosensitivity, white balance, and do exposure metering.

For example, the camera itself always sets the minimum possible ISO sensitivity by default. But there are times when to get a clear and bright photo you need to raise the ISO value, this is where the manual adjustment option comes in handy.

The camera may not correctly select the brightness of the subject when shooting high-contrast scenes (in the sun, in the snow, etc.). To eliminate automatic errors, it is better to use exposure compensation yourself, using the results of exposure metering.

You will need to set white balance yourself to eliminate errors in color selection in a photograph.

All other shooting modes do not give the user freedom of choice in adjusting the camera's characteristics; automation works there. But sometimes such modes are more suitable and help the photographer out. For example, there is no time to prepare the camera manually, or the photographer is not yet experienced enough in camera settings, and automation works better for now.

Setting the exposure pair using the exposure meter

The camera can automatically control exposure without human intervention. The camera uses a built-in exposure meter to measure the exposure of the scene and then these measured values ​​are used to automatically select one or two exposure parameters.

In automatic mode, the user can manually set one of the parameters, or the automation itself can set both shutter speed and aperture.

Having set the value of one of the exposure parameters (shutter speed or aperture) in any of the modes for the desired characteristics of the photograph, we find the second parameter by searching through the values ​​until the value on the exposure meter (displayed on the camera screen or viewfinder) is set to zero.

The exposure meter can also be displayed on the screen in the form of a scale, then you can select the values ​​so that the pointer is in the middle of the scale, which will correspond to the normal brightness of the photo. In some cameras, the exposure meter displays a number on the screen that shows how much more to change the exposure, and in which direction (+ or -).

The camera itself measures the exposure - evaluates the brightness in different parts of the image. Since scenes can have very different contrasts, there are several methods for determining exposure. With manual control, the primary mode is center-weighted metering, and with automatic modes, the primary mode is evaluative exposure metering.

When automatically determining exposure, the automation measures the brightness of objects in the frame, then it averages these values ​​and adjusts the desired characteristics. This brightness metering may not be correct in some scenes. For example, if there is a lot of bright snow in the frame, the camera, based on the average data, decides that all objects are very bright and lowers the exposure. Then the desired object may turn out very dark. Now you need to intervene in the operation of the automation and make exposure compensation.

Brief procedure for setting up the camera

The procedure for working with the camera in manual mode can be as follows:

1. Before shooting, set the lowest ISO.
2. Then, if you shoot moving objects, then set the shutter speed and adjust the aperture until you get the desired exposure. Check the correct aperture adjustment using the exposure meter on the camera screen.
3. At shooting static objects set the aperture to achieve the desired effects (sharpness of the object or background). Then use the exposure meter to select the shutter speed.
4. If The exposure meter indicates that it is impossible to select an exposure pair, then increase the ISO and set up the camera again.

With all adjustments, it is advisable to take test shots to make sure that there are no errors in the camera settings or that the automation is working correctly.

Camera adjustment simulator based on basic parameters:

Here you can select manual adjustment mode or aperture priority or shutter priority. In each mode, you can change the shutter speed, aperture and sensitivity and, after taking a virtual test shot, see the result.

In the background you will see blur or sharpness of objects, depending on the aperture value. You can see the effect of shutter speed on the photo from the girl's rotating toy. Use the exposure meter in the form of a scale to control the correct exposure selection. You can also change the external shooting conditions on this simulator by adjusting the lighting and distance to the object. It is possible to adjust the focus and check the effect of working with a tripod.

In general, try all the modes, adjust a variety of digital camera parameters and see the result in a virtual photo.

Conclusion

Camera settings include almost all menu items that you see on the camera display. All these points can be divided into general ones, which are carried out once and concern the entire camera. And there are those that need to be opened with each shot and configured separately.

Common camera menu items include date and time, auto power off, sound signals, menu and display design, etc.

Additional functions: GPS, Wi-Fi, connection to a computer, etc.

Functions for viewing photos on the camera: cropping, rotation, protection against deletion, slide show, working with a memory card.

Shooting parameters: frame resolution, video quality (if there is video recording), manual or automatic shooting, use of preset scenes.

Special camera settings: setting the flash, adjusting the shutter, exposure compensation, setting white balance, setting ISO, continuous or one-shot shooting.

This article is intended primarily for those who first came to the site with the desire to learn how to take photographs. It will act as a kind of guide to the rest of the site’s materials, which you should pay attention to if you suddenly decide to “upgrade” your photography skills.

Before listing the sequence of your actions, I will say that photography consists of two large areas - technical and creative.

The creative part comes from your imagination and vision of the plot.

The technical part is a sequence of pressing buttons, selecting a mode, setting shooting parameters in order to realize a creative idea. Creative and technical photography cannot exist without each other, they complement each other. The proportion may be different and depends only on your decision - with what camera will you take photographs (DSLR or smartphone), in what mode (auto or), in what format (), will you use it later or leave it as is?

Learning to photograph means learning to determine which work you will do yourself and which you will entrust to technology. A real photographer is not the one who shoots only in manual mode, but the one who knows and knows how to direct the technical capabilities of the camera in the right direction and get the result that he planned to get.

Understanding the word "Photography"

This is the “zero” level, without mastering which there is no point in moving forward. Photography is “painting with light.” The same object in different lighting will look completely different. Light is relevant in any genre of photography. If you manage to catch interesting light, you will take a beautiful shot. And it doesn’t matter what you have in your hands - an amateur compact device or a professional DSLR.

Selection of equipment

There is no need to purchase expensive equipment to learn photography. Nowadays, amateur technology has developed so much that it satisfies the requirements of not only amateurs, but also advanced photographers. There is also no point in trying to buy the most modern camera model, since everything you need for high-quality photography in cameras appeared 10 years ago. Most of the innovations in modern models are only indirectly related to photography. For example, a huge number of focus sensors, Wi-Fi control, a GPS sensor, an ultra-high-resolution touch screen - all this only improves usability without affecting the quality of the result.

I don’t encourage you to buy “old stuff,” but I recommend taking a more sober approach to the choice between a new product and a previous generation camera. Prices for new products can be unreasonably high, while the number of truly useful innovations may not be so great.

Introducing Basic Camera Features

It is advisable to be patient and study the instructions for the camera. Unfortunately, it is not always written simply and clearly, however, this does not eliminate the need to study the location and purpose of the main controls. As a rule, there are not so many controls - a mode dial, one or two wheels for setting parameters, several function buttons, zoom controls, an autofocus and shutter button. It is also worth studying the main menu items in order to be able to configure such things as, image style. All this comes with experience, but over time there should not be a single incomprehensible item in the camera menu for you.

Getting to know the exhibition

The time has come to pick up the camera and try to depict something with it. First, turn on auto mode and try to take photographs in it. In most cases, the result will be quite normal, but sometimes the photos for some reason turn out to be too light or, conversely, too dark. It's time to get acquainted with such a thing as. Exposure is the total light flux that the matrix captured during the shutter operation. The higher the exposure level, the brighter the photo turns out. Photos that are too light are called overexposed, and photos that are too dark are called underexposed. You can adjust the exposure level manually, but this cannot be done in auto mode. To be able to "brighten up or down" you need to go into P (programmed exposure) mode.

Programmed Exposure Mode

This is the simplest “creative” mode, which combines the simplicity of the auto mode and at the same time allows you to introduce corrections into the operation of the machine - to make photos forcibly lighter or darker. This is done using exposure compensation. Exposure compensation is usually used when the scene is dominated by either light or dark objects. The automation works in such a way that it tries to bring the average exposure level of the image to 18% gray tone (the so-called “gray card”). Please note that when we take more of the bright sky into the frame, the ground appears darker in the photo. And vice versa, we take more land into the frame - the sky brightens, sometimes even turns white. Exposure compensation helps compensate for shadows and highlights moving beyond the boundaries of absolute black and absolute white.

What is endurance?

No matter how good and convenient it is, it, alas, does not always allow you to get high-quality photographs. A striking example is shooting moving objects. Try going outside to photograph cars passing by. On a bright sunny day this will most likely work, but as soon as the sun goes behind a cloud, the cars will turn out slightly smeared. Moreover, the less light, the stronger this blur will be. Why does this happen?

The photo is exposed when the shutter opens. If fast moving objects get into the frame, then during the time the shutter is opened they have time to move and appear slightly blurry in the photo. The time for which the shutter opens is called endurance.

Shutter speed allows you to get the effect of “frozen motion” (example below), or, conversely, blur moving objects.

Shutter speed is displayed as a unit divided by a number, for example, 1/500 - this means that the shutter will open for 1/500 of a second. This is a fast enough shutter speed at which driving cars and walking pedestrians will be clear in the photo. The shorter the shutter speed, the more rapid movement can be frozen.

If you increase the shutter speed to, say, 1/125 of a second, pedestrians will still remain clear, but cars will be noticeably blurred. If the shutter speed is 1/50 or longer, the risk of getting blurry photos increases due to the photographer's hand shaking and it is recommended to use the camera on a tripod , or use an image stabilizer (if available).

Night photographs are taken with very long exposures of several seconds and even minutes. Here it is no longer possible to do without a tripod.

To be able to lock the shutter speed, the camera has a shutter priority mode. It is designated TV or S. In addition to a fixed shutter speed, it allows you to use exposure compensation. Shutter speed has a direct effect on the exposure level - the longer the shutter speed, the brighter the photo turns out.

What is a diaphragm?

Another mode that can be useful is aperture priority mode.

Diaphragm- this is the “pupil” of the lens, a hole of variable diameter. The narrower this diaphragm hole, the larger DOF- depth of sharply imaged space. Aperture is designated by a dimensionless number from the series 1.4, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22, etc. In modern cameras you can select intermediate values, for example, 3.5, 7.1, 13, etc.

The larger the aperture number, the greater the depth of field. A large depth of field is relevant when you need everything to be sharp - both the foreground and the background. Landscapes are usually shot with an aperture of 8 or larger.

A typical example of a photograph with a large depth of field is the zone of sharpness from the grass under your feet to infinity.

The point of a small depth of field is to focus the viewer's attention on the subject and blur all background objects. This technique is commonly used in . To blur the background in a portrait, open the aperture to 2.8, 2, sometimes even to 1.4 - the main thing is to know the measure, otherwise we risk blurring part of the face.

Shallow DOF is a great way to shift the viewer's attention from the colorful background to the main subject.

To control aperture, you need to switch the control dial to aperture priority mode (AV or A). In this case, you tell the device what aperture you want to take pictures with, and it selects all the other parameters itself. Exposure compensation is also available in aperture priority mode.

The aperture has the opposite effect on the exposure level - the larger the aperture number, the darker the picture turns out (a pinched pupil lets in less light than an open one).

What is ISO sensitivity?

You've probably noticed that photos sometimes have ripples, grain, or, as it's also called, digital noise. The noise is especially pronounced in photographs taken in poor lighting. The presence/absence of ripples in photographs is determined by the following parameter: ISO sensitivity. This is the degree of sensitivity of the matrix to light. It is designated by dimensionless units - 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, etc.

When shooting at minimum sensitivity (for example, ISO 100), the image quality is the best, but you have to shoot with a longer shutter speed. In good lighting, for example, outside during the day, this is not a problem. But if we go into a room in which there is much less light, then it will no longer be possible to shoot at the minimum sensitivity - the shutter speed will be, for example, 1/5 of a second and the risk is very high " wiggles", so called because of the trembling of the hands.

Here's an example photo taken at low ISO with a long shutter speed on a tripod:

Please note that the disturbance on the river was blurred in motion and it seemed that there was no ice on the river. But there is practically no noise in the photo.

To avoid shake in low light, you need to either increase the ISO sensitivity to reduce the shutter speed to at least 1/50 of a second, or continue shooting at minimum ISO and use . When shooting on a tripod with a long shutter speed, moving objects are very blurred. This is especially noticeable when shooting at night. ISO sensitivity has a direct impact on exposure levels. The higher the ISO number, the brighter the photo will be at a fixed shutter speed and aperture.

Below is an example shot taken at ISO6400 late in the evening outdoors without a tripod:

Even in web size it is noticeable that the photo is quite noisy. On the other hand, grain effect is often used as an artistic technique, giving a photo a "film" look.

The relationship between shutter speed, aperture and ISO

So, as you probably already guessed, the exposure level is influenced by three parameters - shutter speed, aperture and ISO sensitivity. There is such a thing as “exposure step” or EV (Exposure Value). Each next step corresponds to an exposure 2 times greater than the previous one. These three parameters are interconnected.

• if we open the aperture by 1 step, the shutter speed is reduced by 1 step
• if we open the aperture by 1 step, the sensitivity decreases by one step
• if we reduce the shutter speed by 1 step, the ISO sensitivity increases by one step

Manual mode

In manual mode, the photographer has the ability to control. This is necessary when we need to firmly fix the exposure level and prevent the camera from acting on its own. For example, darken or brighten the foreground when there is more or less sky in the frame, respectively.

Convenient when shooting in the same conditions, for example, when walking around the city in sunny weather. I adjusted it once and had the same exposure level in all photos. The inconveniences in manual mode begin when you have to move between light and dark locations. If we go, for example, into a cafe from the street and shoot there on “street” settings, the photos will turn out too dark, since there is less light in the cafe.

Manual mode is indispensable when shooting panoramas and all thanks to the same property - maintaining a constant exposure level. When using autoexposure, the exposure level will greatly depend on the amount of light and dark objects. If we caught a large dark object in the frame, we got the sky illuminated. And vice versa, if light objects predominate in the frame, the shadows fade into blackness. Gluing up such a panorama is a pain in the ass! So, to avoid this mistake, shoot panoramas in M ​​mode, setting the exposure in advance in such a way that all fragments will be correctly exposed.

The result is that when gluing there will be no “steps” in brightness between frames, which are likely to appear when shooting in any other mode.

Zoom and focal length

This is a characteristic that determines the angle of the lens's field of view. The shorter the focal length, the wider the angle the lens covers; the longer the focal length, the more similar in its effect it is to a spyglass.

Often the concept of “focal length” in everyday life is replaced by “zoom”. This is incorrect, since zoom is just a factor that changes the focal length. If the maximum focal length is divided by the minimum, we get the zoom factor.

Focal length is measured in millimeters. Nowadays, the term “equivalent focal length” is widely used; it is used for cameras with a crop factor, of which the majority are. Its purpose is to estimate the coverage angle of a specific lens/matrix combination and bring them to a full-frame equivalent. The formula is simple:

EFR = FR * Kf

FR is the actual focal length, CF (crop factor) is a coefficient showing how many times the matrix of this device is smaller than a full-frame one (36*24 mm).

Thus, the equivalent focal length of an 18-55 mm lens on a 1.5 crop would be 27-82 mm. Below is a sample list of focal length settings. I'll be writing in full frame equivalent. If you have a crop factor camera, simply divide these numbers by the crop factor to get the actual focal length you need to set on your lens.

• 24 mm or less- “wide angle”. The coverage angle allows you to capture a fairly large sector of space in the frame. This allows you to convey the depth of the frame and the distribution of plans well. 24mm is characterized by a pronounced perspective effect, which tends to distort the proportions of objects at the edges of the frame. Often it looks impressive.

It is better not to photograph group portraits at 24 mm, as people on the extreme end may end up with heads that are slightly elongated diagonally. Focal lengths of 24mm and shorter are good for landscapes with sky and water predominates.

• 35 mm- “short focus”. Also good for landscapes, as well as shooting people against the background of a landscape. The coverage angle is quite wide, but the perspective is less pronounced. At 35 mm you can shoot full-length portraits and portraits in a setting.

• 50 mm- “normal lens”. The focal length is mainly for taking pictures of people not very close-up. Single, group portrait, “street photography”. The perspective roughly corresponds to what we are used to seeing with our own eyes. You can photograph a landscape, but not every landscape - the angle of the field of view is no longer so large and does not allow you to convey depth and space.

• 85-100 mm- “portrait painter”. The 85-100mm lens is well suited for shooting waist-length and larger portraits with a predominantly vertical frame layout. The most interesting pictures can be obtained with fast lenses with a fixed focal length, for example, 85mm F:1.8. When shooting at an open aperture, the eighty-five lens blurs the background very well, thereby emphasizing the main subject. For other genres, an 85 mm lens, even if it is suitable, is a stretch. It is almost impossible to shoot landscapes with it; indoors, most of the interior is outside its field of vision.

• 135 mm- “close-up portraiture”. A focal length for close-up portraits in which the face takes up most of the frame. The so-called close-up portrait.

• 200 mm or more- “telephoto lens”. Allows you to take close-up shots of distant objects. A woodpecker on a tree trunk, a roe deer at a watering hole, a football player with a ball in the middle of the field. Not bad for taking close-up shots of small objects - for example, a flower in a flower bed. The perspective effect is practically absent. It is better not to use such lenses for portraits, as faces appear visually wider and flatter. Below is an example of a photograph taken at a focal length of 600 mm - there is virtually no perspective. Near and far objects on the same scale:

The focal (real!) distance, in addition to the scale of the image, affects the depth of field of the imaged space (together with the aperture). The longer the focal length, the smaller the depth of field, and accordingly, the background blur is stronger. This is another reason not to use a wide-angle lens for portraits if you want background blur. Here lies the answer and the question - why “” and smartphones do not blur the background in portraits well. Their actual focal length is several times shorter than that of SLR and system cameras (mirrorless).

Composition in photography

Now that we have generally understood the technical part, it's time to talk about such a thing as composition. In short, composition in photography is the relative arrangement and interaction of objects and light sources in the frame, thanks to which the photographic work looks harmonious and complete. There are quite a lot of rules, I will list the main ones, those that need to be learned first.

Light is your most important visual medium. Depending on the angle at which the light hits an object, it can look completely different. Black and white drawing is practically the only way to convey volume in a photograph. Frontal light (flash, the sun behind) hides the volume, objects look flat. If the light source is shifted slightly to the side, this is better; a play of light and shadow appears. Counter (back) light makes pictures contrasting and dramatic, but you must first learn how to work with such light.

Don't try to fit everything into the frame at the same time, photograph only the essence. When photographing something in the foreground, keep an eye on the background - there are often unwanted objects in it. Poles, traffic lights, trash cans, and the like - all these unnecessary objects clog up the composition and distract attention, they are called “photo trash”.

Do not place the main subject in the center of the frame, move it slightly to the side. Leave more space in the frame in the direction where the main subject is “looking”. If possible, try different options and choose the best one.

“Zoom in” and “come closer” are not the same thing. Zoom increases the focal length of the lens, as a result of which the background is stretched and blurred - this is good for a portrait (within reasonable limits).

We take the portrait from the model’s eye level from a distance of at least 2 meters. Lack of scale by increasing the focal length (zoom zoom). If we photograph children, we don’t need to do it from our own height; we’ll get a portrait against the background of the floor, asphalt, or grass. Sit down!

Try not to take a portrait from a frontal angle (like a passport). Turning the model's face towards the main light source is always beneficial. You can try other angles. The main thing is light!

Make the most of natural light - it's more artistic and lively than flash lighting. Remember that a window is an excellent source of soft diffused lighting, almost a softbox. Using curtains and tulle, you can change the intensity of light and its softness. The closer the model is to the window, the more contrasting the lighting.

When shooting “in a crowd”, a high shooting point, when the camera is held on arms outstretched, is almost always advantageous. Some photographers even use a stepladder.

Try not to let the horizon line cut the frame into two equal halves. If there is more interest in the foreground, place the horizon at a level of approximately 2/3 from the bottom edge (ground - 2/3, sky - 1/3), if in the background - accordingly, at a level of 1/3 (ground - 1/3, sky - 2/3). This is also called the “rule of thirds.” If you can’t attach key objects to the “thirds”, place them symmetrically to each other relative to the center:

To process or not to process?

For many, this is a sore point - whether a photograph processed in Photoshop is considered “live” and “real”. In this opinion, people are divided into two camps - some are categorically against processing, others - for the fact that there is nothing wrong with processing photographs. My personal opinion about processing is this:

• Any photographer should have at least basic photo processing skills - correct the horizon, frame, cover up a speck of dust on the matrix, adjust the exposure level, white balance.
• Learn to take photographs in such a way that you don’t need to edit them later. This saves a lot of time!
• If the picture initially turned out well, think a hundred times before “improving” it somehow programmatically.
• Converting a photo to black and white, toning, graining, and using filters does not automatically make it artistic, but there is a chance of it slipping into bad taste.
• When processing a photo, you must know what you want to get. There is no need to do processing for the sake of processing.
• Explore the capabilities of the programs you use. There are probably functions that you don’t know about that will allow you to achieve results faster and better.
• Don't get carried away with color correction without a high-quality calibrated monitor. Just because an image looks good on your laptop screen doesn't mean it will look good on other screens or when printed.
• The edited photograph must be left to rest. Before you publish it and send it to print, leave it for a couple of days, and then look at it with fresh eyes - it is quite possible that you will want to change a lot.

Conclusion

I hope you understand that you won’t be able to learn photography by reading one article. Yes, I, in fact, did not set such a goal - to “lay out” everything that I know in it. The purpose of the article is to briefly talk about the simple truths of photography, without going into subtleties and details, but simply to lift the veil. I tried to write in a concise and accessible language, but even so, the article turned out to be quite lengthy - and this is just the tip of the iceberg!

If you are interested in a deeper study of the topic, I can offer paid materials on photography. They are presented as e-books in PDF format. You can view their list and trial versions here -.