How to take photographs correctly with a canon 600d SLR camera. How to use any Nikon DSLR camera

The vast majority of photographs are taken in automatic white balance mode. This is a simple choice that makes sense in most cases. But it is not 100% reliable.

In general, white balance systems tend to correct natural color deviations into the highlights, so that images appear too bland. For example, warm sunlight early morning or evening may become too cold.

When shooting outdoors, in many cases the best results are achieved using the Daylight or sunlight. They can produce even better results than the Auto setting in shady or cloudy conditions.

Most cameras also have white balance settings for shadows (Shady) or cloudy day (Cloudy), which will add a little warmth to your images.

In some situations this color shift may be excessive. However, it's worth experimenting with your camera to understand how each white balance setting works in different conditions.

For maximum control use customization (Customs Manual) white balance and set the value manually.

Your camera's manual will tell you exactly how to do this, but the basic method involves photographing a white or neutral gray target (a piece of cardboard works well) in the same lighting as your subject, and using that image to set the white balance. . When you photograph the white or gray cardstock again after manually setting the white balance, you should see it become neutral.

If you want, you can use your camera's white balance settings to warm up or cool down your photos. You can try experimenting with a non-neutral calibration target.

2. Sharpness

Most digital cameras allow you to adjust the level of sharpening that is applied to JPEG images as they are processed.

Some photographers suggest that maximum setting- the best option, as this will give the clearest images. Unfortunately, this doesn't always work. Highly contrasting edges, such as a clear horizon, can break off, becoming overly sharp and halo-like.

Application lowest value , on the contrary, can lead to the fact that small parts will look somewhat blurry. However, this usually looks better than overly pointed edges.

The best way to get good results is to apply sharpening carefully, gradually increasing it from image to image until you achieve the perfect result. Or at least use installation in the middle range for most shots.

3. Autofocus

Many photographers allow their cameras automatically set the focus point for faster and more convenient shooting. However, most cameras assume that the main target of the photograph is the closest subject and that it is close to the center of the frame.

Although this allows you to get good results in most cases, if you are shooting someone who is not in the center, and even with big amount objects around, the camera may place accents incorrectly.

The solution is to take control of your AF point selection. So you can place the hotspot in the right place.

Your camera's manual will explain exactly which mode you need to select, but it's usually called either Single point AF, or Select AF.

Once the correct mode is set, use the camera's navigation controls to select the AF point that is on the target subject in the frame.

In some cases, you may find that there is no AF point in line with the desired subject. In such a situation, you should use the technique of focusing and recomposing the frame. To do this, simply select the center AF point (as this is usually the most sensitive) and move the camera so that it is on the subject. Then press the shutter button lightly to allow the camera to focus the lens. Now, keep your finger on the shutter release and compose your shot. When you're happy with the composition, press the shutter button all the way down to take the photo.

4. Flash synchronization

By default, cameras are set to fire the flash at the start of the exposure. This does not pose a problem at fast shutter speeds or when the subject and/or camera are stationary. But with long exposures or with moving subjects, this can lead to strange results.

The problem is that the ghostly, blurry image of the subject is transferred in front of the properly exposed, sharp version. This gives the impression that the object is moving in the opposite direction.

You can easily get out of this situation if you delve into the camera (or flash) menu and turn on the function Second curtain flash synchronization (Rear Sync). This will cause the flash to fire at the end of the exposure. Then the movement of any object will be recorded as a blur behind it, rather than in front of it, which will make the image much more natural and can really emphasize the speed of movement.

5. Long exposure noise reduction

The Noise Reduction feature compares the main image to the black frame and subtracts its noise to produce the final photo. The black frame uses exactly the same exposure time as the main image, but the shutter does not open and the light does not reach the sensor. The idea is to record non-random noise caused by changes in pixel sensitivity and visible at long exposures.

As a result, when using the noise reduction function, it takes almost twice as long to record a photo, which is especially annoying during long exposures. Therefore, many photographers are tempted to disable this feature.

However, the noise reduction results are worth the wait.

Of course, you can do your own black frame extraction using image editing software, but it is still advisable to take at least a few black frames throughout the shoot, as the noise level tends to increase due to the sensor heating up during the shoot. intensive use.

The most reliable approach is to use the camera's built-in noise reduction system.

6. Long shutter speed

Many novice photographers overestimate their ability to hold the camera firmly, and therefore, to shoot well at relatively long shutter speeds.

The general rule for getting sharp images when shooting handheld with a full frame camera is to use a shutter speed of at least one second divided by the focal length of the lens. This means that if you are shooting with a 100mm lens, your shutter speed should be at least 1/100s.

This rule can be adapted to work with DX cameras by taking into account the crop factor (factor of increasing the focal length). For example, a 100mm lens digital cameras SLR-type (in other words, DSLRs) with an APS-C sensor (for example, Canon EOS 700D) has a crop factor of 1.6. Therefore, a shutter speed of at least 1/160 sec will be required to take a sharp photo.

Let me remind you that the shutters of modern cameras use standard shutter speed scale in fractions of a second: for short shutter speeds the numerator is omitted and the shutter speed is described by the denominator: 1/100 → 100; 1/250 → 250 and so on.

Many photographic lenses and some cameras now have built-in image stabilization systems. This allows you to use faster shutter speeds when shooting handheld.

Plus some lenses provide exposure compensation up to 4eV, which allows you to further reduce the shutter speed - from 1/125 to 1/16.

As soon as you got your first professional camera, it seems to you that now you can do everything, and... you start taking photographs in auto mode, sincerely not understanding why the professionals look at you with a grin.

The thing is that the automatic mode, or as it is also called the “green zone,” is one of the top things in the ranking of contempt among professional photographers (after the kit lens, of course). It is considered the “fate of dummies,” a label that turns all photographs into bad taste, no matter how talented they are. And that's why knowledgeable people When buying a camera, first of all, scroll the mode wheel away from the “green zone”. Of course, you shouldn’t indulge the majority, and if you like to shoot in automatic mode, shoot as long as it brings you pleasure. But if you look at it from the other side, there are a lot of disadvantages in auto mode, when photographing in manual mode will give you more both for getting great pictures and for professional growth. Disadvantages of the “green zone”:

1. Lack of RAW in Canon cameras.
2. Often there is no way to correct the exposure.
3. You cannot control the depth of field.
4. In general, all the levers, buttons and knobs become absolutely useless, the camera simply does not earn the money you paid for it.

But if you are just getting acquainted with the art of photography, then starting with auto mode will be useful. And after you learn how to compose a frame, you can go into the settings.

Manually setting up the camera: basic modes

• P– program mode. This mode is almost automatic, since the camera selects the exposure pair (aperture and shutter speed) independently. You can only adjust less significant parameters, such as light sensitivity, jpeg settings, white balance, etc.
• A or Av– aperture priority. Here you can set the aperture value, and the camera itself selects the optimal shutter speed for it according to the data from the exposure meter built into it. This mode is used most often by photographers because it allows full control over depth of field.
• S or TV– shutter priority mode. Here you set the shutter speed that you think is appropriate, and the camera sets the aperture. This mode is quite limited and is usually used when photographing various sporting events, when it is important for the photographer to capture interesting point, and the elaboration of the background fades into the background.
• M– completely manual mode of the camera. Usually it is used only by those who are well versed in photography. All necessary parameters are set manually, various restrictions are removed, and you can set absolutely any aperture and shutter speed at any ISO value. Also, the flash in manual mode can be used by the photographer at his discretion. Any use of flash allows you to achieve various artistic effects in your photographs. In addition, in this mode you can take deliberately overexposed or underexposed photographs, shoot with lenses that were not originally intended for this camera, etc. Using M mode requires the user to have a thorough knowledge of the basics of photography.

Setting up manual mode in the camera: M mode for different types of shooting

1. Settings for portrait photography Manually setting up a DSLR camera for portrait photography is a science. It is important to take into account the lighting and how the light falls on your model's face, based on this, set the main values. For example, when shooting a portrait indoors with windows that create pleasant natural light, you need to open the aperture to maximum (for a “whale” it is f3.5-f5.6, and for a fast lens it is f1.4-f2.8), then you can use it to determine the shutter speed. Shutter speed, depending on natural light and lens, will range from 1/30 to 1/100. It’s best to leave the ISO value minimal – 100 units, so that the image does not lose its quality. These settings rarely result in underexposed frames, but if you do get a dark photo, just turn on the flash and everything will go away. When shooting in cloudy or cloudy weather, there is usually a problem with the exposure of the frame. If you get dark photos, and you didn’t plan for this at all, then increasing the shutter speed to 1/8 - 1/15 will help you; increasing the light sensitivity would also not hurt (200 - 400 units).

Sunny weather at portrait photography It doesn’t always work out that way either. You'll have to fight for shots with minimal shadows! Moreover, by setting the aperture and shutter speed just once, shoot with different angles and you will never get the points. And therefore, throughout the entire photo shoot, you will have to look at the resulting material every time. If your frame is overexposed, we advise you to reduce the ISO value and set the shutter speed a little faster (about 1/800 - 1/1000). It is possible that you will have to close the aperture a little. If it is simply impossible to place the model in the shadows, then use a flash - this way you can even out the light a little.
2. Dynamic scenes in manual mode. Photos that convey the dynamics of movement always look very impressive. Let's say you wanted to feel like a magician and use a camera to stop time and capture the first-class trick of a young and promising skater. To do this, you need to set the following parameters: shutter speed from 1/320, aperture from f4 to f 5.6. Photosensitivity: if there is enough lighting, then 100-200 units, if not, 400 units. If necessary, use a flash - it will add sharpness to the picture.
3. Photograph objects in manual mode in low light Shooting in manual mode is especially important at night. Walking through the city at night, fantastically beautiful fireworks, the romance of the starry sky, a concert of your favorite band - all this requires special camera settings.

• Concerts: ISO 100, shutter speed 1/125, aperture f8.
• Fireworks: ISO 200, shutter speed 1/30, aperture f10.
• Starry sky: ISO 800 – 1600, shutter speed 1/15 – 1/30, aperture at minimum.
• City lights at night: ISO 800, shutter speed 1/10 – 1/15, aperture f2.

Setting the flash in manual mode (M and TV)

The TV/S (shutter priority) and M (full manual mode) modes are simply ideal for convenient use of the flash, because in these modes you can set a fast shutter speed. In manual mode, exposure depends on the shutter speed, aperture, and ISO you set. You need to calculate the amount of light needed to illuminate the subject, and only then adjust the flash. Good workout for the brain, don't you agree? Manual mode will allow you to use a wider amount of flash power than other modes.

It's worth noting that in any shooting mode, you may notice the settings indicator blinking in the viewfinder. This happens when the set parameters cannot “work” with the flash. The main reasons are that the aperture is inaccessible to the lens of your camera or the shutter speed is too short and is not supported by your camera or flash.

Photography in manual mode: so which one should you shoot in?

• Aperture priority (AV) mode – in our opinion, is perfect for everyday shooting. Select the required aperture value (based on what depth of field you want to achieve), and the camera will select the required shutter speed itself.
• Program mode (P) - of course, allows you to change the shutter speed and aperture parameters, but does this exclusively in pairs. When taking the next frame, the values ​​will be set automatically again, and it is possible that you will need to adjust them again.
• Manual mode (M) is great, but very inconvenient because using it requires a large number of various manipulations, and the probability is much greater.

Make sure the exposure matches the scene you are about to capture. If the subject is evenly lit, choose evaluative metering, and if there are objects that contrast with the general background, choose spot or partial. Are there an equal number of dark and bright objects? Select center-weighted metering. There is no perfect “recipe” - experiment and learn from your own experience.

And one more piece of advice. Work in RAW! This way you can increase the likelihood of “saving” images that are successful in composition but have technical problems. Good luck!

For all Canon DSLR users, we have prepared a few tricks, tips and tricks that can help you master your camera better and use it more effectively. The article will be of interest to both beginners and more experienced users.

Any DSLR, regardless of model, is a finely tuned instrument that combines both well-functioning mechanical elements and high-tech electronics.

Most users use only a small part of the functionality of their cameras. Part of the reason for this is the lack of experience of novice photographers or poor knowledge of the capabilities of their DSLR, but in many cases the reason lies in something completely different - in the functionality and control features laid down by the manufacturer.

Sometimes Canon chooses not the most obvious and logical option for grouping camera functions, which makes it unclear to the user how to access them (and even the instructions do not always add clarity to this issue). So, in order to effectively use your Canon DSLR, here's what you need to know:

Select RAW as the image format

There are several image format and quality options available to the DSLR user, but for best results you should always choose RAW (uncompressed or lossless compressed). Images in this format show off a better range of tones and also give you more wiggle room when editing. The choice of this image format is almost always justified.

If you shoot in JPEG, choose the maximum quality

While you should use the RAW format in most cases, there are situations where choosing the highest quality JPEG is a compromise. For example, if you are going to shoot a continuous series of images, select JPEG at maximum quality - this will allow you to extend the camera's shooting time before its buffer fills.

Save space on your memory card if necessary

Selecting the highest quality JPEG can also come in handy if your memory card is low on space because you completely forgot to bring a spare.

Update your camera firmware promptly

Canon continues to improve the reliability and performance of its cameras, even after they leave the factory. That’s why it’s a good idea to regularly monitor the official website for the availability of an updated firmware version for your DSLR. Check in the camera menu which firmware version you are using. Then go to the official Canon website and find the “Support” section and then “ Software" In this section, you can check the relevance of the firmware used in the DSLR and, if necessary, download its update.

Try sRaw format

Many modern Canon DSLRs allow you to shoot not only in JPEG or RAW, but also in sRAW (RAW Size Small, that is, small RAW), which saves space on memory cards. But you have to remember that when shooting in sRAW, the camera uses fewer pixels, so the image file will contain less information than a regular RAW file, and you'll have to accept lower resolution or image quality.

Adjust the viewfinder diopter

We have already written about setting up the viewfinder in the article.

Adjusting the viewfinder to suit your vision will help you see the scene you're shooting in more clearly. For diopter adjustment, use the small wheel in the upper right corner of the viewfinder. Rotate it in one direction or the other to adjust the viewfinder optics.

IMPORTANT! When adjusting the viewfinder, focus on the clarity of the numbers inside the viewfinder, and not on the sharpness of the scene!

Set the Adobe RGB color space

One of the most hidden options in your DSLR menu is Color Space. By default, the color space is set to sRGB, but if you select Adobe RGB, you can capture a wider color range. This allows you to get better results when printing images.

Format/clear card before use

If you are going on a photo walk or just plan to take pictures during the day, then it is better to clear the memory card of the images on it by first copying them to the computer. Naturally, the easiest way is to delete all the images at once, rather than one at a time. To do this, you can use the “Delete All” or “Format” command. The first simply deletes all images (except for files that are protected from deletion), while the second completely deletes all information from the memory card - regardless of whether it is protected from deletion or not.

Do not make noise!

Are you annoyed by the sound of the focus confirmation beep? This option is always enabled by default in the settings of Canon DSLRs. Turn it off so as not to attract unnecessary attention to yourself or scare the inhabitants wildlife, which you are going to shoot.

Reset

If you get too carried away with changing camera settings and want to return to factory settings, then you can use the corresponding menu item to reset all settings. After this, the camera will return to the parameters that were preset in it at the factory. Then you can start experimenting with your DSLR settings over and over again!

Make sure your photos are saved

The “Shoot without a memory card” function is very convenient for demonstrating the camera’s capabilities when purchasing it in a store, but it is extremely harmful when using the camera. Because of it, you can shoot without forgetting to install the memory card, which will lead to the loss of all the captured photos. To avoid this, find the “Shoot without a memory card” function in the menu and disable it.

Experiment with Image Styles

Canon offers many picture styles. The most useful of them is monochrome. It allows you to determine which of your captured images would be good candidates for conversion to monochrome in post-production. In this case, RAW files will contain color images (you don’t forget to shoot in RAW, right?)

Paradoxically, converting a color RAW image to monochrome in post-processing gives much better results than photos taken directly from the camera when shooting in black and white.

Use the Program Shift function

Program mode (P) is actually more useful than many users think. It automatically sets shutter speed and aperture based on lighting conditions and the lens used.

However, in program mode you can do more than just point and shoot - you can change the shutter speed or aperture value, installed by camera. To do this in program mode, you just need to turn the wheel located next to the shutter button. This is very convenient if you want to slightly tweak the parameters that your DSLR automatically selects.

Aperture priority

Aperture priority (AV) mode is a great all-around option for creative photography. You set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode you choose. You set the aperture using the Basic Set, and the camera sets the shutter speed based on the metering mode and Exposure Compensation you set.

Aperture priority mode is also useful for selecting a specific shutter speed. It's very simple: if you want to get the maximum shutter speed, you simply rotate the main dial until you see the desired shutter speed in the viewfinder. This is a much more flexible mode than Shutter Priority, where you set the shutter speed and the camera sets the aperture.

The easiest way to adjust exposure

Your DSLR has many exposure modes and ways to adjust it, but the easiest way to check your exposure, no matter what settings you're using, is to take a photo and then view it on the camera's LCD. The histogram will tell you whether the photo is underexposed or, conversely, overexposed. You can then use to make the next photo lighter or darker. To do this, you need to press the Av +/- button and then rotate the dial located behind the shutter button. Shifting towards “+” makes the image darker, towards “-” it makes it lighter.

Which Exposure Compensation Value Should I Choose?

If the scene (or subject) you are shooting is predominantly dark, the camera will overexpose the photo, so use negative exposure compensation. If the scene is mostly bright, selecting +1 or +2 exposure compensation will give you a more balanced image in terms of exposure.

Partial metering

For shooting subjects located in bright or dark background, you will have to use exposure compensation so as not to get only the silhouette of the subject in the photo. You can also select an exposure metering mode that only meters brightness in the center of the frame. In this way Canon DSLRs is partial exposure metering, and it does the job well in most situations.

A happy day has come and you have purchased a SLR camera. There is a lot of inspiration and plans, but only the power button is familiar. In fact, the camera is quite trainable and anyone can handle it. If you plan to shoot a little more than your friends for avatars, then all roads for learning are open to you. The article will help you understand the terminology and set off on a creative voyage.

First steps

DSLR Photography Basics

We start with simple explanations about taking over your new camera. The right hand should lie on the handle, and the left one below, as if supporting the lens. The position of your hand on the lens allows you to quickly change the zoom if you are using a lens with a variable focal length. Forefinger right hand rests on the shutter button.

How to set up a DSLR camera

For simplicity, we will use the “3 pillars” theory. Only we will put on them not the planet Earth, but a photograph. For a good shot, you need to be able to use each of the “whales”. Let me introduce! Keith number one is the diaphragm. Whale number two - endurance. Whale number three is ISO. And now, in order, about each one.

Diaphragm

Know that photography is drawing with light. And this light penetrates the camera matrix through a hole called the aperture (F). You can adjust its size. Possible options from F-1.2 to F-22 (sometimes higher). The following rule works: the smaller the F number, the larger the hole. It is clear that with a value of F- 2.8, the hole will be larger than with F- 8, which means there will also be more light. As a practical method, it is necessary to set the desired aperture value for a high-quality frame without overexposure.. You need to set the aperture so that the right amount of light enters the camera.

Excerpt

Another tool for controlling light. Shutter speed (t) is the time the aperture is open. It's simple. The longer the hole is open, the more light enters the matrix. Consequently, the lighter the frame turned out.

ISO

These three letters indicate the light sensitivity of your camera's sensor. Photosensitivity is the ability of a matrix to change its parameters under the influence of light. The ISO value can range from 100 to 6400. If you set the ISO to 400, then in this case the matrix will receive less light than in an equal period of time, but at a value of 1600. It would seem that there is no reason to rack your brains - set the ISO higher, and shoot for yourself to your health. Ah, if only everything were so simple... But if you turn up the photosensitivity level too much, noise (grain) will appear in the photo, and if this gave a certain charm to a film photo, then to a digital photo there is nothing particularly aesthetic here . On modern cameras you can set ISO automatically. At first, you can use this option, but as you gain experience, try to set the light sensitivity level yourself, relying on your own knowledge and intuition.

Tip: The main thing is to practice a lot by changing these three camera parameters. Then you will understand what and when to switch.

Shooting modes

If you want to get high-quality photos, forget about modes like “Portrait”, “Landscape”, “Flower” and so on. The camera has 4 main modes, and we’ll talk about them in more detail. Note: camera manufacturers use different designations. The instructions will help you determine which letter indicates a specific mode. This is a very useful book that was sold to you complete with the equipment. We advise you to read it. You will find a lot of useful information.

A (Av) Aperture priority mode

Under such conditions, a person sets the aperture value, and the camera independently selects the shutter speed value.

Aperture is one of the main parameters in the settings and is designated in the camera by the letter F. This shooting mode is suitable for portraits. You open the aperture as much as possible and get beautiful bokeh(Bokeh is an artistic blur of the background).

S (Tv) Shutter priority mode

In this case, the photographer sets the shutter speed, and the camera itself chooses the aperture value. We remember that shutter speed is the time for which the aperture opens to allow light to pass through. Time is measured in fractions (for example, 1/1000 - 0.001 seconds, 1/100 - 0.01 seconds, 1/10 - 0.1 seconds, and so on). If you want to “freeze” an object in motion, you should set a short shutter speed; if, according to an artistic idea, it is necessary to blur an object, for example, water, then increase the time and the moving object will blur.

M Manual mode

This is the mode of independence. You choose your aperture and shutter speed settings. Professional photographers shoot only in manual mode, since the camera is not able to fully understand your idea and implement it. But if you have just started your creative path, practice on modes A and S. Once you gain experience, switch to manual.

And a few more important points that will be useful to you.

Focusing

In photography, its quality is important. One indicator is proper focusing. Focus is the sharpest place in the frame. When you look through the viewfinder, you see the focus points. Depending on the camera model, their number may vary. When you lightly press the shutter button, one (or several, depending on the settings) dots will light up in red. This means that it is in this place in the frame that the focus will work.

It is possible to focus on several points at once, but we recommend choosing one. By big secret we tell you that the central point of focus has the most best quality. Always work with her. But what if the subject is on the side, for example? There is an exit. Focus on the center point and, without releasing the shutter button, line up the desired composition. That is, even if you move the focus but do not release the button, the place where you initially focused will remain sharp.

The lens can focus in automatic and manual mode. It is clear that it is easier to work with automation. If the shooting requires taking pictures quickly, then there is no time to focus. This happens, for example, in reporting work. When 5 frames are taken per second. But for experimentation and to get a good feel for your workhorse, it’s better to use manual focusing. By the way, some cameras only have it. But this is rather an exception.

File type

A photographer can work with two types of files: JPEG and RAW.

JPEG is a compressed file type. Such a photo will be ready for printing directly from the camera and its weight is much less, unlike RAW.

RAW (raw) is a file type that necessarily requires post-processing in special programs. He contains more information about photography, so it weighs a lot more.

If you've just picked up a DSLR camera, it's best to start working with JPEG. Once you have practiced photography, switch to RAW. All professional photographers shoot only in this format, as it allows you to make more corrections without losing image quality.

White balance

This is one of the parameters of the color image temperature transmission method, which determines the correspondence color range Images. Human eye automatically adjusts the white balance, so we perceive the color of the object correctly in any lighting. It doesn't work that way with a camera. He needs a hint as to what type of light you are currently working with. It could be the sun or an incandescent lamp. Then the camera won't lie about the colors.

In the bad case, you will simply end up with a very yellow or very blue photo, which is not a true representation of reality. At the beginning of your journey as a photographer, you can set this parameter to “auto” mode, but it doesn’t always work out right. Therefore, we do not recommend using it all the time; a camera is just a device that can make mistakes and thereby spoil your picture.

Having a DSLR camera opens up a lot of new possibilities for creating high-quality photographs. Become professionals and don't shoot in automatic modes. This is convenient, but then don’t be surprised why the result doesn’t make you happy at all. Why didn't it work out the way you wanted? Once you understand all the settings and learn how to manage them with eyes closed, things will go uphill.

Next you can think about the artistic side of photography. But it shouldn't take you long to find a mode switch or increase the aperture. You risk missing out important point. We hope our answers to the question “How to use a DSLR” will be useful to you.

Many of our readers have already bought or are just planning to buy a SLR camera. It’s so cool to take high-quality photographs, almost like those of professionals. But in order to learn how to take such pictures, you need to know how to set up a SLR camera. This article will help “dummies” in this not entirely simple matter.

Some dummies prefer a simple one - automatic (automatic photography), but from now on we will forget about this function, since the automatic can take away your idea.

Remember, 95% of all great photos are taken in just two shooting modes. I’ll talk about these modes in this one and continue in this article -.

Setting up your DSLR for Dummies

On a sunny day, I decided to take a photo of a cherry blossom branch. The camera was set to automatic mode (as many would do) and ended up taking a photo like this:

It's all because of the automatic mode. He himself chooses which parameters to set. In this photo, the machine closed the aperture to F|16. The machine also increased the ISO to 1000 units, and this on a bright, sunny day.

Important: On a bright day, always useISO no more than 400 units.

In order for the photo to come out interesting, we need to highlight just one cherry branch from the others. To do this, we will proceed as follows.

Let's set the aperture priority mode to Av or, on some cameras, A.

In this mode, we can choose the aperture, but the camera will select the shutter speed itself.

Important: The wider the aperture is open, the shallower the depth of field we will get.

What I've done. I opened the aperture a little. Set the value F|10 and in the end we got the photo (above).

As we can see, the back branches have begun to blur a little. ISO in this case was entrusted to the automation and it chose its value of 400. Which is tolerable.

Let's open the aperture even wider and set ISO 100 units. This is what we get.

In this photo the camera has set the shutter speed to 1\200 seconds.

And finally, I took one more shot with aperture F|4

Here the camera set the shutter speed 1\250 seconds You see, the branch is separated from the background and looks much more beautiful and interesting.

As you can see, using these simple methods of using manual settings, you can achieve much more interesting photos than on the machine.

Conclusion: The camera can only be trusted with one of the parameters, and even then not always. In this case, the camera matched my shutter speed and, in some places, ISO to my aperture. Don't let the camera choose literally all the shooting options for you.