Not far from the city of Perm, near the village of Khokhlovka, in the open air there is the Khokhlovka Museum of the same name - an architectural and ethnographic branch of the Perm Regional Museum.
The location of the Perm region, which is also called the Kama region or the Western Urals, on the geographical border of Europe and Asia determined that Trade routes connecting the East and West ran through this territory. Ancient tribes of Slavs, Turkic and Finno-Ugric peoples settled and lived here. Mounds, burial grounds, settlements and other archaeological monuments of bygone times are evidence of the rich history of the Western Urals.
The cultural traditions of the region are known far beyond its borders, along with its famous natural resources. In 1890, the Ural Society of Natural History Lovers founded a local history museum, which opened to visitors in 1894. The museum has become a kind of center of culture and science in the Perm region. In the second half of the 20th century, work began on organizing a branch of the museum in Khokhlovka - an architectural and ethnographic museum of wooden architecture, which became the first museum of this type in the Urals.
Khokhlovka Museum
The Khokhlovka museum complex occupies more than 40 hectares - it is one of the largest museums in the Kama region. The Varnach Peninsula was chosen as the location for the architectural monuments. Exhibits of wooden architecture blend harmoniously into the surrounding landscape and allow you to enjoy a weekend admiring the combination of natural and man-made masterpieces.
Since 1969, the museum has been collecting wooden buildings from the 17th-19th centuries from all over the Western Urals for several decades.
And in 1980, a fairy-tale village similar to the Berendey kingdom was opened to visitors, where there are churches and a bell tower, a windmill and a fire tower, peasant huts and estates.
Here you can clearly see how our ancestors lived.
The museum complex of wooden architecture unites 23 architectural and historical monuments of several centuries, representing the traditions and culture of the peoples of the Kama region.
Three zones are distinguished on the territory of the museum: Southern Kama region, Northwestern (Komi-Permyak district), Northern Kama region. The separation of sectors was associated with the characteristic features of the architectural traditions of the selected regions of the Kama region.
Each of the wooden buildings was brought from different parts of the Kama region, many of them are at least two centuries old. For example, the Church of the Transfiguration of the early 18th century. was transported from the village of Yanidor, Cherdyn region. The Church of the Mother of God of the late 17th century was moved from the Suksun district to the museum. - from the village of Tokhtarevo, the Bell Tower of the late 18th century. - from the village of Syra, and a watchtower from the 17th century. - from the village of Torgovishche. The fire station from the 30s of the last century was brought from the village of Skobelevka, Perm region.
Main exhibit
The Church of the Virgin Mary is the oldest building. The entrance to the building is preceded by a fairly high staircase leading directly to the second floor. The lower tier was used to store grain and church utensils.
Next to the church, at the highest point of the peninsula, there is a bell tower, which, together with the cross, reaches a height of thirty meters. This is the only wooden bell tower in the Perm region that has survived to this day.
Interiors and exhibitions
Most buildings are open for inspection from the inside (sometimes they can be closed for restoration).
Inside there are stylized interiors of a bygone era.
You can see how the residents of Prikamsk lived in the last century and the century before last, how they managed their household and everyday life, where they prayed, where they worked. Many household items clearly show the level of technology development in those days.
Despite the fairly simple technologies used in the construction of wooden houses in those days, they look quite cozy.
Household utensils, dishes, furniture and clothing are presented to visitors. In this unique museum you can not only look at the exhibits, but also study them in action.
Various festive events are regularly held on the territory of the museum, for example:
- during the New Year and Christmas holidays - New Year's fun
- in February or March - Farewell to Maslenitsa
- in the summer - Trinity and Yablochny Spas
- choir festival “Pevchevskoye Pole Prikamye”
- music festival "Movement"
- ethnofuturistic festival "Kamva"
“Permyak - salty ears”
The salt industrial complex brought to the Khokhlovka Museum from Solikamsk deserves special attention.
Until the 17th century, salt was expensive in Russia, since due to a lack of explored deposits it had to be purchased abroad. And in the Kama region, groundwater, saturated with salt, came directly to the surface. Salt boiling has become the leading industry in the Perm region. But working conditions in such production were very difficult. Salt was everywhere, in the air. Often the workers' ears were even corroded. That's how the saying came about. In the vicinity of Solikamsk and Usolye, even today you can find springs, the banks of which are covered with salt crystals.
Going down to the salt industrial complex, you can’t help but stop at the “Hunting Camp” exposition, which represents the trade of North Prikamsk hunters. The silence and twilight of the forest create an amazing impression, as if you are in the deep taiga. The small house was a refuge for tired hunters; in the half-hut one could make a fire and shelter from the wind, and in a hanging storehouse one could hide supplies from animals.
How to get there
An asphalt road leads to the Museum, so you can get to Khokhlovka either by personal transport or by regular bus. From Perm to the complex it is just over 40 kilometers, which is less than an hour by car.
Regular bus to Khokhlovka No. 340 runs from the central bus station. There is also a transport connection from the Upper Mulls through the Central Market (bus No. 487). The routes do not operate frequently, so it is better to check their departure times in advance.
Permian. Part II. Khokhlovka.Perm is very elongated along the Kama River and therefore getting to the Khokhlovka Architectural and Ethnographic Museum (AEM), located in the suburbs, is not so easy or quick. For about an hour, the bus winds either along the right or left bank of the river so that, having passed the Gaiva district, it ends up on the Ilyinsky tract.
Once you have passed the Perm exit sign, it will be very close to Khokhlovka.
It's very beautiful here in autumn. The forest glows in shades of yellow and red.
The first thing that strikes you is that the name is pronounced like Khokhlovka (with emphasis on the first syllable) and this is very strange and unusual. Although here everything is the same - KIZEL, CHERDYN, etc. Representatives of other regions give themselves away with incorrect pronunciation right away and head on :) For the surroundings, the area at the entrance is fenced with a wall like this.
It costs 100 rubles to enter the territory; filming is free. Those. Of course, they would set a price if they could control it, but in such spaces tourists cannot be subjected to repression.
Story.
The proposal to organize such a museum appeared in 1966 and, after approval by various authorities, in 1969 a collection of huts, estates and industrial buildings began to be slowly collected. It was opened to visitors only in 1980, when the exhibition was prepared (it had to be assembled, brought, repaired, and arranged correctly). Initially there were 12 objects, currently there are 21.
Here is the plan of the museum, the route is laid out in the form of a loop and the visitor is sure to see all the objects.
On September 18, 2010, I happened upon the open day and free admission dedicated to the 30th anniversary of the museum (the official opening actually took place on September 17, 1980, but the current celebration was simply pushed back one day, to the coming Saturday).
The guidebooks say that the infrastructure of the museum is not developed... This is true - there are few souvenirs at the ticket office and nearby, a small rural grocery store, but with toilets everything is just fine (there are many of them throughout the territory). Those. I advise you to take food with you.
The territory is divided into 6 departments. Let's see what's here -
a) Komi-Permyak sector (“North-Western Kama region”).
Object No. 1. Kudymov's estate from the village of Yashkino, Yusvinsky district.
Mid-19th century.
A real estate with a house, a farm yard, a barn, a bathhouse and a glacier. Komi-Permyaks do not decorate their windows with platbands and therefore the windows seem somewhat blind. The entire hut was assembled without a single fastening element (nail or staple) and the joints of the logs were laid with birch bark.
There are all sorts of different utensils inside.
And in the yard there is a sleigh.
Object No. 2. Svetlakov's estate from the village of Dema, Kochevsky district.
1910-1920, i.e. quite late.
Features a grandiose courtyard. The estate of a small artisan-otkhodnik (making millstones) differs significantly from the first purely peasant house.
Object No. 3. The estate of the Bayandin-Batalovs from the village of Dmitrievo, Yusvinsky district.
This is a replica built in 1989(?).
But this is a natural multifunctional wealthy house with a dyeing workshop, a shop and a residential part. The porch is rich, but again there are no platbands.
b) Sector “Northern Kama Region”.
Object No. 4. Church of the Transfiguration from the village. Yanidor, Cherdynsky district.
1702 (!). A unique building that still remembers Peter’s Russia.
A clear and recognizable Northern Russian style, a reference to the architecture of the Arkhangelsk and Vologda regions. This has not been preserved in Komi.
The building has a very high two-meter basement (i.e., the ground floor) and it was installed without a single nail - only grooves and recesses. They dismantled it log by log in Yanidor and assembled it here by 1985.
A simple picture from the life of Ancient Rus'.
Object No. 5. The Vasiliev estate from the village of Gadya, Cherdyn region.
1880s.
A strange structure, essentially two residential huts under one roof. Those. from the entrance to the left is one family, from the entrance to the right is another.
Painted spinning wheels -
There are many more painted things collected inside. The peasants had few resources, but they wanted beauty.
c) Sector “Southern Kama Region”.
Object No. 6. Watchtower of the Torgovishchensky Ostrog from the village. Merchant of Suksun district.
The central carriageway tower of the Torgovishchensky fort (that is, a small fortress with a garrison) was built around the 60s of the 17th century to protect against attacks by the Bashkirs. But it was most useful in 1773 against the Pugachev rebels (and the only one of the entire forts that survived).
Then, of course, it lost its defensive significance and even burned down in 1899, but was independently (!) rebuilt by local residents (by 1905). This hundred-year-old replica is on display in the museum. The very first object that was transported to the future Khokhlovka museum.
Object No. 7. Church of the Mother of God from the village. Tokhtarevo, Suksun district.
1694 (The oldest building of the exposition).
A very intricate building over 20 meters high. The inside is completely empty, unfortunately. No traces of the altar or icons have survived.
Object No. 8. Bell tower from the village. Cheese of the Suksun region.
It can be seen that some of the logs have been replaced. What a pity that wood is such a fragile material.
« “We only export what,” Kantorovich said, “that cannot be preserved in place.” The bell tower, for example, was strongly inclined, and if it had not stood on the Reserve Hill, we would have lost it...»
http://www.vokrugsveta.ru/vs/article/1594/
Without the porch, the building is even more majestic.
Object No. 9. Fire station from the village. Skobelevka, Perm region.
First third of the 20th century.
In light of modern forest fires, it would not be harmful to know how our ancestors solved this problem. Here, for example, is the equipment of a voluntary (!) fire brigade in the village of Skobelevka. The local squad, organized in 1906, numbered 23 people, which is a lot. And this is in addition to an excellent building and fire equipment.
Carts with barrels.
There was also a market there, yes.
The building has been moved only 6 kilometers from its original rural location.
Object No. 10. Igoshev's estate from the village of Gribany, Uinsky district.
Mid-19th century.
d) Sector “Hunting camp”.
The hunting complex is located in a very similar to real wild forest, but all the buildings are built in the present time. According to ancient models, of course, but nevertheless...
Object No. 11. Hunter's hut.
In local languages this hut is called “pyvzen”.
Object No. 12. Canopy with fireplace “Nodya”.
In fact, this is not a rack for drying poles, but a half-hut with a fire under it. It was built anywhere for the night with a slope towards the wind - very convenient.
Object No. 13. Labaz-chamya on one pillar.
This supply barn could well have become the source of rumors about the “hut on chicken legs.”
Object No. 14. Labaz-chamya on two pillars.
Could not be found. It looks like it was taken away for reconstruction or simply removed. same as above, only with two legs :). It looked even more like Baba Yaga's house :)
Having walked a little more along the scary path in the dark forest, we come to an extremely interesting, not natural, nor architectural, but industrial (!) complex.
e) Sector “Salt industrial complex”.
Represented by the structures of the Ryazantsev saltworks of the Ust-Borovsky plant (now part of the city of Solikamsk), illustrating almost from beginning to end the method of extracting table salt. In the 12th-17th centuries, salt was an extremely liquid and highly profitable commodity; people fought and rebelled over it (for example, the Moscow salt riot of 1648). Solikamsk developed intensively at this time.
Technology, by the way, has changed quite a bit, although, of course, there has been much more automation and where there used to be human hands and steam there is now electricity.
But the working conditions in the salt industry of that time were not just difficult, but deadly for health. First of all, clothes. By the end of the working day, she simply stood apart from her owner, soaked in salt. Secondly, completely unregulated weight lifting. The work was piecework, and the more bags (they were carried on the head) your team carried, the more they would pay. People, of course, did not spare themselves, and they were not supposed to rest during loading.
If you worked in a brewhouse, then high temperature and salt fumes were also added.
After working in such conditions for ten years, salt miners, for example, had their skull and spine deformed, the skin behind the ears was eaten away to the point of flesh, and the muscles that lift the eyelids in front of the eyes were destroyed.
There were very exotic professions in this business:
1. “Spinners-drillers” - the mine was drilled by hand and nowhere without professionals.
2. “Stokers” - this is understandable.
3. “Cooks” - those who evaporated the salt and generally monitored the cooking process.
4. “Removers” - removal of the finished product.
5. “Salt carriers” - those who carried bags of salt onto the barge. The most common, unskilled and low-paid labor. Men, women and children were hired.
6. “Salt pickers” - when the salt caked and turned into stone, they were the ones needed.
7. “Cut” - bag counters when loading onto a barge.
8. “Weighers” - it’s also understandable, the product is expensive and cannot be done without strict accounting.
The Ryazantsev saltworks in Ust-Borovaya were founded in 1882 and ceased operations in January 1972 (!) Ie. The museum presents a completely authentic, working system.
Object No. 15. Brine lifting tower.
XIX century Transported to the Ust-Borovsk salt plant from the Ostrovsky plant.
A structure above a salt mine to lift brine from the well. Drilling and developing a brine well was a rather complex process that took from 3 to 5 years. In a day with heavy soils, not even 2 cm could pass. Hollow pine trunks were driven into the mine and initially the salt solution was lifted in buckets, then with the help of a horse, and only then they began to use electric machines. But the museum also displays an archaic manual system.
Object No. 16. Mikhailovsky salt chest.
Inside this seemingly ordinary structure there is a natural “chest” i.e. in this case, a brine storage pool. A wooden vat on the ground floor serves as a reservoir for the subsequent pouring of brine into the brewhouses. It was transported from Solikamsk in 1975 entirely, without disassembling, on a river barge.
« ...First they dragged the hundred-ton chest to the shore. We had to overcome three hundred meters. They dragged carefully, using jacks, various blocks and pulleys. For this purpose, a special pier was built on the bank of the river, in Ust-Borovaya, and a dead anchor was buried. The same thing had to be done at the end of the journey, near the shores of the Reserve Hill. The chest floated three hundred kilometers on a barge down the Kama. In the spring. On big water»
.
http://www.vokrugsveta.ru/vs/article/1594/
Here is a photo from the same magazine “Around the World”. Assembling the brine lifting tower.
Object No. 17. Varnitsa.
The heart of the entire industry is the brewhouse. those. place. where the salt is evaporated from the brine. The process is elementary, but like any craft it has a lot of subtleties and features. The salt was evaporated by lighting a fire under a giant improvised pan...
Brine flows down the gutters...
and, when dry, hardens into white crystals.
Here is a historical photo, everything looked like this.
Object No. 18. Nikolsky salt barn.
A barn is a barn, but its size is amazing. Multi-sectional, with high ceilings and several gates for loading goods onto river barges, it could easily fulfill its role now. Both the size and layout allow it.
Here is the loading complex. Impressive.
The entire complex was specially moved to the shore of the Kama Reservoir in a very beautiful place. Opposite is an absolutely wild rocky shore covered with pine trees.
Kama is very wide here.
The museum's festive events included several singing folk choirs of grandmothers.
f) Sector “Agricultural complex”.
Object No. 19. Windmill from the village of Shikhiri, Ochersky district.
A museum of wooden architecture without a mill is not a museum.
This one was built by the peasant Ratmanov and belonged to his descendants for a long time. a In 1931, in connection with well-known events, she transferred to the “Red Fighter” collective farm. She worked “according to her profile” until 1966.
Object No. 20. A grain storage barn from the village of Khokhlovka (local!), Perm region.
Beginning of the 20th century.
Generally an ordinary warehouse for grain. It was only slightly updated in 1976.
Object number 21 and the last one. Barn with barn from the village. Error in Kudymkar region.I don’t have a photo of the outside, but most of all the building resembles a large barn. In fact, it is not intended for livestock, but for drying, threshing and winnowing grain.
With the help of such a mechanism.
A little more surroundings.
That's it, the exposition is over and it's time for us to leave.
The next post will be dedicated to a walk along the Kama Hydroelectric Power Station dam.
I can’t sit at home, I bought an excursion and went to Khokhlovka yesterday. I’ve already been there several times at different times of the year, but I decided to visit this amazing place again.Sergei Sadov - Tales of the Russian Land
Architectural and Ethnographic Museum "Khokhlovka"- the first open-air museum of wooden architecture in the Urals. The place for it was chosen on the high shore of the Kama Sea on the Khokhlovsky Peninsula, 47 kilometers from Perm near the village of Khokhlovka. The museum complex spreads over an area of 42 hectares. There is water on three sides of the museum complex (Kama Sea, Khokhlovsky Bay, Khokhlovka River).
Now the Khokhlovka Museum unites 23 monuments of wooden architecture from the late 17th to the second half of the 20th centuries, which represent the best examples of traditional and religious architecture of the peoples of the Kama region.
The project involves transporting and installing 30 more objects. The compositional center is the church.Church of the Transfiguration. The village of Yanidor, Cherdyn region, 1707.
The church is elevated to a high basement - a utility floor, in which, according to the stories of old-timers, furs were stored back in the last century. The Church of the Transfiguration is a “ship” type of cell church, that is, all three parts of it are stretched out in one line.
There is a quadrangle in the center. The central part of the monument is completed in a completely unusual way: on the wedge-shaped roof there is a cross-shaped barrel with a head - the only example in Russian wooden architecture that has survived to this day. This is an extremely complex design that required unusually precise markings from the craftsmen. The altar is cut down from the east, and the refectory from the west.
The logs were carefully fitted to each other, so no moss or other insulation was required. Huge, thick trunks are intertwined cleanly and thinly. The light parts of the building - heads, barrels - are covered with wooden scales - a ploughshare. The material for the ploughshare was freshly cut aspen. Over time, dried by the sun and wind, the ploughshare acquired a silvery tint.
The church was cut down without a single nail; everything is held together with grooves and notches.Church of the Virgin Mary. The village of Tokharevo, Suksunsky district, 1694.
A wonderful example of building art, a rare monument of Russian wooden architecture of the late 17th century. The pearl of Prikamsky wooden architecture.
In terms of type, the church belongs to the oldest cellular churches; it has an altar, a refectory and a porch. The five-walled altar is covered with a barrel, above which there is a dome. The domes (central and altar) and the barrel are covered with wooden tiles.
The church is two-story. The basement is very spacious - its height is more than three meters - it was used for storing grain, agricultural tools, and gifts from the church. There was a service on the second floor.Tent bell tower. Village of Syra, Suksun region, 1781
The only surviving wooden tent bell tower in the Perm region. Chopped using the "paw" method in a figure of eight straight from the ground. Above the octagon there is a belfry with nine pillars supporting a tent, steep, high, with carved poles, at the top there is a drum and an onion dome, covered with silver plaits.Watch tower. The village of Torgovishche, Suksun district, 17th century.
Felled in the 60s of the 17th century, the fort served as a stronghold against raids by local tribes. The fort was surrounded by a moat and surrounded by a palisade with eight watchtowers. The central road tower had a gate. This tower was popularly nicknamed “Pugachev’s” - one of Pugachev’s detachments besieged the fort and burned it, but the passing tower survived.Windmill from the village of Shikhari, Ochersky district, 19th century.
Tent mill with rotating head.
The dimensions of the largest face at the base are 3.35 m, the height of the frame is 8.5 m.Salt industrial complex.
The buildings of the complex are one technological cell of the salt plant (Solikamsk, the ancient name of Sol Kamskaya), built in 1882-1888.
The complex consists of a brine lifting tower - photo, salt pan, brewhouse and salt barn.Solenosy (tree).
The owner of the taiga (bear) and the hunter (tree).
“Khokhlovka” surprises not only with its monuments of wooden architecture.
The main secret is the harmony of architecture and nature.Khokhlovka River
Khokhlovsky Bay
Kama Sea.
On the shore of Khokhlovsky Bay.
This is only part of the museum's exhibits. I took a lot of photographs, but I can’t fit all the photos into one post. I put some there so that you know that there is such an open-air museum in the Perm region "Khokhlovka".
Artist: Lyubov Malysheva. Khokhlovka in the spring.Recently I was on the island of Kizhi.
For comparison:
Kizhi Pogost:
Church of the Transfiguration (1714), Church of the Intercession (1764), hipped bell tower (1863)Khokhlovka:
Church of the Transfiguration (1707), Church of the Virgin Mary (1694), hipped bell tower (1781).Perm monuments of folk architecture are more ancient, but in Kizhi there are 22 domes on the Transfiguration Church, and in Perm churches there are only two domes.
There are at least two dozen architectural and ethnographic museums, or museums of wooden architecture, in Russia. Recently, almost all large regions of the forest belt have acquired them. The Perm region was no exception, where an AEM was established back in 1969 and opened in 1981 in the village of Khokhlovka (emphasis on the first syllable - Khokhlovka, and not the more familiar Khokhlovka), 40 km north of Perm along the right (western) bank of the Kama.
In my opinion, despite its very modest size (23 buildings), Khokhlovka is one of the best scansen in Russia. Firstly, there is an extremely interesting selection of objects that give a comprehensive picture of the wooden architecture of the Urals; secondly, Khokhlovka is extremely picturesquely located.
In general, the length of the post is not accidental - I simply could not compress it to adequate size.
Buses go to Khokhlovka from the Perm bus station 4 times a day, the interval is about 4-5 hours - this is more than enough to explore the museum. The bus takes about an hour and a half, and at least half of the time it winds through Perm, passing by the Kama Hydroelectric Power Station.
And in fact, the first exhibit of Khokhlovka is its landscape. The hills of the Urals and the endless expanses of the Kama Reservoir:
Or, as the Permians call it, the Kama Sea:
Khokhlovka is extremely picturesquely set on a narrow cape between two rivers that have turned into bays:
The largest buildings are clearly visible: wooden churches, a bell tower and a fortress tower. Other buildings are hidden by the forest. And along the edges of the cape there are three lighting masts, probably for various festivals that happen here periodically.
The entrance to the museum is decorated very creatively. The ticket costs 100 rubles, photography is free (in the photo there is a spare entrance, the main one is just below):
The tourist bus at the entrance to the museum is not accidental - this place is quite famous, especially among the residents of the Urals. There are many tourists in Khokhlovka - schoolchildren, travelers (mostly from other places in the Urals), and even foreigners, as well as summer residents - from the photographs you can see that the surrounding hills are covered with semi-elite dachas. At the same time, the infrastructure in Khokhlovka is limited to a dirty bus stop (where I almost fell into a cow pat) and a general store. In general, whiners, ah!
The lack of an ethnic restaurant and a forest hotel doesn’t bother me, so let’s start exploring the museum.
Khokhlovka is divided into three sectors: Komi-Permyak (three huts and a threshing floor), northern Prikamye (church, hut and barn), southern Prikamye (about half of the museum), as well as two thematic complexes - a hunting camp and a salt factory. The Komi-Permyak sector is located at the entrance:
Three peasant estates of the 19th century represent a rather strange synthesis of northern and Ural huts. It’s like a Pomeranian type house-yard, but some of the buildings are still separate.
The Komi-Permyaks clearly learned how to build huts from the Russians, although the appearance of the huts is very archaic. The interiors of the rooms are almost the same, only the stove is of a different shape:
But what struck me most were the doors, which were more like hatches in size:
In the first hut (from the village of Yashkino) the interior has been recreated and folk crafts are on display, in the second there is an exposition of nature. The huts are very similar, in the second estate I will show only the black-heated bathhouse:
To the side is the third hut of a wealthy Komi-Permyak peasant, which turned out to be closed:
And a little to the side is a building that from the outside can be mistaken for a utility room, but inside is very interesting - it is a combined threshing floor and barn with an exhibition of the implements of Komi-Permyak peasants:
I will talk about the history of the Komi-Permyaks in posts about Cherdyn - in fact, they are an ancient people who in the Middle Ages had their own state, a vassal state of Rus' - the Great Perm Principality (its capital, also called Cherdyn, is identified with the current village of Pyanteg). The Komi and Komi-Permyaks are very close peoples, with the only difference being that the Komi were baptized peacefully at the end of the 14th century, and the Komi-Permyaks - militarily in the 15-16th centuries. As a result, there are about 330 thousand Komi in Russia, and about 150 thousand Komi-Permyaks. Until recently, there was a Komi-Permyak Autonomous Okrug centered in Kudymkar, now merged with the Perm region (which then became the Perm region).
Between the threshing floor and the rich hut there is another hut from the village of Gadya. This is already a Russian estate, part of the Northern Kama sector:
And a little higher is perhaps the most valuable monument of this museum, the Church of the Transfiguration from the village of Yanidor (Cherdynsky district), cut down in 1707:
It clearly shows the difference between the wooden churches of the Urals and the North - the Ural churches are more massive and look more durable. At the same time, in the North and Central Russia, cell churches of this size were very rarely built. There were no tent churches in the Urals by the beginning of the 20th century, and the Yanidor Church is also unique because of its “christened barrel” under the dome. This detail is typical for Pinega and Mezen, where it was preserved on three churches. Between Mezen and Kama is the Komi Republic, but no churches older than the 19th century have survived there. And in general, we can assume that in the past this form was distributed between Mezen and the Urals.
Empty inside:
Nearby are a classic of the genre: a mill and a barn, although this is the Northern Kama region or the Southern region, I don’t remember:
Above the Yanidor Church is the tower of the Torgovishchensky fort:
The 8-tower fortress was cut down in 1663 and covered the approaches to Kungur, which was then the center of the Southern Kama region. In 1671 and 1708, the Torgovishchensky fort withstood Bashkir raids, and with the loss of defensive functions, it gradually turned from a fortress into a church ensemble:
In fact, it was something unique - a Ural churchyard-tee! After all, such a phenomenon was considered characteristic of the Russian North. In addition to the guard tower, the ensemble included the Church of John the Baptist (1740), the bell tower (1750) and the Church of Zosima and Savvaty Solovetsky (1701) with a unique completion:
In general, this was the best ensemble of wooden churches in the Urals. In 1899, the tower burned down, and the residents themselves erected an exact copy of it in 1905 (which is now in the museum). In 1908, the Church of John the Baptist burned down, and they decided to rebuild it in stone. However, the Revolution happened, the churchyard was abandoned and dilapidated. The Church of Zosima and Savvaty collapsed, the bell tower lost its top, but the tower was removed. In general, one of the most severe losses of wooden architecture.
We rise higher. Panorama of the bay:
And the part of the museum already familiar to us:
At the highest point of Khokhlovka there is a bell tower from the village of Syra (1780) and the Church of the Virgin Mary from the village of Tokhtarevo (1694, the oldest object in the museum):
The bell tower is, in general, almost a standard project; almost the same ones are found in the 16th and 19th centuries from Karelia to Siberia. And the church is an almost exact copy of Yanidorskaya. But Yanidor is in the north of the region, and Tokhtaryovo is in the south, that is, these temples could not be prototypes of each other. Simply the most characteristic form for the Urals.
Inside the church there is also an empty hall and photographs of other Ural wooden churches (in the same Pyanteg), as well as a couple of churches of the North for comparison.
And the plowshare roof of both churches is just like in the North:
View from the church of the Kama Reservoir - an almost seascape:
Another hut from the village of Gribany (Southern Kama region):
With architraves that are most characteristic of the Urals - I saw dozens, if not hundreds, of almost the same ones on this trip:
There is a swing by the porch, on which I, in solitude, swung heartily. Ten meters from the hut is a fire station from the 1930s from the neighboring village of Skobelevka:
Inside there is an exhibition of fire fighting equipment from the 19th century, but my shot turned out poorly.
From the fire station the path leads down, and you don’t even notice how you find yourself in the taiga:
This is a hunting stand, and it is made exceptionally strong. Forest twilight, the smell of pine needles, silence, and probably just a contrast with the sunny and bright territory of the rest of the museum - despite the wooden bridge and figures, you get the feeling that this is really a deep forest, and not a grove of 100x100 meters. There are a total of 4 buildings in the hunting camp:
Hut (these stood in the taiga and everyone could use them):
Overnight shelter:
And a storage shed, that is, a small barn on a leg for protection from animals.
The fourth building is a storage shed on two legs, but neither I nor the other visitors I met in this clearing were able to find it. But I liked this thing - it’s most similar to Shurale (Tatar analogue of Leshy):
And when you leave the taiga, you find yourself near the salt industrial complex. Yes, yes - this is an industrial landscape!
The fact is that salt industry technologies in the Urals have not changed for centuries - the first merchants in the 15th century, the Stroganovs in the 17th, and the last merchants in the 19th received salt in the same way. Although these buildings are a little over 100 years old, exactly the same saltworks were built 500 years ago. One of the salt plants has miraculously survived to this day - the Ust-Borovsk plant on the outskirts of Solikamsk, which has become a museum since 1972 (by the way, the first museum plant in the Urals, and therefore in Russia). These buildings were taken from there, but the ensemble of the plant itself remains in its place (and there will be a separate post about it when we get to Solikamsk).
In Khokhlovka - not an ensemble, but one building of a production cycle. The first is the brine lifting tower:
Permian salt was extracted in wells and boreholes, and the technology for pumping out brine was no different from pumping out oil. Wooden pipe - wellbore:
Another thinner wooden pipe is an in-plant pipeline through which brine was transferred between structures:
The second object is a salt chest, that is, a settling tank where the brine stood for several days until the sand settled::
The chest was brought to Khokhlovka entirely, without disassembly, on a barge along the Kama. If I’m not mistaken, there used to be two stalls in Khokhlovka, but one was returned to Solikamsk to replace the one that burned down there. The wood of the chest is corroded by salt, and at the same time it is salted so that it does not rot. From the salt-working buildings comes a completely indescribable but pleasant smell of salted wood.
Varnitsa is the main link in the salt production cycle. For some reason it was placed between the tower and the chest, but in fact purified brine went there:
Under the brewhouse there was a brick firebox, which consumed up to 10 cubic meters of firewood per day:
On the firebox lay a tsiren, or chren - a giant iron frying pan into which brine was poured. The moisture evaporated, the salt settled. The steam went up a wooden pipe, and the salt workers scooped out the salt with special rakes:
It was a nightmare of work - the temperature in the brewhouses was about 80 degrees, with 100% humidity..
The last link is the barn. Previously, there were two barns in Solikamsk, but in 2003 they burned down. In Khokhlovka, the barn is authentic.
The salt barns were gigantic in size - 50x25x15 meters. The salt was carried over the top via a carriage or ladder (this barn has a ladder in the tower). Salt harvesting is a job no less hellish than a salt maker: for a woman, the norm was a 3-pound bag, for a man, a 5-pound bag (that is, 45 and 65 kg, respectively), and they carried up to a thousand bags a day.
Hence the “Permyak - salty ears” - from sweat, salt settled on the body, corroded the skin, and the back, back of the head, and ears became covered with non-healing scabs. In general, this is now a joke, but before it was about the same as “a black man on a plantation.”
I will tell you more about Perm saltworks in posts about Solikamsk:
Near the saltworks there is an embankment, benches made of three half-logs, a fence and signs “Swimming is prohibited!” Behind the bay there are rocks:
By the way, another “attraction” of Khokhlovka is the signs “Do not walk on the grass! Ticks!” The encephalitis tick is indeed the most dangerous animal in the Urals; here people regularly die from encephalitis. But in Khokhlovka they rather protect the meadows in this way.
URAL FALSE-2010
The Khokhlovka Architectural and Ethnographic Museum is the first open-air museum of wooden architecture in the Urals. The museum began to be created in 1969 and was opened to visitors in September 1980. The museum ensemble is located on the picturesque bank of the Kama River, 43 km away. from Perm near the village. Khokhlovka (Perm region). It includes 23 monuments of wooden architecture from the late 17th to the second half of the 20th centuries, which represent the best examples of traditional and religious architecture of the peoples of the Kama region. Many monuments have ethno-stylized interiors and exhibition complexes. The museum area is divided into several sectors: Northwestern (Komi-Permyak district), Northern and Southern Kama region. Each of these conventional districts of the Kama region is characterized by its own architecture. Public events that have become traditional are held here annually - folk calendar holidays, folk music festivals, military-historical and art festivals. The most popular are Maslenitsa, Trinity, and Apple Savior. Also in Khokhlovka there is a popular Perm festival "KAMVA". Entrance to the museum territory is from 100 to 200 rubles per person. How to get there: By suburban bus No. 340 "Perm-Khokhlovka". The bus runs from the Perm bus station 3-4 times a day.
